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Fish Pies and Puddings (You must have ready some well)

You must have ready some well boiled potatoes, mash them with 1 oz. of warmed butter; add a dessertspoonful of cream and 1 whole egg. Bone the fish, pull it in small bits, and mix with mashed potatoes, adding a little pepper only. Fill a buttered pie dish, rough top of the pudding with a fork and brown it in oven or in a Dutch oven before the fire.

Bake 1½ hour. It should come up a nice brown.

Fish Pudding. No. 3. (Mrs. Brinklee.) 1 lb. of turbot or of any kind of cooked fish, even Findon haddocks. Boil 4 large potatoes, mash them, and add 1 oz. of butter and 1 tablespoonful of cream, pepper, salt, and a grate of nutmeg, also 3 whole raw eggs. Mix them in well with the fish, and steam 1 hour in a mould, or bake in the oven. The same mixture fried is good as fish cutlets or croquettes. Another copy says: The potatoes are well boiled and put through a sieve, and to them you add a little cream and 1 oz. butter. Whilst this is still warm beat in 4 yolks of egg, one at a time.

The mould is a plain one, buttered, and lined with browned bread - crumbs. Into this put a layer of potatoes 1 inch thick.

Fill the mould with fish and mashed potatoes all mixed up together, the fish being flavoured with lobster, or crab, or oyster, or essence of these. Steam 2 hours.

Serve a sauce to correspond in flavour, in the sauce boat. Fish Pudding. See Kedgeree, No. 3, under Fish.

Little Fish Puddings.

These require one haddock, the size they call in Aberdeen "for boiling," for 6 of them. Pick off the flesh carefully, pound and pass it through a sieve, add 1 egg well beaten. Mix all with 1½ pt. of cream whipped stiff, flavour the mixture with a little salt, white pepper, and just a dash of mace. Steam ½ hour in little cups and turn out. Oswestry Salmon Pudding. 1½ lb. of previously well boiled salmon, cold, pulled and chopped fine; ¼ lb. nicely mashed boiled potatoes, passed through a sieve whilst hot and then mixed with 2 ozs. fresh butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, also 2 whole eggs raw, pepper and salt. Into this, when ready, mix the fish with a teaspoonful of essence of shrimps; put into prepared mould, cover with a paper lid, and steam 2 hours, lid on pan. Oyster Pie. See Beef and Oyster Pie under Meat Pies. Oyster Pudding. (Mrs Heathcote, Ayredale.) Ingredients, 3 ozs. of finely chopped suet, 3 ozs. of flour, a little pepper and salt, 3 eggs, ½ pint of cream (or new milk).

Beat all up into a batter, then add a score of oysters, trimmed and free from sand. Put all into a mould and place the mould in a pan of boiling water. Then stir till stiff and steam 1½ hours, keep hot till dishing-up time, then serve with Oyster Sauce. See Sauces for Fish.

Oyster Pudding. See also Beef Steak and Oyster Pudding, and Mutton and Oyster Pudding - both under Meat Pies and Puddings.

Whiting Pudding. For this see end of Whiting Quenelles, No. 1, under Fish. Chicken Cream. No. 1. "Crème de Volaille." (Bates.) Take any uncooked white meat, game, chicken, or veal, free from gristle, skin, or fat, cut up small, scraped and pounded. Butter a plain hollow mould; work in 1 oz. of butter with the minced meat, add gradually the yolks of 2 eggs, salt, and white pepper; pass through a fine wire sieve into a clean basin, and add very gradually a full ½ pint of whipped cream.

Put the mixture into a mould, and put the filled mould into a pan of boiling water to steam near the fire, but not on it, for a full hour. Flavour Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) for this with mushroom peelings, or give a brown Italian Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry) of "fines herbes" and chopped truffle.

Chicken Cream. No. 2. Emslie's "Hen Cream." (1888.) For the Sauce: Make a white sauce, 1 oz. fresh butter warmed, a small raw shallot peeled and sliced, a little green leaf of parsley and thyme, ½ oz. raw ham fat and lean in dice, mushrooms or mushroom peelings if to be had. Let all simmer, uncovered, for about 5 minutes; now mix in a tablespoonful of flour, and then ½ pint of white stock, to cook ½ hour, still uncovered, and keep stirring; then strain through a fine wire strainer.

Let it cool, to use later with the chicken.

Use the white meat only of 2 uncooked hens; pound and add to them a good tablespoonful of the above white sauce, and mix. Flavour with salt, celery salt, white pepper, and a grate of nutmeg. Pass all through a hair sieve. If you have good fresh thick cream add gradually a full ½ pint; you must whip the cream if it is not very thick; steam 3/4 hour in a mould. Turn out, serve in the white sauce, add button mushrooms put on in cold stock to come to the boil, and cooked 10 minutes. Truffles minced the size of carraway seeds and put through the cream just before steaming flavour it well, if you have no button mushrooms.

Chicken Cream. No. 3. (1883.) The white of 2 uncooked fowls nicely picked and put through a sieve; a piece of bread soaked in milk and squeezed dry and pounded, also passed through sieve; mix together. Next whisk up 2 yolks and 1 white of egg, and whisk it to the rest; flavour with a grate of nutmeg, and a grate of pounded mace, and some bits of parsley green, ½ pt. whipped cream added; steam 20 minutes in little cups and turn out on to a Béchamel sauce made of a roux, ham, onion, stock, and cream.

Chicken Cream. No. 4. "Grenates de Volaille."

These are little steamed creams, turned out of dariole moulds, and have chopped truffles on top, in middle of each more chopped truffle, mushroom and a little shallot, this mixture also in the centre of the dish with small quenelles added, to fill in. Chicken Cream. No. 5. Ottershaw.

Take pounded fillets of 2 chickens passed through a wire sieve. Pound again with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and 1 grate of nutmeg. Add ½ pint of thick cream, the yolks of 4 eggs, and the whites of 2. Mix all well, and steam 1 hour. For similar chicken creams fried, see Rabbit Creams. "Crème de Volaille." See Chicken Cream, No. 1. "Crèmes Frites." See Savoury Cream.

Curried Cream Cutlets.

Steam the same mixture as Rabbit Creams, No. 2, in a small cake mould, covered with a lid of buttered paper. The steaming pan must have its lid on. Steam 1 hour. Turn out to get cold. Cut the mixture into cutlet shapes, and serve on a mild curry sauce. Rabbit creams of the day before make these cutlets equally well. "Fish Cream." (Isa. Emslie. 1888.) The uncooked meat of 3 large haddocks will be required; draw their bones down for fish stock, and strain the liquor.

