Home › Eggs › Cheeses and Cheese Dishes
Cheeses and Cheese Dishes
Take ½ lb. butter, of flour, and of grated Parmesan, or even good common cheese, a little cayenne pepper, and salt. Make this into a paste, and roll out as thin as possible; cut into pieces 4 inches long, and ½ inch. broad.
Bake in a quick oven till a light brown, and serve hot. The same mixture makes "Biscuits Marie Louise," but they are baked in a slow oven. Cheese Batter Puffs. 1½ pt. of milk, 3 ozs. of butter, a pinch of salt, 3 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of grated Parmesan, the batter mixed as in recipe for Batter Puffs (see Sweet Dishes), but a little Parmesan (instead of almonds) cut in dice and put on top. Cheese Biscuits. - "Biscuits Marie Louise," see "Cayenne Cheese." Cheese, Boiled - Miss Byrom's. 4 ozs. cheese, 2 ozs. fresh butter, a tablespoonful of cream. The cheese to be cut in small thin slices and put into a small pan. Set it in an earthenware pan or jar on a slow fire and stir till it melts and till it is quite smooth. Take off the pan. Beat a raw egg, both white and yolk, alone first; then stir it quickly into the mixture, put it into a dish and brown before the fire in a tin oven.
A similar recipe gives same ingredients, specifying "Cheddar" or "Gloucester" cheese to use, and says: "Stir till nearly boiling in a sauté pan, then add the yolk only of 1 egg - stir and turn out on to a hot-water dish. Hand round dry toast in a rack with it." (At Sir Henry Rawlinson's, the stewed cheese came to table in a silver hot-water dish with lighted lamp below so as to keep frizzling hot. A piece of dry toast was placed on each plate, and a spoonful of the stewed cheese poured over it. - C.F.F.) Miss Byrom's recipe for "Dressed Cheese" needs 2 ozs. of Cheddar, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, ½ teacupful of cream and one beaten egg as ingredients, and is to be cooked in "a little pudding dish just large enough to let it rise." This recipe is said to be "excellent if made exactly and smooth, but if carelessly made it may crack." Cheese Bread-crumbs. 1½ lb. grated cheese, and the same of bread - crumbs, 1 pt. of milk and 1 egg. Pour the milk boiling over the crumbs and cheese, pepper and salt to taste. Add the egg, whisked, when the mixture is cold, and bake in the oven. Cheese Canapés. (French Cook. 1888.) Cut bread into oblongs and colour them in butter - tossing them - colour one side only, then mask that side thickly with grated cheese (any sort), a little cayenne also if wished.
Put them back into the sauté pan and let them go into the oven till the cheese begins to melt, when it is ready to serve.
Cheese Canocles. (Mrs. Weston.) (Their usual name is "Coquilles à la Viennoise.") Take nearly 1 pt. of water in a stewpan with 4 oz. of fresh butter, let them boil together, then mix in 6 ozs. of flour, and 6 eggs, with about ¼ lb. of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little mustard, salt and pepper.
Have some boiling water ready, and when all is well mixed, drop in the preparation in balls the size of walnuts, letting them boil for 10 minutes. Drain them on a sieve, and then pile them in a silver soufflé dish.
Pour over them a little brown Spanish sauce (see Sauces for Meat), sprinkle over them some grated Parmesan; put them into the oven to bake for 20 minutes, then glaze them quickly, and put them back into the oven for 10 minutes more to set and become a nice light-brown colour, but not dried up into separate hard balls. Take care they don't scorch or they will be bitter. Serve in a silver soufflé dish. They may be warmed up again in cockle shells for lunch. "Cheese Corks" - Sutherden. (1879.) A kind of "petit choux" batter, egged and fried.
A teacupful of milk and 1 oz. of butter boiled together - add 2 ozs. flour, and stir till it no longer sticks to the pan - then it is cooked enough. Season with a little salt and cayenne and let it cool, then add 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan. Work in gradually first 1 yolk of egg, then a whole egg (yolk and white). Set aside to cool. Shape like corks, egg, bread - crumb and fry. Serve hot.
Cheese Custard. (Kennet and Auchentorlie.) Beat the yolks of 4 eggs well together. Boil 2 ozs. of butter in 1 pt. of milk. Let it partly cool, then add the eggs, also 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, a grain of cayenne and ½ teacupful of cream. Butter a band of paper and put it round the pie - dish used to prevent scorching and running over. Bake from 20 minutes to ½ hour in a quick oven.
Send up to table in its dish.
To show that it is "savoury" you can grate a little cheese over the top and brown with a salamander when it is leaving the kitchen, if liked. Cheese - "Favorites à la Parmesan." (Lady Playfair. 1887.) 2 ozs. Parmesan cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 tablespoonfuls of milk, 4 yolks of egg, and 1 white only.
Flavour to taste with cayenne pepper and salt.
Bake 10 minutes in small patty - pans in a sharp oven; turn out. This glazes over in the oven, has no flour in it, and is a kind of custard. Cheese Fondu. No. 1. Beechwood.
Take ¼ pt. of cream, with 2 ozs. of butter, melted in the cream; boil it a little; take it off the fire, and put in ¼ lb. of grated Cheshire cheese, and the yolks of 4 eggs. Then whip the whites to a strong froth, and mix up lightly. Put it into a paper shape, and bake it about 20 minutes in a quick oven. Send it to table at once, very hot. Cheese Fondu. No. 2. Cataldi's.
Put ½ a tumbler of water into a stewpan, with 1 oz. of butter. Let it boil. Then add a small (wooden) spoonful of flour, 2 spoonfuls the same size of grated Parmesan cheese, and the same of grated Gruyère cheese. Mix these well with the flour, butter &c., until all are well cooked, but especially the flour. Then add the yolks of 4 eggs, and the whites of 2, mixing them well in one after another. Season well with a little salt, pepper and a grate of nutmeg but no mustard at all; 15 minutes before dinner, whip up the whites of 6 eggs, and add to the mixture. Put the fondu in a silver soufflé dish; smooth it and shape it well, and bake it in a gentle oven.
Cheese Fondu. See also Ramequins, No. 1.
Cheese Fritters. ½ pt. of milk or water, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 spoonfuls of flour, well beaten together, add 4 eggs, one at a time, a little pepper, salt and mustard, about 4 ozs. grated Parmesan cheese. Beat all well together and drop in small spoonfuls in boiling lard. Half this quantity will make a dishful.
Cheese - "Fromage à la Sefton." (Mr. Milnes Gaskell. 1887.) 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan; 2 tablespoonfuls of flour; let it cook a little, then add 1½ pt of milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, all to cook again a few minutes. Then add the yolks of 4 eggs, a pinch of salt, and 4 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan. Whip 4 whites of egg stiff, and keep them by themselves to be worked into the mixture the last thing before putting it into a baba mould.
Steam in boiling water till cooked, about 1 hour, then turn out on to a dish and brown in the oven for ¼ hour, first strewing a little more grated Parmesan cheese over it.
It is half cooked by steam and then turned out, that it may not break, as a baked baba is apt to do.
Cheese Pancakes. See Pancakes, No. 2, under Sweet Dishes. Cheese Pastries. (L. Emslie. 1894.) They are round and size of a 5s. piece,* and creamed on the top. ¼ lb. of flour; work into it 3 ozs. of butter (cold of course); a dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan, a pinch of salt, and a grain of cayenne pepper; also the yolk of one egg. Make into paste with a few drops of cold water (as little as possible). Roll out thin and cut with a cutter after pricking it well all over, and bake 15 to 20 minutes according to heat of oven. Do this in the morning. * Roughly a 50p. piece.
In the afternoon, whip up stiff ½ pt. of thick cream. Into it mix 2 teaspoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese and spread a teaspoonful of this cheesed cream on top of each biscuit; then salamander or put in oven. Serve up at once in a circle. Cheese Sandwiches.
Cut some crumb of bread in rounds, toast it, butter the toasted rounds, put grated cheese between each two of them, and heat up in the oven. Another copy says: 2 ozs. grated cheese, 2 ozs. pounded ham, a little made mustard and seasoning and the beaten-up yolk of an egg. The mixture is put between 2 fried croûtons.
Cheese Tartlets "Lady Holland's." See "Talmouses," No. 1. "Coquilles à la Viennoise." See Cheese Canocles.
Cream Cheese. No. 1.
Into 2 breakfastcupfuls of sweet cream stir well 1 teaspoonful of salt. Line a small basin with a piece of soft, clean linen, and pour in the cream. Draw the ends of the linen together and tie, holding the cream up in it, as in a bag; tie tightly with string, and hang the linen in a cool place to drip. When it drips no longer, the cream cheese is ready to turn out on to a clean cloth. Shape to taste; let it stand on ice or in a cool place till wanted.
Cream Cheese. No. 2. "Ingestre." (Lord Derby's recipe.) Hang a quart of thick sweet plain cream in a breakfast napkin till the milk has quite drained from it; then put it in a frame and press it lightly - it is delicious if eaten the same day.
Cream Cheese. No. 3. "Osborne." (1862.) Take 1 pt. of very thick cream, and put it into a fine damask cloth, previously dipped into strong salt water, and tie up.
At the end of 2 hours, turn it into a clean cloth, and repeat the process every 2 hours throughout the day, when the cheese will be ready for use. The cheese will generally be of the right consistency in 12 hours if the cream is thoroughly good and the weather not too warm.
Dressed Cheese. 2 ozs. of cheese dissolved in a wineglass of new milk, either over a slow fire or on the hob of a hot one.
When it has dissolved, add the yolk and white of 1 fresh egg, well beaten; add it slowly, mixing well. Put it on a slow fire till thick as custard. Stir the whole time; season with a little pepper and salt; serve on thin, very hot but not crisp, toast, on a very hot dish. (For another recipe, see Cheese, Boiled.) Hominy Cheese.
Soak a teacupful of hominy in water all night; then cook in milk 6 hours with a pinch of salt, till it is like porridge.
When wanted, add 3 eggs, 2 ozs. fresh butter, and 3 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan. Bake in a pie dish, and cut with a cutter, and serve on a napkin. "Macaroni au gratin." - Cataldi's.
Boil the macaroni thoroughly. Then strain off the water carefully, and return the macaroni to the stewpan with a little butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of Velouté, or of Spanish sauce (see Sauces for Meat), also some grated Parmesan cheese. Season with a grain of cayenne pepper; butter well the bottom of the dish and arrange the macaroni mixture on it, bread - crumb it over and put some small pieces of butter over it here and there, brown it in the oven and serve it hot. Macaroni and Cheese. No. 1. - Mrs. Norman's.
Put 2 ozs. macaroni in boiling veal broth, cook all together, then leave to get cold; serve as follows, adding this source; grated Parmesan cheese on a separate plate. For the Sauce: Take butter the size of a walnut to ½ tablespoonful of flour, mix as for melted butter, but use milk instead of water. Season with mustard, white pepper and salt. At the last add 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese and 2 tablespoonfuls of scalded or Devonshire cream. Heat up the macaroni in a little stock, add and keep all hot in the bain-marie till wanted. If without broth or stock, cook macaroni in briskly boiling water with a little salt and a bit of butter.
Macaroni and Cheese. No. 2. - Mrs. Thomas's.
Throw 2 ozs. of macaroni into boiling water in which is a little salt and a small piece of fresh mutton suet. Cover close to boil in the water about 1 hour, then drain on a sieve and return to the stewpan with white stock or milk to finish cooking, i.e., from 1½ hour to a whole hour.
Melt 2 ozs. of butter in 1½ teacupful of cream with a tablespoonful of flour; when boiling, add this to the macaroni and give it a boil up, then season with a grain of cayenne and some white pepper, and mix in a little cheese and salt. Add, when dished, 1 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese and brown it with a salamander. Macaroni and Parmesan Fritters.
For the pastry use a proportion of 1 lb. of flour to ³¼ lb. of butter rubbed in with a little water. Roll the pastry out 4 times, letting it stand 10 minutes between each time it is rolled.
Take a little of this pastry and roll some grated Parmesan in it, roll it out thin, cut it with a round cutter and put some of the mixture from recipe for Macaroni and Cheese, No. 2 (not salamandered), between 2 of these round pieces of pastry sandwich fashion, pinch the edges together; egg and bread - crumb the "sandwiches" and fry a nice brown in lard, and serve very hot on a napkin. They must be small, moist inside and dry outside; above all not greasy.
Macaroni Pie. (See Meat Pies.) Macaroni Timbales.
The macaroni is blanched, cut in very short pieces, and the moulds lined with it and then they are filled with pounded meat and sauce; steamed 20 minutes; served in white or German sauce. See Sauces for Meat for bottle.
Macaroni with Tomatoes.
Dressed much in the same way as "Macaroni au gratin," only do not mix any cheese with the sauce.
Butter the dish in which it is to go to table and lay the dressed macaroni in it; over it grate a little Parmesan, and over that add a pinch of cayenne; cover all with a sauce of preserved tomatoes and of half-glaze sauce, see Sauces for Meat, in equal parts. Parmesan Biscuits - Thick. 2 ozs. Parmesan cheese grated, ¼ lb. flour, 2 ozs. butter, yolk of 1 egg, a little cayenne and salt.
Mix all together, and cut into any shape you fancy, but they should be ½ in. thick. Bake about 10 minutes, and serve hot.
These will keep in a tin, but when wanted they must be made hot. Parmesan Biscuits - Thin. (J. Emslie. 1886.) This is the same mixture but you use 2 ozs. instead of ¼ lb. flour. Roll out quite thin, cut with a cutter, and bake.
Some like a little cayenne added.
Parmesan Cheese Cake. See Talmouses. No. 2.