Make a white roux (1 oz. of butter to a tablespoonful of flour), and with this and fish liquor and a little cream make a white sauce to add to the fish with a whole raw egg, and pound all together, with a grate of nutmeg, pepper, and salt; pass through a fine hair sieve.

Take a wooden spoon, and work in ½ pt. of cream to a proper consistency. Steam 1 hour in a mould.

Venetian Sauce, see Sauces for Fish, does best with this. If the fish cream is in darioles make more than is required, and keep some back to fry next day - a very delicate dish. "Grenates de Volaille." See Chicken Cream, No. 4.

Hare Cream. See Pigeon Cream. "Hen Cream." See Chicken Cream, No. 1. "Indian Creams."

The pounded meat from the breast of 2 chickens passed through a hair sieve, seasoned with pepper and salt; mix in 1 pt. of plain cream; should the cream be thin, you must whip it, line some small moulds with the mixture; fill centres with chopped mushroom and truffle, cover with the pounded chicken, and steam 10 minutes. Turn out of moulds.

Oyster Creams. (Auchentorlie. 1879.) Scald and beard 2 doz. sauce oysters, saving their liquor. Make a purée by passing all through a wire sieve. Whip up stiff 1/2 pt. of cream, and mix with the purée when cold. Season with pepper and a small squeeze of lemon, but no salt, because the liquor from the oysters is salt.

Serve cold in cups with a sprig of chervil on the top of each as garnish. Parmesan Cream. (A recipe of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales' Cook. 1884) Whip ½ a pt. of cream, add to it 3 ozs. of grated Parmesan, a little cayenne and salt, rather less than 2 oz. of dissolved gelatine.

Mix all together, mould and turn out.

Partridge Creams. (Emslie. 1893.) ¼ lb. uncooked pounded partridge, a tablespoonful Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry and Game), seasoning to taste, 1½ pt. of thick cream, and a dessertspoonful of truffle minced the size of carraway seeds.

Steam 15 minutes in buttered dariole moulds. Serve in a truffled Béchamel sauce when turned out.

Pigeon Creams. A Note.

Mrs. Backhouse, Greencroft, 1889, steamed Pigeon Cream in dariole moulds and served them hot.

Also she made cold cutlet-shaped hare creams, aspic garnish, with sliced truffle on top of each, i.e., on uppermost flat side, cutlets well flavoured and not too strong of hare. Both entrées useful for a change.

Rabbit Creams. No. 1. Fried.

Two rabbits or 2 chickens, the white part only, pounded and put through a fine sieve, one-third of the weight in butter squeezed in a cloth till dry, all pounded together with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Whip stiff 2 pt. of cream, and mix in well. Put through a biscuit forcer into a slightly-greased sauté pan, cover with boiling stock, and cook gently about 15 or 20 minutes. Turn when they rise once, take out, and drain. Dip into egg beaten whole, roll in bread - crumbs, and fry a light colour. Serve with "Tomato Sauce, No. 2, for Rabbit Creams," see Sauces for Poultry and Game.

Rabbit Creams. No. 2. (J.E. 1895.) The proportion is a tablespoonful of pounded rabbit to a dessertspoonful of good Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry and Game) well - mixed on ice or in a cool place, flavoured with a grate of nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. 2 hours before dinner mix in very gradually a teacupful of cream, drop by drop, as for Mayonnaise Sauce. Test a little of the mixture in boiling water, if too hard, add more cream.

Butter small dariole moulds, and put in the creamed force-meat. Steam them in a sauté pan, 10 minutes, putting the pan in the oven answers best. Savoury Creams - "Crèmes Frites." (E. Lefevre. 1879.) Take the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, beat up with ½ oz. of any dry cheese and 1½ oz. of Parmesan, a grain of cayenne, and a little salt. Add ½ pt. of milk. Pour the mixture into small buttered copper moulds, and having covered them with a paper, steam in a stewpan or bain - marie till set; 20 minutes. You can then turn out and serve half of them at once, hot; and the rest next day, fried a light brown; bread-crumbed, of course.

Veal Cream. (Mrs. Wellington.) 2 lbs. of scraped veal filled and all the white meat of a stock hen, pounded and put through a sieve. Return to the mortar, add to it ¼ lb. bread - crumbs soaked in milk and squeezed out dry, also 1 oz. of butter well squeezed in a cloth, the yolks of 2 eggs and when well mixed, add ½ pt. of well-whipped cream, season with pepper, salt, and a grate of nutmeg.

See Appendix as to the way to kill Birds and Animals required for food. For other Game Recipes see Fish, Game and other Creams; also Meat Pies and Puddings and Soufflés. For Sauces see Sauces for Poultry and Game. "Canard Sauté aux Olives." See Wild Duck. "C'est une idée." See Rabbit. "Civet de Lapin." See Rabbit. "Civet de Levraut." See Hare. "Côtelettes de Levraut à la Provençale." See Hare Cutlets, No. 3. Duck. See Wild Duck. "Filets de Coq de Bruyère à la Dreux." See Grouse Fillets. "Fumet de Gibier." See Game Custards.

Game Birds.

The younger the birds the less well will they keep. If any game is spoiling, draw them and pick the feathers off the breast and belly (called the "apron"), also off all green parts, and pepper those parts. Also put a little pepper inside the bird and a piece of fresh charcoal. If birds are tough, put them in the meat screen an hour or so before cooking to warm through.

Game Custards. (Auchentorlie.) (This recipe in MS. is called "Fumet de Gibier," which, however, is not the same as Game Custards. "Fumet" of Game is the essence of bones fried and stewed. To prepare it, fry the bones till brown, add in a little butter, some cold water, and simmer several hours.) The yolks of 6 eggs to 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, and 1 pt. of very strong essence (rather than stock) of game, or fowl, or even rabbit. Season to taste and mix well, then pass through a fine sieve. Fill the cups and steam slowly and carefully. Serve in little French or Delft pots called "cocottes," in which they were cooked, very hot. Ruth Camp flavours these custards with cheese to vary. Game Patties. For recipe, see Lobster and Rice Patties, under Fish. Game "Polpette." (Mrs. Jamieson.) "Polpette" are useful to use up cooked game or fowl. They look like small delicate flat lamb cutlets, minus the bone. (1.) If of rabbit, mince fine about 6 ozs. and a slice of tongue or of ham, a few mushrooms and truffles, seasoning to taste.

Make about 2 tablespoonfuls of good Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry and Game), add the mince and a whole egg to bind it. Stir over the stove till it thickens, and spread it on a plate to become cold.

Then stamp it out with a cutlet cutter, egg and bread - crumb, and fry in hot lard. Dish as cutlets and fill up centre with any ragoût you please; remains of sweetbread and of tongue or vegetable, cut size of 1d. piece look and "eat" well. Béchamel or any convenient sauce.

Polpette do well curried, raised on a rice border with a curry sauce. You can use chicken instead of rabbit if wished. (2.) Pheasant or Grouse polpette should have bread - crumbs in centre. Hand round with them a good highly flavoured gravy made from the bones. (3.) Hare Polpette require the lean of bacon to flavour and garnish. Portarlington Sauce - made as follows - goes with Hare Polpette: — For this Sauce: Have 1½ cupful of good brown sauce, a glass of red wine, a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, a grain of cayenne pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon.

The centre of the circle of Hare Polpette must be filled with a purée of previously cooked hare, pounded and passed through a wire sieve. The bones of the hare are used for making stock, breaking them up. But first lay in the bottom of the pan some slices of raw ham, with bits of carrot, onion and celery, a few cloves and peppercorns. On these put the broken-up bones, adding some second stock, and boil down till almost reduced to glaze. Strain. Use this to mix with the purée of hare for centre of Hare polpette, adding a few bread - crumbs to give it firmness to stand up; bread-crumbs make a lighter binding than eggs.

Season with pepper and salt. There is neither jelly nor wine in the Hare polpette themselves, only in the sauce.

Game Sandwiches. No. 1. Two ways. (Mr. Milnes Gaskell, Thorne's House. 1882.) (A) Slices of game (or fowl), cut thin, and with a scrape of potted or pounded meat, or better still "pâté de foie gras" on each side of the slice of the fowl. (B) Long rolls, divided lengthways, some of the crumb removed and the rolls stuffed instead with hard-boiled eggs minced in small dice, and a little game or chicken, the leaves (no stalks) of a little fresh cress or mustard, also Mayonnaise or white sauce, which must not be too thin or the roll will get much too soft; no mustard, no pepper, for the greenery is slightly pungent, only a little salt. Game Sandwiches. No. 2. Mrs. Dick's - are best of pounded game or meat, with which mix some cold first stock made from the bones, as for croquettes. Butter only one of the slices of bread, and on it put a little mustard and salt. Flavour the meat with a little pepper and pounded mace.

Game Sandwiches. See also Grouse Sandwiches, and "Pain de Coq de Bruyère." "Game Soufflés, to use up Cold Game or Chicken - Two ways. (Isa. Emslie. 1891.) No. 1. A dry baked soufflé of following sauce mixed with pounded meat: - 1 oz. fresh butter warmed; cook in it a dessertspoonful of flour; next add ½ pt. of white stock; to cook 15 minutes; stir it; flavour with salt, pepper, a grate of nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of cream. This must cool before you add the pounded game (1½ lb.). Work all well in, then add the yolks of 2 eggs one at a time, and just before baking, the whipped-up whites of 3.

Put into a soufflé dish, and bake ³¼ hour.

No. 2. The same mixture done as steamed soufflés.

These are best turned out of dariole moulds, and served with sauce round them; a dessertspoonful of sauce will be enough to make them; add dessertspoonful of cream, 2 yolks, 2 whipped whites. Steam ½ hour, dish them on a brown, well - flavoured sauce. Mushroom flavour improves both recipes much. "Gibelotte de Lapin." See Rabbit.

Grouse Fillets. No. 1. (J. Emslie. 1894) Enough for a large dish. 3 uncooked grouse, the biggest to have all the meat from the body of the bird removed in 2 large fillets, which must be gently braised in a Yorkshire pudding tin till tender, with 2 tablespoonfuls of good stock, sweet herbs, and cut raw vegetables, 1 oz. of fresh butter, and a very small bit of bacon, fat and lean, cut in dice. The stock should hardly cover the fillets. Put a lid of foolscap paper over all while in the oven. Lay the fillets when tender on a plate, with another plate with weights on it over, to flatten them. The fillets not to be sliced till quite cold. Now the remaining 2 uncooked birds, must have all the meat taken off and added to any that is left on the carcass of the already filletted bird. Pound all this meat with 3 ozs. of fresh butter and a little seasoning, and pass all through a sieve. Now slice each cold fillet of the first bird into 4 thin slices. Spread the pounded meat, &c., on these thin slices with a palette knife dipped in hot water, and cut them into shape. Put each gently into a buttered sauté pan, and add a teacupful of stock, not enough to touch the forcemeat, or it will become hard. Cover the pan again with a paper lid, and cook for 10 minutes in the oven.

Draw down the 3 carcasses of the uncooked birds to flavour the sauce. Wood pigeons can be used in the same way. See Wood Pigeon Fillets. Grouse Fillets. No. 2. Cataldi's "Filets de Coq de Bruyère à la Dreux." Cut off the wings of the grouse, with as much of the breast as you can cut off in one piece with the wing but without the breast bone, and lard them with truffles. Sauté the fillets in a little butter and pour sauce over them. For "Sauce à la Dreux": Half glaze, that is an equal proportion of glaze and first or second stock, with a tablespoonful of sherry, some truffles chopped the size of capers, and the gravy of the grouse.

Simmer this sauce on the fire till the glaze has melted and all have mixed. Season delicately, then dish the fillets in a circle with the gravy everywhere. Grouse Livers. (1880.) The McLeod says that grouse livers pounded and seasoned, and served on toast, make a good savoury.

Grouse Polpette. See Game Polpette.

Grouse Potted. See Pheasant Potted.

Grouse Salmis.

If young, the birds would only be jointed and sautéd; if old, first sautéd, then stewed till tender, in stock. If the bird be grouse, partridge, or woodcock, this flavoured stock may be added to the sauce to increase its flavour. But if any kind of duck do not add it, as it will over - flavour fishily.

Serve with fried croûtons round and Grouse Salmis Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry and Game).

For another recipe for Grouse Salmis, see Woodcock Salmis. Grouse Sandwiches. (Mr Lowther.) Excellent grouse sandwiches are made of the breast or wings of old birds, previously cooked and cold, pounded in a mortar. Do not use the legs. Season with a little salt and a soupçon of cayenne pepper, but no mustard, of course. Butter the bread well.

Grouse Soufflé.

Pound the breasts of 2 cooked birds in a mortar with 2 ozs. of fresh butter; rub through a sieve. Add 4 eggs, the whites frothed stiff; season with pepper and salt, and bake in a soufflé tin.