Parmesan Cream. See Fish, Game and Savoury Creams.
Parmesan Omelet. See Omelets. "Petits Choux" with Cheese. See "Petits Choux" under Sweet Dishes for recipe. Potted Cheese. (Miss Stovin.) 1 lb. of grated cheese, 3 ozs. of butter and a little mace, cayenne pepper, and a little mustard. Beat well in a mortar; add wine sufficient to make it soft enough to pot. Ramequins. No. 1. (Miss Ewart.) The well - beaten yolks of 4 eggs, ¼ lb. of cheese, grated, a gill of cream, and 1 oz. of oiled butter.
Mix all of these well together and bake in a quick oven in 5 or 6 small paper cases. When the mixture rises, and is brown at the top, it is done enough. The same mixture makes a good fondu.
Ramequins. No. 2. (Cataldi.) Ramequins made of the same mixture as Cheese Fondu (see above), but put into oblong fluted paper cases, for in the round shape the inside does not get enough cooked. They require quick baking in a sharp oven. "Talmouses." No. 1. (Lady Holland, Pinewood. 1878.) Use up any pastry trimmings for the pastry cases, and bake them empty for these cheese tartlets.
For custard to fill them with, take the yolks of 2 eggs, or of 3 if small, to a little cream with milk, in all ½ teacupful at most, salt and a little pepper, and 1 tablespoonful of best Parmesan grated. Mix well and fill the cases, and return to oven for a few minutes just to bake the mixture; pastry must be baked first, or it would be soft, like flannel. "Talmouses." No. 2. Parmesan Cheesecakes.
First have a teacupful of warm water in a little pan. To it add 1 oz. of butter and a little pepper and salt, to boil a minute or two before adding enough flour to make it rather thicker than batter; never stop stirring a minute. It will be cooked enough if, taking a spoon, you can make the mixture come clean away from the sides of the pan. It must then cool a little before working in 2 yolks of egg and a spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, also 2 whites whipped stiff. Fill into baked cases of pastry and bake again. "Talmouses." No. 3. (Mrs. Pellet.) Have ready ¼ lb. puff paste (see Paste and Pastry); also ¼ pt. milk, 2 ozs. flour, 1 oz. butter, 3 ozs. cream curd (14 pt. cream turned by small 1½ teaspoonful of rennet), a little salt, 2 ozs. grated Parmesan, 2 eggs with which to make a batter. For batter put the milk, butter and salt into a stewpan over a slow fire, and add the flour as soon as they begin to simmer. Stir on over the fire 2 or 3 minutes with a wooden spoon; then add the curd from which all moisture must previously have been pressed out with a napkin; after the curd, work in first 1 egg, then a second - this batter must be about the same thickness as for "petits choux." Fold the puff pastry 9 times, and roll it out to ½ inch in thickness; then stamp out 12 circular pieces about 2 inches in diameter, with a tin cutter; place them on a baking sheet 1 inch or so apart from each other; put in the centre of each a good teaspoonful of the batter; wet the edges and turn up the sides so as to make each the shape of a three-cornered hat: egg them over with a paste brush, and bake a light brown; dust them over with grated Parmesan, and serve hot. "Talmouses." No. 4. (Mr. Taton.) Line tartlet pans with puff paste. For the mixture, take 2 ozs. butter, ½ pt milk, 2 spoonfuls flour, and ¼ lb. grated cheese. Mix over the fire till thick; keep on stirring, and when a little cool, add 3 whole eggs (1 at a time) and stir well in. Add salt, pepper, and a little made mustard; fill the tins ³¼ full, and bake 15 or 20 minutes in a rather quick oven.
Toasted Cheese. No. 1. ¹¼ lb. of cheese melted in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream in a stewpan, and seasoned; serve on toast.
Toasted Cheese. No. 2. Miss Byrom's. (1880.) They say the best cheese for this is from Lancashire, on the borders of Cheshire, called "Leck," (spelt "Legh" or "Lough") - failing that, use Cheddar cheese. Cut it in thin slices; add a trifle of mustard, a trifle of pepper, a trifle of butter. Toast before the fire; it does not go into the oven. "Welsh Rarebit." (Mrs. Davidson.) "Gauda" a Dutch cheese cut in slices; put in a pan with a little made mustard and beer; stir all the time it cooks; serve on a hot, well-buttered toast in a very hot dish. (N.B. - For many recipes for plain boiled rice suitable for curries, see Rice, under Vegetable Recipes, and under Sweet Puddings; but one of the best is Rice for Soups or Curry (see Soups). For Chutney recipe see Domestic Recipes end of this section.) Bagshot White Curry. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Boil a chicken or rabbit, putting it on in cold second stock, or in water with vegetables; cover well with the liquor, for it reduces as it cooks; this will make the stock for the curry sauce.
The chicken or rabbit should have all skin taken off before it is warmed up in the curry sauce, as the skin gives a rank taste and oils the sauce; use the prime pieces of meat, and not the drum-sticks, only the best (thigh) part of the legs. For the Curry Sauce: Put into a stewpan a piece of butter the size of a walnut, add a large onion, sliced; just "sweat" the sliced pieces of onion, but do not let them brown, 5 or 6 minutes will do; add next a tablespoonful of flour and let it cook 2 or 3 minutes to a white roux; stir all the time.
Next add a teaspoonful of curry powder and 1½ pt. of the cold white stock made of chicken or rabbit, stir till it boils - about 1½ hour; skim, and pass through a tammy. In another pan have ready 4 large onions cut in dice, draw them down with a small piece of butter; add this to the sauce, and let all again boil up, and skim again. Then add the meat to the sauce to warm through well, and at the last, just in time to blend, add 1½ pt. of scalded cream.
The rice for the curry must be boiled like "Rice for Soup." See Garnishings, under Soups.
If the curry be a brown one, i.e., without cream, then squeeze a little lemon juice over the rice.
Barbadoes Curry. (1891.) Ingredients: 2 lbs. cold meat of any kind chopped fine; 1½ oz. of bread-crumbs soaked in milk, 3 eggs, a little pounded mace, pepper, and salt, 2 large onions fried a light brown, and chopped small; curry powder to taste. Stir the whole for a few minutes over the fire, then bake in a pie-dish. You can flavour the curry with a little chutney and minced apple. Serve rice well boiled and dry, in a separate dish. "Bombay Ducks" or "Bummaloes". (Miss May Frere.) Use the prepared kind sold at Army and Navy Stores, Westminster, to eat with curry. (See Note, end of Fish Recipes.) Toast these dried fish as you would bread, and send them to table hot in a warm napkin - allow one apiece for each person, to put by his plate like a bit of toast, to eat so with his curry, or to crumble over the curry, eating the whole with a spoon. It is nicest hot, but is also eaten cold.
If brought unprepared it means that each fish must be split and soaked before toasting, to draw out the salt.
Chicken Curry. See Rabbit Curry.
Cocoanut for making Curry. "Desiccated" cocoanut is sold in packets for puddings and cakes, and can be used in making curries.
Cold Curry, for Luncheon, as at "Haunted Woodhouselee." (Miss Ann Tytler's recipe.) The day before the luncheon, get a tender, plump, uncooked, young fowl; keep white meat for the curry (prime parts only - no legs, no pinion bits); cut up all the rest to draw for stock, using the feet, neck, skin, bones i.e., everything. Mince a slice of uncooked stock ham and a head of celery; put the bird's carcase, &c., with ham and celery into a stock pan, and add 1 qt. of water. Put pan uncovered on the fire and let it come to the boil, and go on boiling till water is reduced to a teacupful; then strain it off into a cook's basin to get cold, as it must be well skimmed of grease before it is used.
Next mince 1½ a Spanish onion, and fry it in butter, and in 10 minutes add to it an American eating apple and the minced prime parts of the uncooked fowl. Be sure the apple is sweet and full-flavoured, and that there are no hard bits in the meat. Warm a dessertspoonful of curry powder before the fire, and in ½ hour add it and a small teaspoonful of powdered sugar to the onion, apple, and minced chicken. The well-skimmed and strained reduced stock to go over all these. Nov put the lid on, and let all simmer 1½ hour by the side of the fire. Then add a little salt and pepper; pour all into a small hot pudding basin, and, when cold, it will turn out a solid shape, and should have cold dry rice* round it if liked, and sliced cucumber or celery, or beetroot, or salad.
The beetroot may have a very little vinegar in the water it is boiled in, also a few whole black peppercorns, but is of course served as a dry garnish. This curry might be made with a cold boiled chicken, the liquor having been kept and reduced for stock with ham and celery - making the curry as above - but the minced fowl will in that case not require to be re-cooked but only added to the other ingredients in time to put into the dish.
This cold curry shape does if made of veal or rabbit instead of chicken, if the white meat is tender. "Country Captain" Curry.
Joint a cooked fowl. Mix a teaspoonful of curry powder well with a little salt and water; pour it over the fowl, and mix it thoroughly. Put 2 ozs. of butter into a stewpan, with 2 onions sliced fine. Put the onions aside when they have browned, then throw the fowl into the oniony butter, cover the stewpan, and stir the contents now and then, and when the meat looks nice and brown and the butter has quite soaked up, serve with the fried onions added over the meat. Another version says: "Joint a cold fowl, and rub well into the pieces about 1 tablespoonful of curry powder. Slice 2 large onions into a frying pan with some butter *We find, with a similar cold curry, that red or green chilli cut up and placed on the rice is liked. - C.F.F. and a little salt, also the fowl. When the onions are nicely browned the dish is ready." It may be served with rice.
Dry Curry. No. 1. Madras. (Mrs. C. Johnston, Elgin. 1876.) Mutton makes the best curry, but is wasteful, as you must take away all fat, bone, skin, or gristle.
Take 1lb. of mutton, or even of beef, cut in dice or in thin slices, skin and slice some onions. Have, when so prepared, ½ lb. of the onions and meat together and slightly brown it in 2 ozs. of butter; next put all into a clean stewpan, add a small teaspoonful of curry powder and 1/3 teaspoonful of curry paste, some finely-minced apple, and cocoanut also if to be had, and a squeeze of lemon-juice. All to simmer very slowly for at least 3 hours.
Cook the rice separately.
Dry Curry, No. 2, of Uncooked Sole or Chicken. (Mrs. Brandreth. 1879.) Grease a frying pan with butter.
Slice a raw onion thin; mince a raw potato and the red of a raw carrot. Fry the onion in the frying pan and let it brown nicely, adding some curry powder; then put it into a clean stew-pan with the raw vegetables and a boned sole pulled in pieces or some chicken. Let all cook till tender (if fish ½ hour, if chicken 12). It must be dry - i.e., look when turned out much as if "au gratin." Do not add stock to this recipe, its own juices should suffice. Rice is served apart. "Kabobs."
Skewer small button onions upon small silver skewers alternately with pieces of meat cut into squares the same size as the onions. Sprinkle them well with curry powder, fry them in 3 ozs. butter, and when fried quite brown, send them to table with their sauce poured over them.
N.B. - All curry powder must be dried a few minutes before the fire when wanted for cooking. "Kari à la Baboo." (Mrs. Jamieson, Kalkerran. 1887.) This is of vegetables, all cut in one shape and blanched - turnips, celery, carrot, onion, add minced apple too and well boiled chestnuts, soft, not broken. Let all get cold. Then fry in butter, with curry powder, but keep it mild. Serve the curried vegetables in a dish alone.
Serve rice in another dish, well boiled but dry, each grain separate. After draining the rice put it in a meat screen, between two hot plates, till wanted. Hand round thin slices of cold cooked ham with the curry and rice, but all in separate dishes, curry, rice, sliced ham.
Lady Lumsden's Curry. (1880.) Joint a chicken carefully and put the pieces into cold water. Fry thin, long pieces of onion in a good tablespoonful of fresh butter till quite brown. Take the onion out and put aside. Put into the butter 3 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of grated cocoanut, a little stock or milk, pepper and salt. Let all come to the boil several times, when thick add more stock or water and the pieces of chicken, and when the meat is quite tender add the onion, finely minced. Before serving add a little cream. Some people prefer half the quantity of curry powder mentioned. Lobster Curry. (Miss Woollett.) See Appendix as to boiling lobsters.
Shell a large boiled lobster, and put the shell and head aside. Cut the flesh lengthways in little pieces, and mix it with the following curry mixture well pounded: Two teaspoonfuls of coriander, of cummin, of ginger, and of turmeric: 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, some salt and cayenne or, instead of this last, 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, some salt and cayenne or, instead of this last, 2 or 3 chillies shredded fine. Beat the head and shell of the lobster well in a mortar, and add the juice from them to a teaspoonful of water. Mix it and strain and set it aside. Now take 2 ozs. fresh butter, and brown in it 2 tablespoonfuls of sliced onions. Add mushrooms, potatoes, and cucumbers. Stir for 1 minute, then add the lobster meat and the liquor. Mix all well together and cover close to cook. Care must be taken that the vegetables are well done and not burned. Madras Curry. See Dry Curry. No. 1.
The Major's Curry.
Take 1½ a breakfastcupful of good beef stock in a small stewpan and into it stir a good sized piece of butter; when melted, but not hot, add 1 lb. of lean meat cut into nice square slices, 4 large sliced onions, and 6 cloves of garlic.* Cover it up close to stew for 1 hour. Then take a spoonful of curry powder, mix it well with the meat, and let all stew again for 1 hour, stir it frequently. Then add salt and cayenne, or a fresh chilli.
A head of cauliflower or broccoli is considered an improvement, and must be put in time enough to stew thoroughly with the other things. Malay Curry. (Miss Woollett.) Blanch 2 ozs. of almonds; fry them until they are browned but not blackened. Pound them to a cream with an onion, and the rind of a lemon. Cut up a chicken into joints.