Serve hot in the soufflé tin.

See also Partridge Soufflé.

Grouse. To cook old birds.

Old grouse are not fit for cooking till the feathers pull very loosely from the "apron." When "high," put a piece of bread inside them while roasting; take out the bread before dishing, and throw it away.

A good gravy should be served with them in a boat, none in the dish, but put the birds on a toast when bread is plentiful.

Grouse. "Pain de Coq de Bruyère." (Mrs. Deacon. Deskrie. 1880.) Line a plain mould with grouse forcemeat. Make quenelles also of the forcemeat and blanch them; sauté the grouse livers, toss up in some good brown sauce and fill mould with these and forcemeat. Steam till cooked through, serve with truffle sauce, and, if liked, have some whole truffles also.

N.B. - Sandwiches may be made the next day of the remains pounded smooth and passed through a sieve.

Grouse. See also Hare - Mrs. Carr's recipe; see also Fowl - Stoved No. 3, and "Poulet à la Crapaudine" under Poultry, and Birk Hall Excursion Pie, under Meat Pies and Puddings.

Hare - "Civet de Levraut." Mrs. Wellington's Recipe for Jugged Hare. (1878.) Skin, joint and wash the leveret or hare. Save the blood if fresh and sweet. Put about 1 oz. butter in a stewpan, to grease it. Fry the pieces of meat and turn each piece; put no cover on the pot. Now add ½ lb. of ham, fat and lean (or of streaky bacon), onions and carrots, cut size and shape of small marbles, also a bunch of herbs, parsley, thyme and bay leaf, 1 pt. of water. Put the lid on the pan and let it boil up and then cook gently at least 1½ hours over a stove; if a full-grown hare cook it longer. It may require more stock after cooking slowly an hour, as the liquor wastes; you will know it is enough done when the vegetables are soft, but not broken; add 2 or even 3 tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly, also a glass of red wine. Let all come to the boil 1 hour before serving, then dish the meat and ham and vegetables, and throw away the bunch of herbs. When the remaining sauce is off the boil, add the leveret's "juices." If the blood boils, it will curdle and spoil all, but if good it greatly improves the flavour of the sauce. Put all over the leveret and serve hot, and do not season.

A hare should have three hours'slow stewing; don't hurry it or it will be hard. Hare (or Leveret) Croquettes. (1884.) This recipe is useful to use up any fragments of cooked hare. Pick off all the meat from the legs, back, &c., but use no gristle, fat or skin. Pound all and put it through the sieve; add a little pounded mace and clove, as this dish must be highly flavoured.

It will require making up with the following good sauce: - For this Sauce: Fry some chopped onion in butter, add chopped carrot and minced lean ham, a little roux, 1½ a bay leaf, and some chopped lemon-thyme. Simmer all till soft; then take out the bit of bay leaf and pass the sauce through a strainer. Mix the sauce with the hare and form the mixture into small rissoles; egg and crumb and fry them in lard. Serve dry on a napkin.

Also have the following sauce in a sauce boat, if liked, to serve with the rissoles: For the Sauce: Have a little nicely - made roux, a tablespoonful of glaze, a little good stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of claret and a dessertspoonful of red currant jelly, also, if liked 3 drops at most of anchovy essence. All to simmer 10 minutes, and then be put through a sieve. It should be as thick as demi-glace.

Hare Cutlets. No. 1. Cold. In Aspic. (Mrs. Osborne, Trebah, 1889.) Carefully pound some fillets of cold cooked hare or other game and, as you pound, add enough Spanish Sauce, "Espagnole," see Sauces for Meat, to make the forcemeat moist enough to pass through a sieve; 8 or 9 cutlets also require a tablespoonful of sherry, not more, this should be pounded in at the last, after the Spanish Sauce, just to flavour. Use a fine sieve. Have ready cutlet-shaped tins, with a little well-flavoured melted aspic jelly previously poured into the bottom of each tin and allowed to grow cold. Fill in each tin with the forcemeat and press it down smooth. Pour a little more aspic over the top of each cutlet. Let them get cold, and then turn them out into a dish. Arrange the cutlets in a circle and fill in the centre with aspic cut in dice, or watercress, and sprinkle finely - chopped truffle on each cutlet. (If you use mutton instead of hare omit the wine.) Of course, the secret of success lies in having a well-flavoured Spanish sauce to make the cutlets, and very little but full-flavoured, sherry, not the light bitter kind.

In Mrs. Backhouse's similar recipe it says:

The meat is braised in stock with herbs and vegetables, and when cold, pounded and sauced and flavoured. You can make the sauce from the bones, or, if this is too strong, use a little of it and add a little truffle and put sliced truffle on top of the forcemeat under aspic. To be eaten cold.

Pigeon or Wood Pigeon cutlets can be made the same way, or you may use other game.

Hare Cutlets. No. 2. "à la Dreux."

Proceed as for Hare Cutlets "à la Provençale" (see below) till the cutlets are shaped, but, instead of egg and crumbing them, ornament them with sliced truffles or lard them with truffles.

Put them likewise into a sauté pan to poach, the broth must only cover the bottom of the pan and not touch the forcemeat, and when you dish them up serve with them "Sauce à la Dreux," for which see Grouse Fillets No. 2, but use hare gravy instead of grouse gravy.

Hare Cutlets. No. 3. "Côtelettes de Levraut à la Provençale." A good sized hare should make 8 cutlets.

The back ("le filet") of each uncooked hare, if not much shot, should give 4 on each side, 8 cutlets in all; cut from the bone down each side and as thick as you can; take out the nerve most carefully. Beat these 8 slices flat with a chopper, and trim them into cutlet shape.

Put them in a sauté pan with a little butter and seasoning; make them "set" over a sharp fire, then take them off and let them get cold. Take all the nerve and sinews with equal care from the shoulders and legs of the hare and then pound the meat to make forcemeat; pass it through a sieve. Weigh the forcemeat, and add to it one third the weight in fat bacon; add also a little panada, that is, bread soaked in milk and from which all milk has afterwards been squeezed out in a clean cloth, mix all well; add a little chopped shallot and the yolks of 3 eggs; season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Put some of this forcemeat mixture on the top of each cutlet, give it a good shape, and bread-crumb it "à l'Anglaise," that is beat up a whole raw egg in a gallipot with a little butter, take a brush and paint the cutlets well over with it first, after which bread-crumb them.

Put the cutlets into a sauté pan with very little stock, not enough to touch the forcemeat, or it will soak and spoil, put the pan into the oven till the forcemeat has cooked.

Serve with Tomato Sauce, or Italian Brown Sauce, see Sauces for Poultry and Game; or Half-glaze, see Sauces for Meat, under which also are other Tomato Sauces. If the dish is deep, raise the cutlets on a dais of mashed potatoes or forcemeat. If fresh tomatoes cannot be got for sauce, use French preserved tomatoes. English people will preserve in vinegar, which spoils the tomatoes for sauce. Hare Cutlets. See Veal Cutlets, No. 4, under Meat.

Hare Fillets.

You will want the fillets of 2 hares for a dish.

Fillet the hares, beat the fillets gently and lard them. Put them into a braising pan with raw vegetables (all as for soup), a tea-cupful of stock, 2 ozs. of minced ham or bacon, a few peppercorns and 3 cloves. Put on the lid and let it come to the boil first, then simmer gently 1½ hours.

For the Sauce: 1 oz. of butter, a sliced onion, mushroom if possible, and a tiny bit of raw ham or bacon.

Fry these over a quick fire till gold coloured, then scatter over all a dessertspoonful of flour, and next add 1 pt. of first stock, and stir all well together. Cook ½ hour, stirring now and again. Add a dessertspoonful of glaze and the same of red currant jelly, and any fresh blood of hares strained in. Cook ¼ hour, season and serve. Hare - Hashed.

Mince or slice the meat carefully, freeing it from all fat, nerve, or gristle; warm the meat in a little stock, and when the sauce is ready add the meat without the stock - that the sauce may not be too much thinned. Serve croûtons round the meat. For Sauce: Make a roux, 1 oz. of butter with a spoonful of flour mixed and cooked in it, stirred all the time; and add ½ pt. of stock and 1½ a shallot chopped fine: boil fully 10 minutes, keep on stirring all the time; then season, and serve with the meat. Minced or hashed beef and mutton are all done in the same way. Hare - Jugged. See Hare "Civet de Levraut," and for using up remains see Game Pie, under Meat Pies and Puddings.

Hare. Mrs. Carr's recipe.

Do not paper it, but, after skinning, baste it first with vinegar for 10 or 15 minutes, a small cupful would do if the fire is bright and clear; then baste it continually with dripping, basting with a ladle. If this be neglected, the hare will prove dry and hard in the eating.

In the game larder the hare should lie on its side, even before it is skinned (for if it hangs it gets dry), and be turned each day to the other side or it gets mouldy; but if hanging, it should always be hung up by its forelegs. Bone the back of the hare for cooking, also stuff and lard it.

Another recipe says: The hare should be thickly larded with small lardings of bacon, and basted well first with vinegar, then with butter, and if possible finished with cream; but from the first the basting should be constant.

For Gravy: For roast hare make a gravy of second stock, and should the hare be boned, break the bones and draw them down in the stock to flavour it. Blanch the heart and liver with an onion put on in cold water in a covered pan. It should not only come to the boil, but boil on for 10 minutes; then let it get cold. Take a stewpan and melt in it a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut, and add a little flour, as for roux, or roll the butter into the flour first. Next, mince or pound the already blanched liver and heart, and add them to the buttered flour, and after them add in the prepared and flavoured second stock; mix all well, and let it stand ¼ hour by the fire. Then add the gravy from the hare, a squeeze of lemon, a grate of nutmeg, a little pepper, and the green of chopped parsley first well squeezed in a cloth. Some like a little port wine added. Serve this gravy on the dish with the hare.

Grouse and roe deer are done the same way in Germany - the bastings make the gravy in the dish. Quadrupeds are larded with lardings small but thickly set. Hare. "Pain de Gibier." (Cataldi.) The forcemeat used for hare cutlets, see Hare Cutlets "à la Provençale," also makes, "Pain de Gibier."

Ornament a mould with truffles and put in the mixture. Cook it in the bain - marie or steam it till cooked, then turn it out and serve with Italian Brown Sauce, see Sauces for Poultry and Game.

Hare "Polpette." See Game "Polpette."

Hare "Posada." See Rabbit "Posada."

Hare Stuffing. See Stuffings.

Hare, "Turban Chaudfroid," is a cold steamed pudding of the same forcemeat as "Pain de Gibier"; see above. "Indian Cutlets." See rabbit.

Lark Entrée. No. 1. (Lady Hobhouse, London. 1882.) "Croustades" (cases of fried bread or rice) are baked first; then filled with quenelle mixture, and on top of all a boned lark, flat, "à la Crapaudine," looking wonderfully wee.

Lark Entrée. No. 2. Mrs. Lawrence.

A large boiled mushroom with boned fresh-cooked lark on it. This lark may be stuffed.

Leveret. See Hare "Civet de Levraut."

Leveret. See Hare Croquettes. "Pain de Gibier." See Hare. "Pain de Coq de Bruyère." See Grouse.

Partridge Fillets.

For a party of 6 take the fillets of 2 partridges, pound them well, add a dessertspoonful of brown sauce made from the bones with 2 ozs. of butter; pound again; then pass all through a wire sieve; season with pepper, salt, nutmeg; make into small cutlets, put into a well-buttered sauté pan with paper cover, and steam for 10 minutes.

Partridge "Perdrix aux choux." (Mary Parke. September, 1841.) "Go out, shooting in the morning and bring home a good many birds; have 2 brace trussed as for boiling. Take a cabbage or two scalded in salt and water, then take off the leaves and wrap up each bird in them, tying them up close. "Season with pepper, salt, and a very little mace and some peppercorns. Have ready a little good gravy and put with the birds into a small, deep stewpan. Cover very close and let the birds stew till sufficiently done, then cut the string round each bird and leave them covered by the cabbage, have also some more cabbage in the gravy. Take out the birds but keep them warm. Reduce the gravy and add some Spanish Sauce (See Sauces for Meat) to it. Then put the partridges and cabbage into a dish; have them served up very hot with the cabbage and sauce - and let yourself and Mr. Justice Coltman eat them." "I hope they will be good!" "N.B. Should the partridges be old they must be stewed some time alone, before you add the scalded cabbage, otherwise the vegetables get over-cooked and give too strong a flavour to the birds."

You may garnish with slices of ham or bacon cooked with the birds and cabbage, if you like, and also make, and serve separately with it, a good thick sauce besides. Partridge Pie. See Birk Hall Excursion Pie; see also Pigeon Pie under Meat Pies. Partridge "Posada." See Rabbit "Posada."