Mix a large teaspoonful of turmeric and 1½ a teaspoonful of cayenne in a breakfastcupful of water. Put this with the chicken, almonds, &c., into a stewpan and let it simmer for about 20 minutes; then add a gill of cream. Let it boil up once, and when you dish, add the juice of 1½ a lemon. Miss Ewart's Curry. (Recipe given by an Indian Ayah, translated from the Hindostanee. (sic) "Kaarie" means a stew.) Cut up a chicken and after boiling it in gravy obtained from roasted meat and some water, separate the meat from the soup.
Next take a clean saucepan and melt in it 1 oz. of butter, add a teaspoonful curry powder, put the pan on the fire, add slices of onion and mix well. Then put this curried butter and onion into a pan with the chicken, and stir all till they amalgamate. Put the pan on the fire and let the whole simmer 2 hours, adding the gravy during the process and a little salt and lemon juice. The curry powder should be well cooked.
Rice, plain boiled in water, on a separate dish, a little lemon juice squeezed over it. Miss Woollett's Curry.
Put into a stewpan a piece of butter the size of a walnut; add 1 large onion sliced; fry the onion, and when browned take it out; add to the butter in the stewpan 1 teaspoonful of curry powder, some raw sliced onion, and 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, * 6 cloves of garlic (sic). This is very strong flavouring. Probably "6 cloves (in a muslin bag) OR garlic" was intended. mix it well with a wooden spoon; then add about 4 lbs. of uncooked chicken, or rabbit, or even veal, cut into rather small pieces; next add the fried onion to the meat, a teaspoonful of ground rice, some strong gravy, and a little salt. Stew slowly, or simmer rather, till the meat becomes tender. Any vegetables, such as potatoes or kidney beans, added with the onions improve the stew.
Serve Patna rice boiled in water and well drained, as a wall or border round the curry, with sliced hard-boiled eggs, and the recipe says squeeze a little lemon - juice over the rice when dished. Lemon-juice does best when the curry is one with a brown sauce. You can make this curry of eggs boiled very hard and when quite cold cut in 2, if preferred to meat; in that case omit the hard-boiled eggs on the rice border. Mrs. Coningham's Curry.
Joint a chicken as for a fricassee. Wash it well in several waters and lay all the pieces except the back and giblets in a plate. Sprinkle 3 piled dessertspoonfuls of curry powder and 1 teaspoonful of salt over it, 3 cloves of garlic, dried and finely powdered, 3 ozs. of cocoanut finely pounded, 3 bruised bitter almonds, also 12 pounded sweet almonds, and a saltspoonful of mixed spices.
Sliced and blanch 2 Portugal onions. Put 2 ozs. of clarified butter into a stewpan and when it is boiling hot throw in the sliced onions, 6 whole cardamoms, 6 cloves in muslin and 3 sliced sour apples, pared and cored. Fry all these ingredients in the butter till the onions become a pale yellow colour.
Take out half of these mixed ingredients and set them aside on a plate. Carefully remove the 6 cloves and leave the rest (the half quantity of onion, apple, &c.) in the stewpan. Then put in the prepared fowl, with all the curry powder and spices, &c., belonging to it. Add 2 breakfastcupfuls of water, let the whole simmer slowly, keeping the pan well covered till it is nearly done.
Then add the other half of the onions, apples, &c., (which were banished from the stewpan to the plate) and let all stew again till quite tender. When dishing add the squeeze of a lemon. Serve rice, plain boiled in water, on a separate dish. N.B.
Colonel Coningham says this is the nearest approach to the true curry of Upper India. The apples there would be superseded by native acid fruits; and the Hindus curry only vegetables.
European cooks spoil it by using stock instead of the water always used by the natives.
Mango pickle is eaten with this curry.
Rabbit Curry (Use Chicken if preferred to Rabbit).
Skin, wash and joint 2 young rabbits, put them into a stewpan with 2 sliced onions and 1 oz. fresh butter, cover close - shake the pan over fire till pieces are brown, then turn each piece over to brown the other side. Cover over the white stock and skim carefully when it boils. Then add a piece of lean ham, size of 1½ an egg, a stick of celery, a carrot, a turnip and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover again to boil gently till quite tender. Skim carefully every now and then.
The curry powder (a dessertspoonful) must be mixed in a little cold stock with the same quantity of flour in a little basin.
When the rabbit is tender take it out piece by piece with a fork and put it into a second stewpan; putting the curry mixture into the sauce in the first stewpan to cook about 20 minutes. Add to the sauce 1½ a teacupful of cream and strain all together over or the rabbit, to heat up before serving. If the ham is very good it may be cut in pieces instead of in the lump, to draw down, and then you can add it later to the curry the onions or both. Rice round, the curried meat in centre (see under Garnishings for Soups, "Rice for Soup".) Rabbit Curry. See also Tamarind Curry.
Tamarind Curry of Rabbit. (Mr. Baker. 1891.) Clean 2 rabbits, cut them into small joints and sprinkle over them a handful of flour, mixed with a tablespoonful of curry powder, fry with butter till browned, then put into a stewpan with 1 qt. of good stock, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 2 apples or some rhubarb, salt and the juice of a lemon, let all boil gently for 2 hours, then take the meat out of the gravy and keep both apart.
Have ready in another pan, 4 onions, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, a little chutney, 1 tablespoonful of tamarind sauce, already fried all together to a nice brown colour. Add to this the curried gravy you had set aside, and cook for 1½ hour, pass it all through a hair sieve, then add the joints of rabbit to make hot. Serve the rice apart, please.
This curry is said to improve by keeping it for 3 days and boiling it up every day. Veal Curry. See Miss Woollett's Curry.
Vegetable Curry. (Lady Login.) Take 1 oz. of fresh butter in a small frying-pan, 2 good-sized onions cut very fine, and 1 teaspoonful of curry powder.
Let them fry slowly till the onions are quite done, then - having ready 6 good - sized potatoes and a little of any other vegetable which is at hand, cut in pieces ½ or ³½ inch square put all into the frying-pan. Add a little salt, ground ginger, nutmeg and allspice. Cover the pan and let all fry slowly for ½ hour. White Curry. See Bagshot Curry. (See Sauces for Vegetables for any appropriate sauces not given here; a useful sauce for many vegetables is the one there given as Sauce for Seakale.) For preserving Beans, Beetroot, &c., see Domestic Recipes. Artichokes. See Cauliflower, No. 5.
Artichoke Bottoms. See Tarragon Holland Sauce, under Sauces for Vegetables; see also Stuffings for Artichoke Bottoms, under Stuffings.
Artichokes - Jerusalem Artichokes in White Sauce.
Boil them whole, in 2 parts milk to 1 part water, till quite soft, then drain on a sieve. For the sauce: ¼ oz. of butter to a dessertspoonful of flour, mix well with a spoon over the fire but do not let it brown.
Add a teacupful of milk and a little white stock, also white pepper and a little salt. Artichokes - "Jerusalem Chips."
Clean the artichoke roots, peel them; wash them in water, with a squeeze of lemon juice; dry them well on a cloth, then cut in slices size of 1s., or if you prefer of 1d., and drop them into cold water to keep white; strain them on a sieve; dry in a cloth. Fry in fresh lard to a gold colour like potato chips. Before dishing and when they are still in the frying basket, dust them with salt like whitebait. You can cook salsify this way, but must blanch that first, as it is tougher. Artichokes - Purée. (Cataldi.) Boil the Jerusalem artichokes and pass them through a sieve. Put them into a stewpan, add a little butter amd mix well; add also a little cream. Season them with white pepper and salt and serve very hot. They look like mashed turnip. A purée of Jerusalem artichokes makes a good cutlet sauce. Artichokes - Scalloped.
Get ready 10 roots washed, pared, and sliced; put 2 ozs. butter in a stewpan; add the artichokes and stew till tender; then take them off the stove; mash with a spoon, and season to your taste.
Butter some scallop shells and fill them with the purée; bread-crumb and brown them, like oysters.
Artichokes. (St. Julian's.) The Jerusalem artichokes are boiled first as usual - thoroughly cooked but not broken; dried in a cloth and seasoned with pepper and salt, egged and bread - crumbed as you do fish or cutlets, fried and served in a brown sauce of second stock thickened with flour and butter, and flavoured with mushrooms. You may use white sauce if preferred, but brown looks best.
Asparagus Tips. (Mrs. Wellington. 1880.) Young asparagus tips or "spruce or sprue - peas" (i.e., the soft part next the very points of the sprue asparagus cut in pieces the size of large peas) previously boiled till tender are very nice as a vegetable course if cooked as follows: A small pat of butter to grease the stewpan inside, a teacupful of cream, 4 eggs, and seasoning to taste. Beat with a fork first, then over the stove with a wooden spoon, adding the "spruce peas"; stir on till it thickens, but do not let it set, or it will become asparagus omelet.
Only the round bit of vegetable is used.
Young asparagus tips 1 inch long are excellent boiled and finished off in a little clarified butter or sauce and served alone.
Beans. See French Beans.
Beans - White Haricot, "Haricot blancs."
The secret so little known in England is to soak and cook them without salt; salt makes them hard.
Soak the beans all night in plenty of cold water; then let them boil very slowly 2 or 3 hours till tender. Drain off the water, and warm them up in sauce or gravy, or cook them with milk and 1 oz. of butter; or à la maître d'hôtel with butter, chopped parsley and strained lemon juice. Season to taste.
If served cold, add a little vinegar and a teaspoonful of sugar. Salt must not be used till the beans are quite cooked. [The above is Miss Pace's recipe from a Yorkshire cook, 1876.] Beetroot - to Boil. (Ballater Manse. 1879.) Wash the beetroot with care lest the skin should break, then plunge it into boiling water. It is boiled enough when the skin will come off if touched. Take it out and let it stand till cold. Then skin it, cut it in slices and pour vinegar over it, and leave it to stand 12 hours; it will sop up the vinegar.
This recipe is not to keep, but for immediate use.
Beetroot with Potato as a Cairnton, good for Luncheon with Cold Meat. (Mrs. Burnett. 1880.) Have 2 or 3 well-boiled young beetroots - cold, and cut in slices; next peel and slice 2 small onions, and fry them in a pan with a little fresh butter, but do not let them brown. To a teaspoonful of flour add cream enough to make it a nice sauce; add to this salt, pepper, and white powdered sugar to your taste, and a tablespoonful of Tarragon vinegar; cook the sauce for a few minutes, and then warm up the beetroot in it. Have ready a wall of mashed potatoes, and put the vegetable and sauce in the centre. Serve hot.
Broad Beans.
If the beans are young, boil them in salt and water till tender, and serve with parsley and butter. But if the beans are old half boil them and peel off the husks; then put them into a stewpan with a spoonful of white stock. Cover and set by a slow fire till finished. Dish as a fricassée with Béchamel sauce.
For another way to cook broad beans, see French Beans, No. 3, "Haricots de Wenlock."
Brussels Sprouts. No. 1.
Brussels sprouts must be sprinkled with salt and lie in cold water; then wash them in 2 or 3 waters and plunge them in boiling water in which is a little salt. Drain on a sieve and return into the empty stewpan to finish in a little stock with a tiny bit of butter and pepper and salt.
Brussels Sprouts. No. 2. (Isa. Emslie's. 1894.) Unlike other cooks, Emslie says: Never use soda for Brussels sprouts, but cook as follows:
Take off the outer leaves and plunge the sprouts into plenty of boiling water which has a little salt in it; boil 10 minutes. Then take them out and drain them on a sieve, and put into fresh boiling water for 5 minutes more. Then on sieve, press out all the water, and keep them hot on the same sieve, in the meat screen, with a dry warm kitchen cloth laid over them till wanted.
Serve quite dry and very hot. If liked, have a little clarified butter poured over them when dished, or a little nice white sauce.
If tossed in the butter they often "catch," or get hard. Brussels Sprouts. No. 3. (Cataldi's.) Boil the Brussels sprouts, drain them on a sieve, squeeze them, chop them, and put them aside on a dish till required. Chop up half a shallot. Put 1 to 2 ozs. of butter, according to the size of the dish, in a frying pan, and when the butter has melted, add the shallot, and let it fry for 2 minutes or so, but not brown too much. Then add the Brussels sprouts and let them warm thoroughly, season with pepper and salt, and serve up hot. Add a squeeze of lemon juice when dished.
Turnip tops, greens, or cabbage can also be cooked according to this recipe. If you use turnip tops give them a squeeze of lemon as you do Brussels sprouts - - but not to the other vegetables.
Cabbage. See also Kolcannon, and Brussels Sprouts No. 3. Cabbage. No. 1. Cabbage and Bacon. (Grüber, Aboyne Castle. 1883.) This is excellent. - J. F. C. 3 Savoy cabbages are each cut in half, and boiled in salt and water for 1½ hour. They are then taken out and refreshed in cold water and allowed to drain on a sieve. You then line the bottom of a flat pan with thin layers of bacon, and on these place the cabbage, and, after seasoning with salt, pepper, cloves, and spice, just cover them with stock, and then add a layer of bacon again. Leave all to simmer about 1½ hours, the lid being on the pan, at the end of which time the liquor will be absorbed by the cabbage. Take out the spices before you dish, but serve the bacon with the cabbage. Cabbage. No. 2. "Au Jus." (Cataldi's.) Divide some Savoy cabbages in halves or quarters, according to their size. Blanch them and squeeze the water well out, but without breaking them. Have a stewpan ready, lined at the bottom with slices of bacon, sliced onion and sliced carrot, 1 bay-leaf, parsley and thyme.