Partridge Potted. See Pheasant Potted, also Beef Potted No. 2, under Meat. Partridge Puffs. No. 1.

Look like mince pies.

Half a stuffed bird in each; 1 for each shooter if they do not meet for lunch. Skin, wash, bone, &c., the partridges and pick the meat from the backs and from the legs, and pound it in a mortar. Draw down the bones with an onion to gravy almost like glaze.

For the stuffing: Take the pounded meat and pass it through a sieve, also raw ham prepared in the same way, chopped truffle and a little seasoning. The pastry must be plain (1½ lb. butter to 1 lb. of flour, adding a little salt); line each tin with paste, put in 1½ a bird well stuffed, and 2 spoonfuls of the gravy. Put more paste on for a lid, making a hole in it, and ornament it. Bake quickly for 10 minutes or more till the paste has set, then put the damper in the oven to slacken it and let the meat finish cooking.

Partridge Puffs. No. 2. (Isa. Emslie. 1894.) Emslie's partridge puffs are also "for the moor" and also "like mince pies," but rather different to the last recipe. Four birds should make 6 puffs. She uses 1 lb. butter to 1 lb. flour for the crust.

Fillet 3 uncooked birds, but keep 1 unfilletted. Braise the fillets 1 hour with onion and celery, and minced slice of raw ham or bacon. Let the fillets then be taken out to get cold. Remove all pickings of meat from the carcasses of all 4 birds, including the meat of the one unfilletted bird, pound all this and flavour it with 2 ozs. cooked bacon or ham. Pass this uncooked partridge meat through a wire sieve, add pepper and salt, sweet herbs and a little shallot, truffles, or mushrooms, if handy. Then have the fillets beaten flat, and put a dessertspoonful of the uncooked forcemeat on each braised fillet, lay it on the paste, and add to each a dessertspoonful of gravy made fresh from uncooked partridge bones. Put more paste as a cover and bake 1 hour open the puffs at the side when done, and add some cold jellied gravy. This dish may be made with the fillets, &c., of cold cooked birds. Should the partridges be young, then you need not cook the fillets first, but if old, braise them before putting them in the paste.

Partridge Salmis. See Grouse Salmis.

Partridge Soufflé.

To use up remains of cooked birds. Chicken or grouse can be used in the same way, but you need not have white stock for grouse.

Keep on one side the best parts of the bird.

Cut up the carcass and legs and draw down with second stock (this stock must be white if for partridge or fowl soufflé), add celery, ham minced, and herbs, and a little white pepper. Put on the lid and let it come to the boil, then simmer it beside the fire one hour.

Strain and skim, and make the sauce of this liquor with roux and cream in the usual way.

Now for the Soufflé: Pound the best parts of the bird (none of the legs, &c.), and mix the pounded meat with a dessertspoonful of the white stock; add 2 yolks of egg, pepper, salt, and a grate of nutmeg, also ½ a teacupful of cream. At the last add 2 whites of egg previously well whipped.

Steam the mixture in dariole moulds 1½ hour, then turn out and serve on the sauce. Of course mushrooms improve the flavour, or finely chopped truffles put through both the soufflé and the sauce. If you have neither of these, ham and celery are very important. (If your gentlemen growl at the birds being old and tough, this is a very useful recipe, for the world is tired of rissoles and croquettes. - C.C.) Partridge Stuffing. See Stuffings.

Partridge Wafers - Cold.

When a partridge has been cooked, use it up cold as follows: - The body of the bird only, not its hard legs (which also may have been shot), and be sure that no skin is used. You will require ¼ lb. of meat when seasoned, pounded and passed through a sieve, the same quantity of fresh butter and the same quantity of bread-crumbs, all mixed together. A dessertspoonful of Béchamel or other white sauce (see Sauces for Poultry and Game) to roll it out with. Strew the paste board with browned bread-crumbs, take up a teaspoonful of the pounded meat, and, with a palette knife dipped in hot water, spread it out thin; trim the wafers all one size and then roll like small pancakes, hollow inside. Flavour with mushroom, if to be had.

Dish them in a circle for a cold savoury at dinner.

You can make these wafers of tongue or ham, but if you use chicken it must be flavoured or is tasteless. "Perdrix aux Choux." See Partridge.

Pheasant. See also Tomato Soup No. 1, under Soups.

Pheasant. - Boiled with Rice. (Lady Caroline Murray) Put onions inside the bird and a few slices of bacon upon it, as little water as possible, all in an iron pot, with rice boiled slowly several hours. Serve without the bacon, but with the rice, pouring some good brown gravy in the dish. Pheasant. - Crumbs to go with.

Bread put through sieve, then browned or rather dried, in the oven, on a baking sheet, just as you brown "pulled bread." Stir, to prevent burning. No butter at all. Pheasant "Polpette." See Game "Polpette."

Pheasant "Posada." See "Rabbit Posada."

Pheasant Potted.

Use the breast meat only of cold cooked birds. Take away all skin and fat, and pound the meat in a mortar, till smooth; add fresh butter (1½ lb. to every 1 lb. of meat) and pound them together; season with pepper, salt, and the least addition of pounded mace; then pass it through a wire sieve, pot and press very closely down with a spoon. Set in a slack oven to heat through then press down again with a spoon, and whilst still warm cover with clarified butter.

Grouse or partridge are potted in the same way. See also Beef Potted, No. 2, under Meat. "Pish Pash." See Rabbit "Pish Pash." "Polpette." See Game "Polpette." "Posada." See Rabbit "Posada."

Pigeons. See Wood Pigeons; see also under Poultry, and under Meat Pies, &c. Quail. (Lady Playfair. 1887.) A quail should have a capsicum put inside it and then be boiled 3 minutes, no more cooking required.

Rabbit "C'est une idée." (Mrs. Caswell.) The "bony remains" left from uncooked rabbit or bird, after a cream has been made of the best of the meat - broiled whole, till two-thirds done, which will probably take a 1¼ hour, then rubbed with clarified butter, crumbed and finished broiling. You joint it when fully cooked, before dishing. If jointed from the beginning it loses its juices. Use half-glaze in dish, and Tartar Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) in boat, or you may "devil" the joints instead of using Tartar Sauce.

Rabbit. "Civet de Lapin."

Joint the rabbit, and have a thick slice of bacon ready cut in dice. The rabbit must first be fried in butter and then gently stewed in the following sauce, the raw bacon dice being added and the fried onions: For Sauce: Fry some onions, carrots, celery and herbs in butter; add fresh tomato pulp, and reduce. Thicken, if necessary, with a little roux and put all through a tammy with a spoon except the vegetables and herbs - add a little glaze and brown sauce. The rabbit should stew gently till tender - this may take 1 hour. Being stewed in a good sauce, the rabbit is better flavoured, and the bacon greatly improves it.

Good bacon and fresh butter only to be used.

This sauce is much better than ready-made tomato sauce; it looks like a good "Marengo" sauce.

Rabbit Cutlets. No. 1.

Mrs. Sherwood makes nice "escalopes" from the well beaten fillets of rabbit (2 fillets from each rabbit) sautéd over a quick fire in clarified butter (no onion), covered with paper and turned over.

For Sauce: The trimmings drawn down with herbs and vegetables and ham added to the roux to flavour it - before the skimmed stock is added. Strain and add cream, and at the least a little lemon-juice.

Rabbit Cutlets. No. 2.

Fillet 3 uncooked rabbits and pound the meat, flavour with nutmeg and lemon - thyme and pass through a fine wire sieve. Add a dessertspoonful of Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry and Game) and ½ pt. of good cream, latter if not thick enough must be whipped. Steam ³¼ hour in a plain mould. Let it get cold. Then cut it into small cutlet shapes, and egg, crumb and fry them in lard. Use any sauce with them. Two truffles chopped fine improve this dish. Rabbit Cutlets. No. 3. In Curry Sauce. (Isa. Emslie. 1885.) The fillets of 3 rabbits pounded, for a large dish. Soak 3 ozs. of bread in a little cold milk. Squeeze it dry and pass the bread through a sieve, mix it with 2 ozs. of butter and add it to the pounded rabbit, pound all again and pass all through a sieve. Then mix one whole egg (previously beaten) with it and 1/2 pt. of well whipped cream. Steam it in a mould for ³¼ hour, having seasoned to taste, and set it on ice till wanted. When wanted, cut the cold rabbit mixture into cutlet shapes, egg and bread - crumb them and fry them in lard.

Or instead of bread for the rabbit mixture you can make a white roux of 2 ozs. of butter to 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. Draw down the rabbit bones in water or white stock with vegetables, you will want ³¼ pt. of stock. Add this to the roux and boil uncovered 1½ hour. Stir now and again - strain. It must get cold before you add it to the rabbit mixture, then pound the rabbits and proceed as described. For the Sauce:

Set about making this early in the day: Brown some onions in butter, and powder over them a little sugar, next add 1 tablespoonful of fine flour and 1 teaspoonful only of curry powder. Cook it a little and stir before adding stock - simmer gently 5 hours uncovered till it almost becomes a glaze, skim now and then, and add a little more stock if wanted. Serve under the cutlets in a hot dish.

This "picken"* sauce answers well if you have neither truffle nor mushroom to flavour sauce.

Rabbit. "Indian Cutlets." (Craigevar Castle.) Take the meat off the back of a cooked rabbit, pass it through a fine wire sieve, then put 1 oz. of butter into a stew - pan; when it melts, add 1 tablespoonful of flour, the meat of the rabbit, pepper and salt to taste, and some well-seasoned stock, enough to make it like a good sauce.

Cook it well over the fire, then spread it on a plate to cool. When cold, make it into cutlets; egg and bread - crumb them well, and fry them. If liked, add some chutney with the other ingredients in the stewpan. This is enough to make about 6 cutlets.

Rabbits' Kidneys (Auchentorlie).

Rabbits'kidneys are delicate for kidney omelets.

Rabbits' Livers and Kidneys. (Learney.) Rabbits' livers and kidneys, either whole or minced, sautéd in fresh butter make a good dish for breakfast. If short of the livers, mince a little bacon and add to them. The toasts you put them on should be crisp yet juicy.

Rabbit "Pish-Pash." (Miss Woollett.) Cut a rabbit or chicken into 4 pieces and put them into a stew - pan with 2 or 3 sliced onions, 2 blades mace, some white pepper, bay-leaf, some cardamoms, and 2 qts. of thin veal gravy made from 12 lbs. veal, and ½ lb. rice. Add salt, and let all stew till the rice is soft.

For an invalid, water may be used instead of veal stock. Rabbit "Polpette." See Game "Polpette."

Rabbit with Portugal Onions. (Miss Jones. 1886.) Cut the rabbit in pieces and sprinkle each piece with pepper and salt. Slice 2 large onions. Take a stew - pan with close - fitting cover and put in it a layer of onion, cover with a layer of rabbit and so on in alternate layers, to the top, till all is used. Then cover with slices of bacon.

It should now stew till tender on a hot plate, 2 hours at least. No water with it.

Rabbit can be "jugged" like hare for a variety. See Hare - "Civet de Levraut." Rabbit "Posada," a Spanish Dish. (Mrs. Ford.) (This recipe is marked "The only way to make rabbit good.") Cut up an uncooked rabbit or pheasant, hare or partridge, in joints, and fry the pieces in butter. * "Picken." Scotch term from French "piquant."

Take 2 small onions. Chop them up small and fry till well browned in butter. Add: 1. A little brown stock. 2. A bunch of sweet herbs. 3. and 4. A little salt and cayenne pepper, or chop up a capsicum, seeds and all, instead of pepper. 5. A wineglassful of port wine.

Stew all together 1½ hours, and take out the bunch of sweet herbs at dishing time, before serving.

This "posada" does for an entrée.

Rabbit Pie. See Meat Pies and Puddings.

Rabbit Quenelles. No. 1.

Two rabbits, use only the white meat scraped and pounded in a mortar, weigh it and add to it the same weight of panada, i.e. crumb of bread soaked for 1 hour in milk and squeezed out and dried in a cloth; pound both well together, then add half the weight of butter, first washed then dried in a cloth. Beat all to a cream in the mortar. Add the yolks of 2 eggs, the white of 1, white pepper and salt. Make quenelles of it in the usual way.

For the Sauce: Draw down all the bones and trimmings of the rabbits with a carrot, turnip, bit of celery, an onion and a bouquet of thyme, parsley and bay-leaf. All to simmer gently on the fire with about a pint of water. Take another pan and melt ¼ oz. of butter and a spoonful of flour and mix well. Strain in the stock, season and give it a boil up. A mushroom cut in bits may be added to the mixed butter and flour, but if so strain the sauce again as you dish it. A little cream is added at the last. The following recipe is very similar: - Rabbit Quenelles. No. 2. (Mrs. Wellington. 1876.) The great thing is to prepare them in the morning - many hours before they are wanted.