Trim the cabbages before putting them into the stewpan, and, when they are in, season them with salt and pepper, and pour in stock to the depth of an inch. Let them stew as long as they may require. ¼ hour before serving, glaze them with a glaze brush as they lie in the stewpan, then put the pan into the oven, that the glaze may set.
Dish them merely in the stock and without the herbs, carrots and onions. Lettuce can be cooked the same way, and if very small, may be sent up whole. They are called "Laitues au jus."
Cabbage. No. 3. "Braganza Cabbage."
Put a Braganza cabbage on with boiling water, salt, and a little soda (this for the colour), to boil from 20 to 30 minutes; cooked like the ordinary cabbage, but served like seakale, for it is the ribs you eat.
Cabbage. No. 4. Dressed with Parmesan.
Savoys answer best-boil them thoroughly, then drain on a sieve and trim them and put a little grated Parmesan cheese and some peppercorns and seasoning inside them. Put them in a clean stewpan with a thin slice of bacon on each piece of cabbage, each cabbage being cut in half or quarter. Half cover with stock and put in the oven for about 10 minutes. Serve with the stock, but without the bacon. Cabbage. No. 5. Red Cabbage stewed, with Sausages.
Cut up a red cabbage as for pickling. Put into a stewpan a little white stock, and an equal quantity of vinegar, and when it boils add the cabbage, to boil till tender; then season and serve under the sausages.
Carrots. No. 1. (Madame de Bunsen.) Parboil the carrots; freshen in cold water and drain dry. Cut into round slices 14 inch thick - as cucumber is cut. Throw the slices into a stewpan with a little butter and salt, pepper also if wished; add a little scalded parsley, chopped fine. Shake the stewpan over the fire till the carrots are enough cooked. Serve hot. Carrots. No. 2. Carrots and Spinach, a "Vegetable Chartreuse." (Mrs. Dick.) A plain, well-greased mould lined with previously well-cooked, sliced carrot. The inside filled with well - boiled chopped or mashed carrot (one-third) and spinach (twothirds) or minced greens; a little onion or shallot to flavour, seasoning, butter, cream and stock, all mixed and made hot.
Fill the mould and steam it 1 hour in the bain-marie or in a saucepan. Turn it out, taking care it does not break in turning out, and hand with the roast joint, when you hand the potatoes.
A good but homely dish.
Carrots. No. 3. Carrots and Turnips. See Invalid Cookery. Carrots. No. 4. "À la Flamande."
Choose small French carrots all of a size, trim them if not shapely - wash and clean them - then put them on in fresh water and let them blanch by coming to the boil; when blanched, take them off and put them in cold water and stir them. Put them back into the stewpan with a little butter and sugar - pour some good stock over them and let them simmer slowly 5 or 6 hours,* for if done quickly they will get hard; add a little finely chopped parsley and melted butter when about to serve up. Carrots. No. 5. "À la Maître d'Hôtel." (Cataldi.) The carrots should be young and tender, like French carrots; shape them, blanch them, strain them, and put them in a stewpan on the fire; add some Béchamel sauce (see Sauces for Meat), a little chopped parsley squeezed in a cloth, a little butter and some lemon juice; season and serve.
Carrots. No. 6. “À la Poulette." (Cataldi) are almost the same as "Maître d'Hôtel" carrots, but you omit the parsley, and give a double portion of Béchamel sauce. Carrots. No. 7. "Apponyi Carrots." (Mrs. Bate.) An admirable recipe.
Wash a good many carrots thoroughly, then cut up the red part only in Julienne needle shapes, prepare about ½ lb. so; mince 1 Spanish onion or 2 small ones - the fragments of onion must not show, but add greatly to the flavour - wash all again and put on the fire with enough second stock to cover them, then put the lid on the pot; it must come to the boil and then be drawn to one side to simmer till quite tender, keep the lid still on the pan between your "stirs"; ½ hour before dishing up, powder with a dessertspoonful of sugar now keep it uncovered to reduce - the carrots should be quite soft, moist but not sloshy.
Should you have no second stock, cook them with water and 1 oz. of butter till tender. ½ hour before dishing, drain and put on again, adding a dessertspoonful of glaze, and the same of sugar. Leave it uncovered to simmer - stir now and again and serve.
Be sure the onion is minced so as to flavour without showing, for if in long strings guests wonder what they are!
Carrots. No. 8. Minced. (Mrs. Evans.) Clean the carrots, and boil them thoroughly, then drain them and mince them fine; warm a little cream in a stewpan, and if you find it is thin, melt a little butter into it for a large dish ½ teacupful of thin cream and 1 oz. of butter - but of course, thick cream and no butter is better. Season with pepper and salt; add the carrots to heat up, and serve very hot, but do not let the cream boil. Take care the minced carrots are not sloshy; the cream must be blended and the carrots soft. Carrots. No. 9. Old Carrots. (J. Emslie. 1888.) If the carrots are very old, cut them into Julienne shapes and first blanch, and then strain them, and cover at once with stock and 4 lumps of sugar. They should boil 2 hours, covered (but stirred), then add onion fried in butter and reduce till all but dry. Carrots. No. 10. Carrots with Onions, "Carottes à l'Oignon." (Bate.) Cut carrots in slips like needles, as for Julienne soup onions also. The onion slips are first fried in a little fresh butter; then the carrots are added - about four times as many as are apparently wanted, for they shrink beyond belief! - powder them over with sugar; when reduced to half, finish off in stock; serve moist, but not too moist. They must be soft. * An experienced cook says 1 or 2 hours should be sufficient. Carrots. No. 11. Young Carrots. (Isa. Emslie. 1891.) Pop the carrots into boiling water with 1½ oz. butter and a pinch of salt; cover with lid, boil 1 hour; drain and simmer without lid 1 hour in second stock; stir, and watch; drain again and toss up in ½ oz. butter and a nip of green parsley, add a few cloves, and the juice of 1 lemon at the last.
Or you may cut them in long strips, simmer in white stock, add cream, butter, sugar, and salt. Serve in white sauce.
Peel young carrots by rubbing with a damp cloth. All carrots may be boiled in broth, or with meat. "Carrottes à l'Oignon." See Carrots, No. 10.
Cauliflower. No. 1. "Choufleur au Beurre."
This is done in the same way as "Choufleur au Jus," but has French melted butter over it instead of gravy.
Cauliflower No. 2. "Choufleur au Gratin." (New Lodge.) Boil the cauliflower in the usual way and drain well. Meanwhile, grate some breadcrumbs, and pass through a sieve, put them on to cook with 2 or 3 little bits of butter, and stir till they are dry and gold-coloured, then dry them again on the sieve. For Sauce: To make the white sauce for them, take a little butter and melt it, then mix in it, over the fire, a dessertspoonful of flour; stir 3 minutes, add ½ pt. of milk, ½ pt. of cream, a dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan, and a little white pepper and salt. Put the cauliflower on a dish that can stand the heat of the oven. Mask the vegetable well first with the white sauce, and that again with the crumbs, and then heat through in the oven and serve.
Cauliflower No. 3. "Choufleur au Jus." (Cataldi.) Blanch the cauliflowers, drain them, force their heads into a basin and press them. Put the basin into the bain - marie to keep warm till required. When turned out of the basin and put on a very hot dish to send to table, pour over them a little gravy or sauce (half-glaze is the best). Cauliflower. No. 4. With Cheese. "Chouxfleurs au Parmesan." (Cataldi.) Blanch the cauliflowers in salt and water in the usual way; set them on a sieve to draw off all the water; take a small basin and force the heads in, pressing them; add also a very little grated Parmesan cheese.
Butter the bottom of the dish in which the cauliflower is to be served, turn the vegetable out on to it, add a little pepper and salt, pour over it some Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), and grate Parmesan cheese over all. Put little bits of butter over it here and there, about 1¼ oz. in all, and bake in the oven. When you have only a few small cauliflowers, blanch them in salt and water as above; drain well on a sieve before the fire, put some little bits of butter over them, season with salt and pepper, grate plenty of Parmesan over them, and brown in the oven. N.B. - Some people who are very fond of cheese put grated Parmesan between each cauliflower, but the usual way is not to put the cheese till the last, and then over all. Cauliflower. No. 5.
Blanch the vegetables in water and a little vinegar, then strain them and cut in pieces; next, pickle them by setting them on a plate in oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, letting them soak 15 minutes, and turning them; take them out, fry them in butter, and dry well in a cloth before serving them up.
You can cook salsify or Jerusalem artichokes in the same way, but the latter must be very young and cut into quarters.
Cauliflower. No. 6. With White Sauce.
Pick out all the green leaves of 2 small cauliflowers, and cut off the stalks close; put them head downwards in a saucepan full of salted boiling water; when done, pick them into sprigs and arrange them, head downwards, in a pudding basin which must first be made quite hot, press them in gently, then turn them out dexterously, on a dish, and pour over them the following previously prepared sauce, boiling hot: For Sauce: Melt 1½ ozs. butter in a saucepan, mix it with a tablespoonful of flour, and then add ½ pt. of boiling water stirred till it thickens, add salt and white pepper to taste; then take the saucepan off the fire and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with the juice of a lemon, and strained.
Cauliflowers are also good with Dutch Sauce, No. 1 (see Sauces for Fish). Celery.
Clear the celery well from grit, and boil it in salt and water, till tender. Strain off all the water and put the celery into a stewpan with some good brown stock or Béchamel sauce (see Sauces for Poultry).
Celery. "Céleri au Jus." (Cataldi.) The celery must first be blanched, then braised in stock, divided and trimmed. Serve it with a sauce of half-glaze, see Sauces for Meat.
Mrs. Jamieson cuts up the celery in 1½ or 2 ins. lengths and stews it in milk or else braises it in stock for centre of "cutlets" or chicken, veal, or rabbit. Chicory.* See Endive, see also Lettuce - Minced, and Spinach, Swiss way. "Chouxfleurs au Beurre," "au Gratin," " au Jus," "au Parmesan." See Cauliflower. Cucumber. No 1. For Centre of Veal Cutlets.
Cut the cucumber in pieces, pop it into boiling water and half cook it; then take it out and drain it.
Put a bit of butter in a stewpan with a spoonful of sugar and 1 of French vinegar, melt and mix, and then add the cucumber to it. Sauté it as it melts, to glaze the vegetable. The cucumber must be tender but the pieces unbroken.
Cucumber. No. 2. Cucumber Rings, Stuffed. (Bate.) These look like patties.
Peel the cucumber and cut it across in pieces about 2 ins. thick; take out the seeds so that each slice is a ring. Have water ready boiling with salt in it, and in it blanch the cucumber rings for about 5 minutes; take out the cucumber rings, drain them, and put aside.
Scrape a little bacon fat and fry the following ingredients in it all mixed together: a little chopped onion, ham, and parsley-leaf, this latter well squeezed in a cloth, as its juice is bitter, also a little grated Parmesan cheese; stir all the time in an uncovered pan or it will burn, and as you stir, add 2 tablespoonfuls of good brown stock and the yolks of 2 eggs with pepper and salt. * What we call chicory the French call Endive Belge, and the crinkly leaves we call endive the French call "chicorée." The white very curly endive is used for salad, the green generally for boiling. Set the cucumber rings in a sauté pan and fill them with the warm mixture, first covering the bottom of the pan with stock.
Put the sauté pan for 1½ hour, in a moderate oven, glaze the tops of the stuffed cucumber rings, and serve with white or brown sauce. Cucumber. No. 3. Stuffed and Stewed. (Beechwood.) Choose a large cucumber, peel it, cut one end only and from it scoop out all the seeds, fill it with forcemeat or patty meat, and put a carrot stopper at the open end. Stew it in good gravy very slowly, or it will break. About 2 hour will do. Cucumber. No. 4. Stewed.
Peel, and cut the cucumbers in half, lengthways. Boil them in venegar and water they must not be too soft. For the Sauce: Take seeds and trimmings of cucumbers, put them into a stewpan with a little broth, 2 shallots, and 2 spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil soft, pass through the tammy, thicken with a little roux, be very careful there are no lumps, and return to the stewpan. Or, you may add the roux before you pass the sauce through the tammy, taking care it is not too thick.
Season with pepper.
Cucumber. No. 5. (Mrs. Dick.) Take one large one, cut it in three, peel and quarter it lengthways, take out the seeds. Lay it in cold water in which is a pinch of salt and a little vinegar and leave it, quite covered by the liquor, for 2 hours. Then take it out and drain and stew till tender in a very little weak stock. Take this stock and add a little glaze to it, reduce and skim and serve with the cucumber.
Vegetable marrow can be done the same way, but you use no vinegar. Cucumber may also be cut in lengths and blanched, drained, then added to little dice-shaped bits of onion frying in a little butter and sugar; pepper and serve up rather dry.
Endive. See footnote to Chicory.
Endive. No. 1. "Chicorée au Jus." (Cataldi.) Blanch the chicory, dry it well with a cloth and chop it fine. Then put it in a stewpan with a little half-glaze or good stock and a little butter. Season and serve. "Chicorée à la Crème" is the same as "Chicorée au Jus," only instead of half- glaze, you add a little cream and a little Béchamel sauce. Spinach "Epinards au Jus" is done this way.
Endive. No. 2. A useful Winter Dish.
Pick off the outer leaves, leaving only the white. Trim the roots and wash the endive in several waters, carefully removing any insects that may be concealed in the folds of the leaves.
Put a large stewpan, half filled with water, on a brisk fire; when it boils, throw in the vegetables with a handful of salt; let the water boil fast till the endive is quite tender, then drain it in a colander and squeeze all the water out thoroughly. Next, cut off the root of each endive and most carefully look through the leaves, as insects will lurk. Then chop the leaves fine and pass them through a coarse wire sieve. Next put it in stewpan with 2 ozs. fresh butter, some salt, white pepper and a grate of nutmeg. Place the pan on the fire for 10 minutes. You may then finish in either of the following ways: (a) Stir, and add ½ gill of cream, a spoonful of white sauce and a dessertspoonful of sugar. Reduce the endive on a slow fire, and when you dish, garnish with "fleurons," i.e., sippets, of puff-paste (see Paste and Pastry). Or (b) as directed by Madame Van de Weyer's chef, New Lodge: Add a little of the strong beef gravy which collects in the dripping pan under the dripping, and also some white sauce (Béchamel - see Sauces for Poultry).
If to be eaten alone, as a separate course, the chef serves triangular crusts, fried in butter, round it. "Épinards au Jus." Spinach - see Endive, No. 1, for recipe. French Beans. No. 1. "Haricots Verts à la Crème."
Cut young kidney beans small and with care; throw them into boiling water with a little salt, 1 onion and a little fresh parsley. When thoroughly boiled, drain them from the water, and toss them in a pan with a little fresh butter; sprinkle a little flour over them, and, just before taking them off the fire, add a little cream to heat through but not to boil.
French Beans. No. 2. "Haricots Verts à la hâte." 1½ or 2 lbs. of fresh French beans, "strung," and cut into dice. Wash them in cold water and put them in a stewpan in plenty of boiling water with a little salt and a tiny piece of soda. Boil them quickly for 15 minutes and strain them off. Take a large onion, chop it up fine, blanch and strain it off. Then put it in a sauté pan with 2 ozs. fresh butter warmed, a chopped bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Fry for 15 minutes without discolouring. Add a tablespoonful of Tarragon vinegar to the same of white wine, ¼ pt. of cream, and 1 oz. of butter mixed smooth with 1 oz. of flour. Stir all this till it boils, then add the cooked French beans.
Serve on a hot dish and scatter them over with cooked livers of game or fowl rubbed through a sieve and warmed up between two plates over hot water. French Beans. No. 3. "Haricots de Wenlock."
These are the beans of "scarlet runners" when the pods are too tough to cut up as French beans; peel them and boil, gently and thoroughly, in meat stock, then serve in a dish with Dutch sauce. The beans should be about the size of a broad bean. Broad beans are also very good cooked in the same way. French Beans. No. 4. Tinned. (1887.) Two ways of cooking. (a) First soak tinned beans in cold water, and drain and slice them; set enough water on to boil to cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt, and a hazel nut of butter; when the water boils briskly, drop in the sliced beans they will probably require 1½ hours' brisk boiling; drain, and sauté in a little clarified butter. (b) Set on water to boil briskly, add a little salt. "String" the beans (i.e., cut off stringy part) and throw them in to cook thoroughly from 5 to 15 minutes. Drain them on a sieve. Finish them in 2 ozs. of clarified butter or in a little good white sauce. If the latter, it is called "à la crème." "Gâteau de Pommes de terre." See "Pommes de terre à la Marquise." Greens - Minced.
First lay the greens for 1 hour in cold water with about 3 spoonfuls of salt; rinse them in that water; then rinse them a second time for a moment under the tap. Put into boiling water with salt and soda, boil until tender, then drain on a colander and squeeze off the water. Pass through a wire sieve into a stewpan, add ½ oz. of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or of milk, a little pepper and salt to season. Heat them. Let all mix well and serve very hot.
Greens. See Brussels Sprouts No. 3, also Kolcannon, and Lettuce - Minced, etc. "Haricots Verts à la Crème," "Haricots Verts à la hâte," "Haricots Verts à la Maître d'Hôtel," "Haricots de Wenlock." See French Beans.
Kail. "Sir John's Luncheon Kail." (Isabella Emslie.) Take a sieveful of kail, carefully wash it, pick leaves from the stalks and throw the leaves into briskly boiling water in which is a little salt, to boil till tender, then drain and press them and put through a sieve.
Put the kail on again with a little bit of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of stock, a little pepper and salt. Mix all, and reduce it to a proper consistency. Serve very hot as a vegetable to eat with brown meat. A similar recipe but without butter, stock, or pepper concludes: "The Scotch add a dust of oatmeal, or eat kail with a spoon and a piece of oatcake with it." Kidney Beans. See French Beans, No. 3.
Kolcannon. (Mrs. Thomas.) If you make it with carrots use only the red part of the carrots (the yellow part is too sweet, especially when they are old); boil, drain, and pass it through a sieve. Have ready some nicely mashed potatoes, and work carrots and potatoes well together with a spoon, keeping them warm over the hot plate all the time. Season with pepper and salt, and add a little cream when nearly done. Spinach, washed first in 2 or 3 waters, and potatoes are best of all for kolcannon; spinach and carrots are also good, or a nice cabbage boiled as usual, mashed with potatoes.
The following kolcannon of greens is good: 1 oz. butter in a stewpan, and half an onion chopped. Fry a few minutes. Boil some greens and chop them fine; then take an equal quantity of mashed potatoes; mix all together, and season.
Make it hot, put it into a shape, and turn out. "Laitue." See Lettuce.
Leeks.
Two ways to cook them. (a) Leeks are best after frost; they should be trimmed, the green part removed, and the leeks then blanched and stewed till tender in stock with a little bit of ham, or lean bacon, but the ham, which is only to flavour, is not sent to table. (b) When vegetables are scarce in spring, and young leeks tender and in season, they are nice as vegetables if well blanched and cut in lengths and cooked in mutton broth stock, thickened with barley purée.
Lettuce.
It takes a great many cooked lettuces to make a dish. Clean them and pick off any soiled leaves.
Blanch them 10 minutes with a pinch of soda in boiling salt and water. Drain them on a sieve, then pass through a coarse wire sieve.
Warm up in a little cream with a bit of butter and a little salt, a lump of sugar and a grate of nutmeg; reduce to a purée.
Lettuce "Laitue au Jus." These are lettuces cooked like Cabbage, No. 2. Lettuce - Minced. 6 lettuces make a good dish. Pick, as you would spinach, not using outer leaves or stem. Wash and clean the lettuces in cold water and salt. Then boil them to be as green as possible in more salt and water; then pump cold water over them till they are cold. Put them to drain on a sieve and put a plate over them with weights in it to squeeze and dry them. Then pass them through a sieve into a stewpan, add 1 oz. fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, and a teaspoonful of flour or glaze, and add a dust of white sugar. Stir all well till cooked and season with a little pepper and salt. Chicory or greens can be cooked the same way, but for both these vegetables you use stock instead of cream.
Lettuce. See Spinach, Swiss way.
Macaroni as a Vegetable. (Dr. Playfair.) Macaroni, also all white vegetables, such as salsify, seakale, &c., are more mellow if they have a piece of suet boiled with them; fresh mutton suet will do. Throw some Naples macaroni ("della costa" is the best) into boiling water. Avoid breaking the strings as much as possible, with care they will bend. Let it boil till it assumes a greenish tint, which should be in about 15 minutes. Before taking it out of the saucepan, throw in a tumbler of cold water. Next drain off all the water and saturate the macaroni with some concentrated meat gravy; sprinkle it throughout with finely grated cheese.
Serve in a deep, previously heated dish in firm, unbroken strings. English people living at home like it longer boiled. Foreign cooks never exceed ¼ hour, but then macaroni is freshly made abroad, and therefore softer to boil and quicker cooked.
Mrs. Weston in a similar recipe says: "Boil 3 ozs. of macaroni for 1 or 1½ hours"; she also adds a little white pepper, and thinks "gravy is better for it than stock." You may grate a little Parmesan over it when dished and brown with salamander. Mushrooms. No. 1. As an Entrée.
Use "Flaps" peeled and a little of the leathery skin removed, leaving the stalk on rinse in cold water, drain well and put into the sauté pan with a little seasoning and a tiny bit of butter on each, and, if liked, uncooked quenelle mixture or sausage mixture can be added on them to be even with top of the stalks. Put them next into not too quick an oven or in a dutch oven for half an hour, take them up and skim the gravy well before adding. Sausage mixture shrinks a little.
Mushrooms, No. 2. "Champignons aux Fines Herbes." (Recette de Maître Pierre, chef de cuisine de Madame Catalani.) "Pelez vos champignons, mettez - les sur un carreau de fer, tranchez la pelure sur votre billot en morceaux fins, avec une proportion convenable d'échalottes, de persil et de fines herbes, ajoutez à cela du poivre, du sel et du beurre selon votre goût; arrosez vos champignons avec cette sauce artistiquement préparée; mettez-les dans le four. Gardez-vous bien d'y ajouter une sauce étrangère. Si le teint n'est pas parfaitement Italien, il faut leur faire sentir, tant soit peu, la chaleur d'une salamandre." Mushrooms. No. 3.
Peel the mushrooms and put them into water to clear from grit, but take them out immediately to drain on a sieve.
Place them, bottom upwards, on a baking sheet, and put in each a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut; season with pepper and salt.
Bake till done, then dish them with their liquor.
Mushrooms. No. 4.
Peel and rinse them, and drain on a cloth bottom upwards. Sprinkle them with lemon and turn again to drain well.
Put butter in a stewpan and stew the mushrooms in it 10 minutes, add a small piece of onion chopped fine, butter and salt.
Make a liaison of cream and the yolks of 2 eggs, and, when ready to dish, toss the mushrooms in it. Make all very hot and serve.
Mushrooms. No. 5. Stewed as at Humberstone. (Mrs. Paget.) The large mushrooms which are very brown inside answer best for this dish. Take out the stalks and skin, and some of the "fur" or inside - also a slice from the top, if the white be very thick.
Cut the mushrooms in slices and put them into a stewpan with a little water, pepper and salt. Simmer slowly till done. Then add a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. Give them one boil up and serve with sippets of untoasted bread.
Sometimes broth or gravy is used instead of water, but this destroys the flavour of the mushrooms.
Mushrooms. No. 6. Mrs. Green's Mushrooms on Toast. (1884.) Use the large "flap" mushrooms. Take out their stalks and use for other purposes, and the peel also (the stalks may be chopped, seasoned, cooked without water and bottled or drawn down to flavour sauces); gently remove the outside leathery part under the peel, but do not make a hole through centre. Have a sauté pan slightly buttered; put in the "flaps" bottom upwards and in the place where the stalk was put a tiny bit of butter, a mere speck, and, if liked, a scrap, pin's head size, of raw chopped shallot. Cover close and cook them in oven. When taken out and dished on squares of toast, dust with pepper and salt, but not till then, as it draws out the juices.
Mushrooms. No. 7. On Toast. (Mrs. Wellington.) For breakfast, when only 2 or 3 mushrooms have been gathered, and you have not enough to broil.
Clean and peel the mushrooms and toss them in clarified butter. Let them get cold and chop them up. Cook some bacon and chop it up; chop fine some parsley and shallot and warm all together, season with a little pepper and a grate of nutmeg. Mix all well. Put them on croûtons and cover with a slight powdering of crumbs fried in fresh butter.
Put them into the oven just to brown and heat up.
Mushrooms. No. 8. Potted. (Anchovy Flavoured).
Take 3 pts. of button mushrooms. Clean them with great care. Stew them, till they have absorbed their own juice; care must be taken at first that they do not scorch, then S add 3 ozs. of butter, a little salt, mace and cayenne. When they have nearly absorbed the butter, add a large tablespoonful anchovy essence, let them stew 10 minutes longer. Then press them into potting pans, and if not required for immediate use cover them with melted mutton suet.
The mushrooms should be the size of a penny and very fresh; put more or less anchovy and seasoning as preferred.
When the mushrooms are turned out of the stewpan, they should have absorbed all the butter and essence of anchovy.
Mushrooms. No. 9. Stuffed "au Gratin."
For a dish you will want 1 doz. large "flap" mushrooms, also 1 doz. "button" mushrooms to chop up, 2 ozs. of scraped bacon fat, a little parsley and thyme and 2 shallots.
Peel the large mushrooms and take out their stalks and put the mushrooms on one side. Chop the peel and the stalks of the large mushrooms and all the button mushrooms up fine, also a little parsley (its leaf only), 2 shallots, and a little thyme, and fry all of these in the bacon fat; to them add a spoonful of brown sauce and 3 yolks of egg; cook all for about 5 minutes.
Now have a sauté pan slightly buttered; in it put the "flap" mushrooms, bottom upwards, and fill each with the above mixture; then powder rasped bread - crumbs over each; bake about ¼ hour, and then dish them in a pyramid, and sprinkle a few more browned crumbs over all.
The mixture of chopped mushrooms is also good served on croûtons, i.e., fried bread, instead of on "flap" mushrooms.
Mushrooms. No. 10. To Pot Whole.
Peel them, put them in strong salt and water, and drain them. Take 2 ozs. butter in a stewpan, and, when it is hot, add the mushrooms. Set them on a slow fire till all has dried up; then put the mushrooms into pots. Put some fresh butter into a clean stewpan and let it boil. Take it off and let it remain 10 minutes; then pour it over the mushrooms to cover them.
Tie over the pots with bladders and keep in a cool place. Mushroom Rice Patties. See Lobster Rice Patties, under Fish. Mushrooms - Stuffing for. See Stuffing for Artichokes, under Stuffings. "Navets au Jus." "Navets Glacés." See Turnips, Nos. 3 and 4. "Nouilles" as a Vegetable. (Isa. Emslie.) Make the "Nouilles" according to recipe under Soups (see Garnishings for Soups) and drain ready for use. Return to fire with 1 oz. of butter and a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan sprinkled over it. Shake pan lest paste should "catch," do not stir, as it might break the nouilles. Cook for 10 minutes, add a little white pepper. Serve hot as vegetable to poultry or meat. It does not keep. "Oignons au Jus." See Onions, No. 2.
Onions. No. 1. Button Onions.
For fillet of beef or nut of veal.
Do not cut the onions too close at the crown, or they will tear and divide; blanch them, then skin them and blanch again; fry them in butter, and serve with half-glaze sauce.
Button onions (whole) are also good done this way to put in clear soup. Fry in butter first and finish in a little stock.
Onions. No. 2. Spanish Onions. Cataldi's "Oignons au Jus." Put them into a stewpan with some thin slices of bacon, a little sliced carrot and a bouquet of thyme, bay-leaf, and parsley, also a little mace and 2 cloves, brown them, add a little stock and let them simmer very gently 3 or 4 hours. Onions. No. 3. Spanish Onions - Braised.
Choose a large-sized onion with a flat top. Just cover it with equal parts hot milk and water and let it boil about 10 minutes, then take off the outer skin and drain the onion. Line the bottom of a pan with fat bacon, put in the onion and pour second stock almost half-way up it. If it suits better use water with 2 tablespoonfuls of glaze instead of stock. Let it simmer but never boil for 2 or 3 hours, till tender. When you have taken out the onion skim the half-glaze and serve as sauce with it. Another version says, "Give just a glaze in the oven when fully done with a bit of fresh butter at top."
Onions. No. 4. Spanish Onions - Stoved.
Put ¼ oz. of butter, with a dessertspoonful of water, in a little stewpan; add the Spanish onion, and cover close; put on the stove to simmer from 1% to 2½ hours till tender. "Oseille à la Crème," and "au Jus." See Sorrel, Nos. 2 and 3. Parsley - to Fry.
Pick it from the long stalks and lay it in water to freshen it, then drain in a colander. Fry, and when crisp lift it out with a slice. Do not have the fat very hot or the parsley loses colour.
Parsnips. Stewed. No. 1.
Take 3 parsnips and boil them thoroughly; drain them on a sieve and let them get cold and then cut them across, scarcely an inch thick. Take a little stewpan and pour into it ½ teacupful of cold milk or thin cream, into which mix smoothly a teaspoonful of flour, ¼ oz. fresh butter, a pinch of salt and a little white pepper. Stir on till they boil, then add the parsnips to this sauce to heat through and serve sauce and all.
Parsnips - Stewed. No. 2. (1880.) They are cut in shape, and blanched, then covered with second stock and left to stew slowly, till the stock has glazed. You should shake them now and then. Parsnips done this way are good with mutton or boiled pork. Peas. No. 1. "Petits Pois à la Française." (Cataldi.) Put the green peas into a stewpan with some water. Add about 3 ozs. of butter. Work peas and butter well up together, then strain the water off carefully, and put the stewpan over a sharp fire. When the butter has melted (take care it does not brown) add about 1 pt. of good stock boiling. Add a bouquet of fresh mint, 1 onion and 2 cloves. Finish stewing the peas; take out the bouquet. Season well with a little sugar, pepper and salt, and serve.
Peas. No. 2. Pea Soufflé. (Rei-na-charn.) Mix 2 ozs. butter, 1½ ozs. fine flour, 1½ raw yolks of egg, a tiny dust of cayenne, and a saltspoonful of salt, with not quite ½ pt. of cold milk. Stir over the fire until it boils, then add 3 ozs. Parmesan cheese, a pint of green peas that have been passed through a hair sieve, the whites of 3 eggs that have been whipped stiff, with a pinch of salt. Put all into a buttered soufflé dish and bake in a moderate oven 30 minutes. Peas. No. 3 Stewed. (Mrs. Thomas.) This recipe does for tinned peas or for old garden peas. Wash them well in cold water and drain; then throw them into boiling water to blanch quickly, with just a pinch of soda; drain on a sieve and put into a stewpan, in which you have put 2 ozs. of cold butter well mixed in a spoonful of flour, also a raw whole onion, a piece of raw ham, a little pepper, salt, and sugar, a sprig of fresh mint, or merely the stalk if it is dried mint, and 1/2 teacupful of stock. Let all stew, and shake the pan gently that all may mix and melt, and cook till tender from 20 to 40 minutes, according to the age and quality of the peas. Just before serving, take the ham and onion out of the pan, and add 1 tablespoonful of glaze to the peas and a little white sugar; let it mix and melt, and serve the peas very hot.
If you prefer you may mix the flour and pepper and salt on a plate, and add them just at the last, the better to dry up the stock when the ham and onion are taken out. Peas. No. 4. Stewed. (1889.) Shell the peas and throw them into briskly boiling water, cook about 2 hour according to size of peas, drain and finish them in ½ oz. to 1 oz. of butter, with 2 tablespoonfuls of stock or white sauce, and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar. They should cook, stirred now and then, 10 to 15 minutes. Served very hot.
A sprig of fresh green mint is put in to stew with the peas and taken out before serving; lettuce is even better than the mint for this. Peas. No. 5. Our Tillypronie way. (Isa. Emslie. 1892.) 1 quart or more of fresh-shelled peas (not old); throw them into boiling water with a pinch of salt, 2 lumps of sugar, and a bit of fresh butter the size of a nut. Boil, uncovered, till tender; then drain, and put them on again with 2 ozs. of butter, a tablespoonful of stock, and the same of white sugar, to simmer uncovered till pretty dry; then dish.
If the peas are very young and served alone, garnish them with triangular bits of light puff-paste, or with fried croûtons.
Peas. No. 6. Vegetarian. 1 pt. of green peas in a small teacupful of water, 2 young lettuces cut small, a little salt. Stew gently till the peas are quite soft, then add a lump of sugar, the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, and 4 tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir the whole well together for a short time, but do not let it boil.
Peas. No. 7. Young Peas. 1½ pts. of shelled peas thrown into 2 qts. of already boiling water, in which is a teaspoonful of common salt, also a lettuce (tied up); they should now boil from ½ to 3/4 hour, without any lid on the pot.
At the end of that time remove the lettuce, and drain the peas. Warm 1/2 oz. of fresh butter in a clean pan, and add the peas. Then put the lid on and shake the pan now and again; let the peas cook 10 minutes, then powder them over with a dessertspoonful of sugar. Mix it in with the peas and serve them hot.
If young peas come to table burst, it shows they have been boiled too fast. "Pommes de terre à la Lyonaise," "à la Maître d'Hôtel," "à la Marquise," "à la Parisienne," and "Sautés." For all these, see Potato. "Potato Balls." Cornwall Terrace way.
These should be half the size of a poached egg - light and crisp and a pretty brown; they are made of mashed potatoes and butter, the mixture to be not too thin, shaped into balls and browned in the oven, but neither egged nor crumbed. Use very little butter, for if too rich they will not rise.
Mr. Mackenzie says the mixture is mashed potatoes, butter, cream, pepper, and salt; they rise high, and should be crisp outside.
Potato - "Balcaskie Potatoes."
Peel the potatoes. Clarify fresh butter to cover the bottom of the pan. Cover close, but keep turning them with a fork that they may brown equally. Shake the pan also; at the last scatter over them a little minced parsley, pepper and salt.
Potato - "Bates' Potatoes." This dish looks like thin Yorkshire Pudding. 2 lbs. potatoes steamed and put through a sieve. Whilst hot add 2 yolks of egg, 1 oz. of butter and seasoning, also a teaspoonful of cream if liked. Work all well together over the fire, then let it get cold on a plate. Roll it out when cold on a marble slab, indent a pattern with a palette knife and cut in pieces. Grease a sauté pan with fresh butter and brown the flat pieces of potato, turning each piece over once, to brown well on both sides.
Potato - Boiled Potatoes. No. 1. As at Coldstone Manse. (1885.) Clean the potatoes but do not skin them; soak them for 2 hours in cold water, cut off the skin at one end the size of 1d. (A similar Irish recipe says: At the thickest end cut off a piece the size of a 6d. - this is the safety - valve through which the steam escapes, and all rents in the skin are thereby prevented.) Boil the potatoes in salt and water, then drain off the water, put a folded cloth on the top of the pan, and put it on the stove to dry for 20 minutes. Do not let them "catch." Send the potatoes up in their skins. Potato - Boiled Potatoes. No. 2. "Mealy Potatoes."
To boil potatoes well, peel them as thin as possible; then let them lie in cold water with plenty of salt from 1 to 2 hours, fully covered by the water, then take them out and put on in other water, also cold, and well salted (sea water is the best), and boil; check the boiling near the end by adding more cold water - this is to make them "mealy"; when nearly done pour off all the water, replace the lid again tight, cover the lid with a cloth, and let them finish cooking on the stove or oven top - this is to dry them well. Potato - Boiled Potatoes. No. 3. To Boil Potatoes the Lancashire way, so as to make them mealy. (Mrs. Farrer.) Choose potatoes as much as possible of one size, wash but do not scrape them, peel them as thin as possible, put them into the pan with cold water and a little salt - no lid is to be allowed on the pan. Try them now and then with a fork, and when they are soft, pour off all the water and draw them to the side of the fire; shake them gently all the time that they may dry, and that the pan may not burn, but still leave them uncovered, even when you send them upstairs, as their steam would spoil them. Serve very hot. Potato Cake. See Potato - "Pommes de terre à la Marquise." Potato Chips. (Beechwood.) Peel the potatoes, then pare them round and round in ribbons, as thin and as long as possible. Have ready a clean frying pan, with some melted lard or nice dripping of veal or beef only - mutton will not do* and throw in a handful of the chips at a time. * An experienced cook says the best fat for this is half mutton fat and half beef fat. Brown them as quickly as possible and spread them on a clean cloth to dry. Shake a little pounded sugar over.
Potato - "Cornish Potatoes." Two ways. (1878.) (a) Cold boiled potato chopped up, baked in a dish, sauté pan or omelet pan, and turned out.
Heat the pan and put in a slice of bacon fat. Let it half melt, enough to grease the pan thoroughly. Then add the potatoes, mix and season and bake. In 10 or 15 minutes, having massed it in centre of pan, press a saucer over and cook a few minutes more. Turn it out on to a dish, with the browned underside uppermost. (b) Old potatoes are nice cooked and dried well till they quite fall to pieces, then chopped up roughly. Have a very little fresh and good butter in a warm frying pan; toss these broken pits of potato in the butter, and shape them into a mass as you do an omelet by turning the pan to one side; turn out on to a hot vegetable dish, brown side uppermost.
Potato Croquettes or "Bagshot Potato Fritters." (J. Emslie. 1885.) To 1 lb. boiled potatoes passed through a sieve, work in 3 tablespoonfuls of cream; season with salt and white pepper if liked; add the yolks of 3 eggs, and 2 ozs. of best Parmesan grated; lastly, mix lightly in 3 whites of egg. Have plenty of boiling lard ready and drop the mixture into it with a tablespoon.
You may use fresh butter instead of cream and roll the potato mixture into balls and fry in lard or in soup fat, and, when dished, grate a little more cheese over all. Potato - "Disappointed (or Soufflé) Potatoes." (Mrs. Farrer and Mrs. Buchanan.) Take 8 sound, good, and good-looking middle-sized potatoes. Bake them, and when done cut about one-third or rather one-fourth off. Take out the insides of the potatoes and put them in a stewpan, mashing them very fine with 2 ozs. of butter and a little salt.
Put them over the fire, stirring into them as much cream as will make a thick batter. Cook, then mix in very lightly the whites of 4 eggs which have been previously whipped to a stiff froth, and put the mixture back into the potato skins. Bake again 20 minutes.
Send to table on a napkin in a flat dish.
The potatoes are in their skins, but look as if they had burst and overflowed at the top.
Potato - "Dripping Potatoes." (Mrs. Husthwaite.) Wash the potatoes and peel them very thin; boil them 10 minutes with a little salt, and then put them in a Yorkshire - pudding tin under the joint which is roasting before an open fire, to catch the gravy; when enough moistened, put them into the oven, still in the tin, turn the potatoes often, and baste them with a little dripping, till crisp and brown.
Serve very hot, but not round the joint, or they will become sodden. Potatoes done in this way are mealy inside and crisp on the outside. Potato - "Dutch Potatoes." * (Mrs. Warre.) They are to be had at Covent Garden, and look like new potatoes in winter. Peel them and pour boiling water over them. Let them boil till three - parts done. Pour * Dutch potatoes are yellow and waxy, and are the only potatoes good for frying for the dish called "Pommes Soufflées," says a cooking authority. e off the water and leave them in the pan covered with a cloth 15 minutes. Serve in white sauce.
Potato - Fried the Farley Cottage way.
When the potatoes are about half boiled, cut them into thin slices, flour them, dip them into the yolk of an egg well beaten, roll them in bread - crumbs, and fry them a light brown.
Potato Fritters, a Turin "Frittura" to serve after Soup or Fish; or in place of Fish. Boil 2 lbs. of potatoes; pass them through a sieve into a basin. Season with pepper and salt grate into them about 1½ oz. or 1 oz. of Parmesan cheese and pour in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Next, break in 4 yolks of egg and beat all well together. In another basin in the bain - marie beat up the 4 whites of egg to a stiff froth and add them to the mixture; mix all well again.
Prepare the frying pan with a little butter and drop in a spoonful of the mixture at a time. They are flat and round, the size of the top of a teacup, 1½ inch thick. Let them fry a nice brown and serve on a hot dish.
Potato - "Lancashire way" to make Potatoes Mealy. See Potato - Boiled Potatoes, No. 3. "Potato Marbles."
For centre of entrée in spring, when you have no better vegetables. Cut old raw potatoes into the shape of marbles, parboil 5 minutes and fry in fresh butter till done.
Then take them off and serve hot - drained.
For a variety, finish them in a little glaze.
Potato - Mashed Potatoes. (Mrs. Thomas.) Put 6 potatoes of an equal size into enough cold water to cover them, add also a pinch of salt. Set them to boil. When more than half done drain off water, put on lid, and under lid put a clean cloth to absorb all the steam. Draw to the side of the fire and shake the pan gently that they may not "catch." When dry, pass the potatoes at once (i.e., hot) through a sieve, otherwise they will get stringy, or else beat them up thoroughly with a 3-pronged fork till quite smooth. Then, still warm, add to them ½ teacupful of warm milk or cream, ½ oz. of butter and a little salt and white pepper. Work all well together over the fire. Brown them if you like, in the oven, later. Cataldi says: If you want them browned add some raw eggs whole and mix all well. Put the potatoes into a dish and shape them. Egg them over with a brush and put them in the oven to bake.
Potato - New Potatoes.
New potatoes should not be prepared till just as they go into the pot. Wash and rub off the peel carefully with a cloth. The water should have a little salt in it, and must be boiling when you put the potatoes into it. When nearly done, drain off the water and set to dry, but not close covered.
Dish them on a little butter, or with white sauce over. Another copy says you should drain and finish them in a very little butter, the butter is not to show, but to flavour agreeably.
Potato - "Pommes de terre à la Lyonnaise." (Cataldi.) Boil some potatoes and let them get quite cold, then slice them, fry them in butter, and, whilst they are still in the pan, add some chopped parsley leaves and lemon juice. Season and serve.
Potato - "Pommes de terre à la Maître d'Hôtel." (Cataldi.) Boil the potatoes, and let them get quite cold. Take as much parsley as you require, and squeeze all its juice out with a cloth, then chop the leaves (the only part to use); cut the cold potatoes into slices, and put them into a stewpan with a little warm water to heat them through; strain the water well off, and add a piece of butter; then add about 3 tablespoonfuls of Velouté or Béchamel or other white sauce (see Sauces for Meat), a little chopped parsley, and a squeeze of lemon juice; season, and serve very hot. Should the sauce be too thick, add a little broth or stock to thin it, but it should be thick rather than thin.
Potato - "Pommes de terre à la Marquise." (Cataldi.) In balls, or as a potato cake.
Boil the potatoes and pass them through a sieve; put them into a stewpan, and add a piece of butter and some eggs, a proportion of 4 yolks to 2 whites; season well, and, if the mixture be too thin, reduce it over the fire. Next, put it into a dish and press it down with a knife; when cold shape it into balls and dip each ball first in egg, then in flour; fry, and serve with the joint. The balls go on the dish round a loin of mutton. Or instead of making it up into balls put the potato mixture into a well - buttered plain mould, previously lined with bread - crumbs. Bake in the oven, and turn out. This is called "Gâteau de Pommes de terre," or "Potato Cake."
Potato - "Pommes de terre à la Parisienne." (Cataldi.) Cut the potatoes "à la jardinère," that is in tiny balls, or like the "pig" of an orange. Boil 5 minutes in milk.
Put them to fry in a little butter. Season with pepper and salt. Dry well on a cloth and serve very hot.
Potato - "Pommes de terre Sautés."
Cut small potatoes in 4, or if they are large slice them, and sauté them in a little fresh butter; add chopped parsley and lemon juice when in the pan, if you like at Lyons some onion also was added; let them cook well and brown a little - season, and serve without drying. "Potato Puffs."
Pass 1 lb. of boiled potatoes through a wire sieve. Add 3 eggs beaten up, pepper and salt, an onion and chopped parsley.
Shape, and fry in butter.
Potato Purée.
Boil some potatoes and pass them through a sieve; put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter, some milk, and some well - flavoured white stock until they become of a consistency between pea soup and pease pudding. Flavour them to taste with pepper, salt, or grated nutmeg; work them well for a short time, and serve. A pod of garlic laid in the saucepan with the potatoes for a few minutes is an improvement.
Potato - "Rice Potatoes."
Boil them, and at the last minute pass them through a wire sieve which crumbles the potato into grains like rice.
Potato - "Scotch Stoved Potatoes."
They must be good potatoes to begin with. Peel them, and put in a pan with about 2 tablespoonfuls of water. Sprinkle them with a little salt and add a tiny bit of butter here and there. Cover close and simmer till soft and melted. Some people use dripping instead of fresh butter, and some add a little onion and pepper. (The two latter are undesirable additions, Lady Clark says.) Potato - "Soufflé Potatoes." See "Disappointed Potatoes." Potatoes. See also Kolcannon.
Rice. No. 1. As a Vegetable. (Isa. Emslie.) Use Carolina rice broken, but not damaged. 2 teacupfuls of rice, well washed, and then put into 2 quarts of boiling water with a pinch of salt. Boil 20 minutes with the lid of the pan off. Strain the rice and rinse it in cold water. Warm a tablespoonful of "half-glaze" (see Sauces for Meat) in a stewpan; put in the rice, and a "dust" of pepper. Put on the lid of the pan and let it stand by the side of the fire for ¼ hour to get hot; give it a shake occasionally to prevent sticking, and then serve hot in a vegetable dish.
Rice. No. 2. As a Vegetable. (Mrs. Wigfall. 1887.) This recipe is called "Rice à la Tutchman ayah"; so no doubt it is Indian. The secret of its being good is patiently washing and re-washing the rice till the water remains perfectly clear; then put a cupful of it into ½ gallon of briskly boiling water in which there is salt, and remove any scum that rises. Toss the rice now and then with a fork. It will probably require 20 minutes. The cook must test the state of the rice by taking a grain and pressing it between her fingers, and when it feels soft but not "mushy," it is time to take the pot off the fire; then pour the water off gently and pour the rice into a colander. Put the colander back on the fire on the side of the range or stove and let the rice steam, tossing it now and then with a long-pronged fork. (If you dine at 7.30, begin to attend to the rice at 5- much depends on the fire our range is small and the heat not great. We cook it in an iron pot lined with porcelain. — C. C.) Rice. No. 3. Plain Boiled. (Lady Clark. 1862.) Use Patna rice, well washed and picked. Let it soak 1 hour in cold water with a little salt; strain off the water and cook in fresh water in a large saucepan, and give it plenty of water and room to swell. Stir it at first, then cover it and let it boil 1½ hour with a nice little bit of fresh mutton suet. It must boil till quite tender but not broken; each grain should be separate. Drain on a hair sieve in the meat screen tilted to the fire. Give it a shake every now and then, to make each grain separate, and dry properly. Keep warm and do not dish till dry.
Rice. No. 4. Plain or Curried as a Vegetable. (1895.) Use a breakfast - cupful. Wash it well and put it on in boiling water in which is a little salt, to boil 10 to 15 minutes.
Then strain it, and wash well in cold water.
Next put it between 2 plates in the meat screen to dry and swell and to keep hot. If to be curried and dry, add, after it has been in the plates, a teaspoonful of curry paste or curry powder - if latter, melt 1 oz. of butter in a pan first, put rice back into the stewpan on the stove, stir with a fork and mix.
This goes well with roast mutton, or with "Poulet au Gros Sel" (see Poultry), should you be short of green vegetables.
If to be curried and not so dry make the following sauce first: For the Sauce: Take 1 oz. fresh butter melted, add a small mild onion chopped fine. When this is half cooked, add a small tablespoonful of curry powder, and stir well over the fire till finished cooking. Then pass all through a sieve. The rice, which is previously thoroughly cooked, each grain separate - quite dry is added to the sauce and all made hot together. The sauce is to flavour the rice through, rather than to moisten it, so do not use too much sauce. Rice. No. 5. "Riz à la Ménagère."
Wash and blanch 6 ozs. of rice in boiling water for 5 minutes and strain, then take ¹¼ lb. streaky bacon, cut it in dice, fry of a yellow colour, add the rice, 1½ pts. of broth, and a little pepper. Boil 20 minutes, then add 12 pts. French tomato sauce, mix thoroughly and put the rice on a dish; garnish it with some small broiled sausages. Rice. No. 6. To Boil.
Wash the rice well and boil it in a large quantity of cold water. When a very little of the centre of the grains remains hard, take rice off fire and strain off half, or more, of the hot water. Fill up the saucepan with cold water and shake the rice. Strain off the water, and the grains will separate; place the saucepan uncovered near the fire to allow the rice to swell, and the centre part of each grain will become tender. Rice. No. 7. "Rissort." See Also "Risotto," under Soups. Blanch 1 teacupful of rice, strain and cook it in broth, when done add ½ of a small bottle of French tomato sauce and 1 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, season with cayenne pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice; when dished up pour round the base some rich brown sauce; serve very hot.
Rice. No. 8. (Mrs. Warre.) Put a pint of good gravy or stock into a saucepan; add a little celery, parsley, and onion, also pepper. Wash 14 lb. rice first in 2 or 3 waters and drain it well; then add it to the stock, &c., and let all boil 20 minutes, after which take off the cover and let it simmer gently till nearly dry. This would go with Braised Fowl, No. 2. See Poultry. Rice. For another excellent recipe, see Rice, under Soups (Garnishings). Salad. No. 1.* "H.R.H. the Duchess of Albany's 'Michelstaeder' Potato Salad." (1890.) Mix well together the following ingredients: 1 raw yolk of egg, 1 hard-boiled yolk grated; 1 good mustardspoonful of French mustard, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, 2 saltspoonfuls of salt; then add 3 tablespoonfuls of each of French white vinegar, of oil, and of ordinary light claret; after that add 1 dessertspoonful each of cold, well - boiled beetroot, minced, and of cucumber minced - for the latter the best to use is German or Russian salted cucumber "Saltz Gurken" or, if without that, take slices of ordinary raw cucumber which have been well sprinkled over with salt for 1½ hour beforehand. Lastly, pour all these ingredients, well mixed together, over cold boiled potatoes which have been roughly cut up not too thin. * Inserted by gracious permission of Her Royal Highness. Salad. No. 2. "Circuit Winter Salad." (Robins.) For Fish and Joint.
Some hours or even the day before you want this salad, stew 2 large Spanish onions 4 hours at least in milk and water, to make them a good colour; then drain them, and let them get quite cold.
Part 1. Take the yolks of 2 hard - boiled eggs (boiled fully 10 minutes), rub them smooth with a teaspoonful of mustard, dry or prepared, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, and a little salt and cayenne pepper; then add drop by drop 5 tablespoonfuls of fresh olive oil, and 2 tablespoonfuls of best vinegar also drop by drop. Mix all thoroughly. Now add 2 tablespoonfuls of good cream, and ½ teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and the salad mixture is ready.
Part 2. Slice into the salad bowl the cold Spanish onions first, then 3 head of celery, and one good beetroot, well cooked and cold. Pour the salad sauce over all, and let it soak ½ hour before dinner. Mix all well up before serving.
Hand it with the fish, and again with the joint.
Salad. No. 3. Italian. (Lady Hobhouse. 1878).
A "make-out" for luncheon, or dinner.
Very small dinner rolls to be used. Take out the crumb and fill with this mixture: Cold well-cooked chicken, ham, tongue, or game, cut in dice - also a little raw lettuce - all cut small and mixed in Mayonnaise Sauce (see Sauces for Fish). Salad. No. 4. "Russian Salad."
Ingredients: - Cold boiled beetroot and carrots, celery, French beans, haricot beans, green peas, asparagus points, sprigs of cauliflower, pickled cucumbers, anchovies, olives, capers, gherkins, cooked truffles, also some tarragon, burnet, chervil, smoked salmon or white meat of chicken and tongue.
Cut the cold cooked vegetables into pieces all of one size; add the salmon, or cold chicken and tongue cut in dice, mix with Mayonnaise Sauce (see Sauces for Fish), garnish with the anchovies, olives, cooked truffles, minced tarragon, burnet and chervil, &c.
Salad. No. 5. "Sir James's Beetroot Salad." (Isa. Emslie. 1889.) Do not prick the beetroot in cleaning it, or the juice will run out, which spoils the colour. Boil it thoroughly and let it get cold.
For the Sauce: Take 2 raw yolks of egg in a clean basin and beat well first with a whisk, add a little English made mustard, pepper, salt; then add ½ pt. oil, a dessertspoonful Chili vinegar, and the same of Tarragon vinegar (oil and 2 vinegars in turn). Put all these three alternately in drop by drop, beating well in with a whisk; lastly add ½ pt. of stiffly whipped cream. Make the sauce 1½ hour before it is wanted. Keep it in the refrigerator.
Slice the beetroot just before serving the salad, and cover it with the sauce, poured over the salad, not mixed in as for green salad.
Serve the salad in a soup plate to eat with beef or mutton. Add a little sugar, if liked, to the cream. "A spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a lunatic to mix it! " Salad. No. 6. Spanish, "a really Spanish Salad." (Mrs. Ford.) For the Sauce: Mix together equal quantities of white vinegar and water with 4 times as much oil, and a little salt and black pepper; you will also want chives, tarragon, chervil, and 4 sprigs of burnet minced and mixed together and kept ready to add later. N.B. Beware of using the stems of the burnet and chervil, as they are bitter. Fill the salad bowl with cos lettuce first very carefully washed and dried, then cut up rather large. Have the sauce mixed in a basin without the minced herbs, stir it well and throw it over the salad; mix together, then sprinkle the mixed herbs over the salad and mix again.
The great point is that the salad should be mixed only the moment before serving, and not standing soaking in the salad sauce.
Salad. See also Tomatoes "au Naturel."
Salad Sauces. See also Sauces for Vegetables.
Salsify, "Salsifis à la Bourgeoise." (Cataldi.) Blanch the vegetables; if hard, blanch them in a "blanc," that is, in a preparation of flour, water, a little vinegar and thyme, bay - leaf and parsley. Trim salsify in lengths and put them with French melted butter (see Melted Butters, &c.) in a stewpan on the fire. 5 minutes before serving add a liaison of the yolks of 3 eggs, beaten up with a little cream. Take care it does not boil or the sauce will curdle and spoil. Season well and serve the sauce over the salsify.
Mrs. Wellington (1880) mellows the salsify by putting a piece of fresh mutton suet the size of an egg with the water that cooks it.
Salsify in Batter. (Mrs. Thomas.) Boil the salsify well, then drain it on a sieve. Take the yolk of 1 egg and mix with it a spoonful of flour and a little salt. Beat the white to a stiff froth and add just at the last. Season the salsify with a little pepper and salt. Dip each piece in the batter. Fry a nice brown in deep fat.
Salsify. See also Artichokes "Jerusalem Chips" and Cauliflower, No. 5, also Macaroni as a Vegetable.
Seakale.
Seakale, if not tender, must be boiled with a little soda; change the water. For sauce for seakale, see Sauces for Vegetables; see also Macaroni as a Vegetable, for cooking Seakale.
Sorrel. No. 1.
Mrs. Sherwood picks a gallon of sorrel and washes it first, then drains it on a sieve. She says, "Do not squeeze it, but put it into a stewpan on a quick fire and stir till it is a purée, drain first on a sieve and then pass it through the sieve into a clean pan dredge over it a teaspoonful of flour, add butter the size of a nut, and a spoonful of first stock, also a pinch of sugar and a little pepper and salt. Stir till well reduced over fire, about 10 minutes."
Sorrel. No. 2. "Oseille à la Crème." (Cataldi.) Pick and wash sorrel, dry it well. Put it into a very clean copper or brass stewpan. Add 1½ tumblerful cold water and put the pan over a gentle fire. Keep stirring till soft, and when quite soft, drain and pass it through a sieve. Next put it into a common stewpan. "Singe," i.e., powder it with 1 dessertspoonful of flour. Add to it 12 oz. of butter, and some cream. Season with a little nutmeg, salt and pepper. Allow it to cook 15 minutes. Then serve it with meat, especially with veal. Mrs. Thomas adds a bit of butter the size of a walnut with the sorrel when first put in the stewpan and uses more butter than Cataldi does; she also adds 1½ teacupful of cream later and a pinch of sugar. Sorrel. No. 3. "Oseille au Jus." i.e., with Gravy.
Use half the quantity of cream you require for "Oseille à la Crème" and an equal proportion of stock. All the rest as in that recipe. If to be served alone, give croûtons as a garnish, that is three-cornered pieces of bread, crumb not crust, fried in butter, quite hot and not greasy, with half-glaze for sauce.
Sorrel. See Spinach, Swiss way.
Spinach. See Endive, No. 1. "Chicorée au Jus" and also Kolcannon. Spinach makes the best kolcannon of all. It must be picked and washed in 2 or 3 waters first.
Spinach Fritters. Turin.
Wash and boil the spinach with salt (no soda), drain, then squeeze with a cloth and pass through a sieve.
Stir into it a grate of nutmeg, a little warmed butter, the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs one at a time, pepper, salt, and a tablespoonful grated Parmesan cheese. Let it get cold. Whip up the whites in a gentle warmth in a separate pan to a stiff froth, and add them just before you shape the fritters, then fry fritters in as much clarified butter as is necessary to prevent their sticking to the pan. Shape them in a spoon with a palette knife, and slip them gently into the pan to cook. Turn them over as they cook, and dry them on a plate on kitchen paper. They should look a nice green, and be the size of the top of a coffee cup, flat, like a potato fritter, and 11½ inches thick - as thick as a crumpet. They must not be touched nor taste of egg.
If you have the kidney of one sheep only, not enough for a breakfast dish, cook it sliced and served in the centre of a dish and these spinach fritters round on half-glaze sauce. (For dressing kidneys, see Meat - Mutton.) Spinach with Cutlets.
A small handful of spinach, washed in several waters and carefully picked, is put on in a good quantity of boiling water, in which is a tablespoonful of salt, to boil 10 minutes till tender. Put it on a colander under the tap and let the water run over it till it is quite cold. You then drain it on a sieve, pressing it under a weighted plate. Pass the spinach through a tammy. Melt ¼ oz. butter in a stewpan; add the spinach; dust over it a little flour, pepper, and salt; add 1 tablespoonful cream, and a piece of glaze the size of a filbert; if out of glaze use 1 tablespoonful of stock or of brown sauce. You may use instead a teacupful of cream or half cream and half stock. Make it all hot. Reduce, and serve with cutlets in a circle round it. Spinach. Swiss way. (Beechwood.) Boil it in an uncovered pan, chop and pass it through a sieve. Melt a very little butter; put the spinach in with a pinch of salt, pepper and a little flour. Add to it a very little weak broth i.e., bouillon, or cream, and let it simmer 10 minutes or ¼ hour. Lettuce, chicory or sorrel may all be dressed in the same way. Spinach. "Épinards au Jus." See Endive, No. 1. "Spruce Peas," or "Sprue Peas." See Asparagus Tips.
Tomatoes. No. 1. "À l'Italienne."
Cut the tomatoes in half and remove the seeds, put a little olive oil in a baking tin, then the halved tomatoes, and fill them with the following mixture: 2 parts bread-crumb, 1 part finely minced ham, chopped garlic, parsley, marjoram, basil, pepper and salt, all mixed; sprinkle olive oil over all and bake them 15 minutes. Serve them on buttered toast.
Use butter instead of oil, if liked, and rub a shallot over the baking tin before you place the tomatoes on it.
Tomatoes. No. 2. "À la Portugaise," as a Savoury, or for Lunch with a Leg of Mutton. (Cannes. 1877.) Choose fresh, ripe, unbruised tomatoes. Cut each in half. Press out a little of their watery juice. Toss them up in a little fresh butter, but be sure they do not break. Season and place the half-tomatoes on a gratin dish, their cut side up. Next prepare a mixture of half an onion and 2 shallots, minced fine, toss up in a little butter and as soon as they take a gold colour add some minced mushrooms or their peelings. Give them a minute over the fire, then season with pepper, salt and just a grate of nutmeg; add, if wished, a touch of scraped garlic.
Add a bit of anchovy pounded, and a little Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) or glaze or stock.
Cook this mixture and reduce till pretty thick. Pour some on the top of each halftomato. Next powder each over with bread - crumbs and put a tiny bit of butter on the centre of each.
Colour them in a gentle oven for about 20 minutes.
Tomatoes. No. 3. American way. (H. Humphreys.) Put the tomatoes in boiling water, which will break the skin directly - then take them out to remove the skin - put them in a pan with a good lump of fresh butter, bread-crumbs, and a little cayenne pepper. Stir them well and mix them thoroughly over the fire for a short time.
Tomatoes. No. 4. "Au Gratin."
You merely put bread - crumbs, pepper, salt, brown sugar, and a little butter on top of each peeled tomato. Lay them close in a well-buttered dish. Bake ½ hour in a slow oven.
Tomatoes. No. 5. "Au Naturel." (1892.) This way is better than sliced raw.
Pop into boiling water for a minute to loosen their skins; drain on sieve; when cold, carefully peel off their skins, quarter, and serve in a soup plate - just as they are to eat with fowl, beef or mutton, like salad or cucumber, but quite "au naturel." As a variety they are sliced and served with oil, vinegar and pepper, after scalding off the skin.
Tomatoes. No. 6. The Farley way.
The tomatoes are first baked in the oven; then you take away the seeds and skins. Put on with a little stock, ham, onion, pepper, &c., reduce and thicken with a few made bread-crumbs. Serve very hot, to eat as a vegetable. No lumps of either bread or tomatoes. It should be smooth as if passed through a sieve. Tomatoes. No. 7. Tomato and Macaroni. See Macaroni with Tomatoes, under Cheese. Tomatoes. No. 8. Stewed.
The tomatoes are cut into quarters, the seeds and watery parts removed; you then slice an onion and shake it over the fire with a little butter till cooked, but not browned (5 minutes); add the tomatoes and season, then simmer till tender. Tomatoes. No. 9. Stuffed.
Pick the stalks off a dozen tomatoes; cut a round out of the top and scoop out the seeds with the handle of a teaspoon; stuff them as follows: - Chop a little truffle, mushroom, parsley, thyme and onion - add a few bread - crumbs, pepper and salt to taste. Mix all well with the yolk of an egg and the juice strained from the inside of tomatoes. Fill the tomatoes with this mixture and bake 20 minutes in the oven. For another recipe, see Stuffing for Artichoke Bottoms, under Stuffings. Tomatoes, Stuffing for. See Stuffings.
Tomatoes. Tinned. (1877.) The tomatoes should be taken out of their tins and put into a covered stewpan and merely strained in a colander and served hot just as they are - no flavouring; or for a change served "au gratin." Or you may heat them in stock or in plain hot water instead of their own liquor.
N.B. - The liquor in tins should always be tasted first, as it is sometimes too sharp to use.
Turnips and Carrots. See Mashed Carrots and Turnips, under Invalid Cookery. Turnips. No. 1. Baked.
Half boil some turnips and cut them in slices the size of half-a-crown, butter a pie-dish, put on the slices and moisten them with milk or weak broth, dust them with bread-crumbs, pepper and salt. Bake them in the oven to a golden brown. Turnips. No. 2. Mashed. (Mrs. Thomas.) Wash the turnips well, and cut each in 2 or 4 pieces, according to size; boil them in water with a little salt, till quite soft. If the turnips are strong-flavoured ones, change the water. Squeeze the water out of them on a sieve, and pass the turnips through the sieve, then wring the mash quite dry in a cloth of which two people each hold an end and twist different ways; warm up the mash in hot milk, cream or Velouté Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) and season.
Turnips. No. 3. "Navets au Jus." (Emslie. 1887.) Cut all the turnips to the same shape with a cutter; put them on in cold water to come to the boil, covered with lid, let them remain boiling 5 minutes after; then drain them, almost cover them with stock, add 3 lumps of sugar, and gently simmer them, now un -covered, at the side of the fire till nearly dry, the stock glazing them. If served with half-glaze, they will require ½ hour's boiling, and should the turnips be old and strong-flavoured, you must, when they are half cooked, pour off the water and replace it with fresh water, which must be also at boiling point, half-cold water would spoil them.
Turnips. No. 4. "Navets glacés." (Cataldi.) The turnips must be young and not strong-flavoured. Trim them into crescents or any other shape. Blanch them, but do not make them quite soft. Strain off the water, and put them on again in fresh cold water.
When quite cold, strain off the water again, then put them in a frying pan with a little butter and a small pinch of salt. Allow them to brown, but on no account to burn. You must keep shaking them gently in the pan, as stirring them with a spoon would break them.
Dry them from all grease on a clean cloth, then put them in a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of half an egg. Keep them in the pan till the glaze has melted. Season with pepper and salt and serve very hot.
Turnips. No. 5. "The Laird's Yellow Neeps." (1890.) Cut them in "pigs," like the divisions of an orange, and put them on in cold water to come to the boil - this blanching makes them less strong-flavoured; then take off and drain; boil with and in broth, and drain at dinner time, but keep hot. Serve as a vegetable, dry (no sugar).
Turnip Tops. These can be cooked like Brussel Sprouts, No. 3. "Vegetable Chartreuse." See Carrots, No. 2 - Carrots and Spinach. Vegetable Marrow. No. 1. Baked. (J. Emslie, 1895, and Mrs. Gordon, 1897.) Cut lengthways into 4, 6, or 8 pieces. These shrink in cooking. Put them on in boiling water with a dessertspoonful of salt. Put the lid on. Cook 20 minutes or 1½ hour. Then lift the pieces out carefully and drain on a sieve for 10 minutes. Now put them on a buttered baking sheet and score them, pepper them scantily and add also tiny specks of fresh butter on each piece.
Your oven must not be too quick. Let the vegetables cook ³¼ hour, that they may dry and brown. They are not turned in the oven, as the hollow side keeps in the butter and pepper nicely. Some add a little grated Parmesan with the pepper and butter. Mrs. Gordon says: "Put into rather quick oven and bake for 20 minutes, basting them frequently while in the oven; when nice and brown, serve." Vegetable Marrow. No. 2. In White Sauce. (Turin.) Vegetable marrow in white sauce is a good variety to serve with meat; peel it and first boil in butter, to draw out the water; then cut it in two from end to end, and season with a little pepper, and serve in a nice white sauce. Vegetable Marrow. No. 3. Stuffed - Turin. "Cousses." The Turin vegetable marrows are small and short - perhaps 2 inches long; they are stuffed with forcemeat, and served in a thick sauce. They come as a "frittura" after the soup, and are sometimes called "Zucchetti à la Piedmontaise."
Vegetable Marrow. No. 4. "Zucchetti à la Milanaise." (Cataldi.) For a vegetable course.
Blanch 6 whole vegetable marrows, without peeling them - they should not be thicker than cucumbers. When cold, slice them very little thicker than you would a raw cucumber. Have ready a sauté pan with a little butter, into which put the marrow. Set the sauté pan over a sharp fire till the marrow has become slightly gold- coloured, season with pepper and salt, then dish it in a pyramid and grate Parmesan cheese over it, put it into the oven to brown and serve up very hot. Vegetable Marrow. See also Cucumber, No. 5. "Zucchetti à la Milanaise" and " à la Piedmontaise." See Vegetable Marrow. 'nm'