Rabbit fillets, make them well pounded and passed through a sieve. If you have good sweet white bread, make a panada by letting the crumb soak in cold milk with an onion. The milk must be well squeezed out, the onion taken out; the soaked crumb only is passed through a sieve.

If the bread is not good, you must make a flour and butter and water paste instead as follows:

Boil ¼ pt. of water and stir in 1 oz. of butter, when it has melted add flour enough to make it a thick paste, beat well over the fire - it is cooked enough when it no longer sticks to sides of stewpan. It must get cold.

Squeeze some fresh butter in a cloth, have equal weight of panada and of butter, but half as much again of meat.

Mix butter and panada first, then add the meat, and after it 3 yolks of egg and 2 whites of egg; season with a little white pepper and celery salt, and half a teacupful of thick cream, and put all again through a sieve and then let it stand. At night shape into quenelles and cook in the usual way.

You can poach them in a little stock.

Rabbit Quenelles. No. 3. "A la Bellevue" - Iced. (Auchentorlie. 1876.) Take the fillets and fleshy parts of 2 rabbits and pound well in a mortar; rub through a wire sieve into a basin; mix well with it 12 pt. of good whipped cream, adding pepper and salt to taste, also chopped truffles, cayenne and nutmeg. Have ready some quenelle moulds, well buttered; fill them with this mixture 3 parts full, cover with a paper lid; steam for 10 minutes very slowly, for if they boil at all they turn to curds, then turn out on a dish for them to get cold. Sauce them over with a good Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Poultry and Game), in which should be mixed a fourth part of aspic jelly, and let it set over each. Decorate the quenelles with chopped truffles or pistachios.

Dish the quenelles on chopped aspic jelly, or on a garnished border, whichever way you please.

Garnish the centre with chopped truffle in aspic, or with a macédoine of vegetables in aspic jelly.

This dish should be iced, and served as cold as possible. Cold cooked fillets of turbot are good served in this way. Rabbit - "Spanish Stew."

Fry a rabbit cut in joints, in a teacupful of oil, till browned. Take an earthen stewing pot or Spanish pipkin, put in the rabbit and oil, and as much thin beef broth and claret (half and half) as there is oil. Add a bit of bacon, a Portugal onion previously blanched, celery, carrots, shallot, pepper, salt and sugar, the juice of 2 Seville oranges, or of 1 lemon and a large bunch of various herbs.

Let all this simmer, stirring carefully and continually, and skimming with the utmost care; mince in one capsicum, having taken out the seeds; serve when tender, omitting the herbs.

In summer, apples or peas, French beans, lettuce, sliced cucumber, gourd or any other vegetable except cabbage or turnip may be added. Serve a salad with this stew.

A different Spanish stew will be found under Vegetables, called "A Really Spanish Stew."

Rabbit - Stewed, "Gibelotte de Lapin." (Geneviève Wigfall.) You will want a well hung tender rabbit jointed.

Warm 2 ozs. of butter in a sauté pan; then add 2 or 3 ozs. of bacon cut into dice, and then the rabbit, to brown; dredge a pinch of flour over it; then take out the bacon and rabbit and put them into a saucepan with ¹½ pint of hot stock, 1 glass of white wine - Chablis - or ½ glass of French vinegar, an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a pinch of celery seed or a little celery salt; lid on to keep in the flavours; to simmer 1½ hours, but the pan must be shaken often, and the pieces must be turned over with a fork. Five minutes before dishing, add the liver cut in four. Make a nice toast, dish the rabbit on it, and pour the strained sauce over all. Reindeer Tongue.

To be soaked 14 or 16 hours, and then simmered with a little fresh suet in the water for 4 hours.

The tongue not to be taken out till the water has cooled. Roe Deer. See Venison.

Snipe. See Woodcock Toasts. "Spanish Stew." See Rabbit. "Turban Chaud Froid." See Hare.

Venison - Haunch. No. 1. (Mrs. Thomas.) Make a paste of oatmeal or barley flour and roll it well; it should be stiff and as thick as one's finger. Make a flat sheet of it, and put plenty of dripping inside. Set the haunch on it and roll it well up that no air may get in. Tie up in kitchen paper with a string. Put into a tin with more dripping and a cupful of water. Let it bake in the oven. Half an hour before dinner strip off paper and paste, put a lump of butter on the haunch and let it brown as it finishes cooking in the oven.

A leg of mutton is excellent cooked in the same way and served with currant jelly. Venison - Haunch. No. 2. (Mrs. Wellington, Kensington Gate. Xmas, 1879.) Trim it and cut off the shank bone.

Wrap the venison in foolscap paper, which paper has been buttered on the inside. Over the paper have a thick paste, bran is best but if out of that, use oatmeal or coarse flour. Over this paste wrap another paper well greased with dripping. (1) Venison; (2) paper; (3) bran paste; (4) paper again. In addition to all this care, you must baste the joint continually while cooking.

Half an hour before serving take a large clean dish, to catch the natural gravy; strip all coverings off the haunch and rub it well over with butter. Then dredge with flour and melt a little more butter in a ladle and butter the haunch well all over. Now a second time add a little flour and butter. Brown before the fire, turning constantly till cooked "and comely-looking" - i.e., till it looks done to a turn. All venison chills so quickly that it must be served on a hot water dish. Put only its own gravy in the dish, but serve with it a made gravy in a hot sauce boat - take care this made gravy also is hot.

Hand Red currant jelly or Cranberry or Rowan Jelly (see Jams and jellies) with it; also French beans and potato "pigs" fried, dry. These are cut the shape of the inside divisions, i.e., "pigs" of an orange.

For the "made gravy" Sauce: Draw down the shank of the haunch of venison in a little second stock - but do not add the venison trimmings, as they would overflavour the sauce - thicken with a little carefully prepared "roux" (flour well cooked in butter) add a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a few drops only of Harvey's sauce, and a glass of red wine - port, if the bottle is open if not, claret will do well. Mix, skim, and serve this sauce very hot; it should fill a good-sized sauce boat. Venison Pasty - Aldermaston. (Mrs. Higford Burr.) Cut the meat in pieces the size of an egg. Chop 2 or 3 onions small into a stewpan with ½ lb. of fresh butter and draw them down, but take care they do not burn. Place the pieces of meat in the stewpan, add ½ pt. of port wine and some good stock, a bouquet of herbs, and a little allspice, pepper, mace, bay-leaf, and salt. Stew till tender. When cold make the pasty, strain in the gravy and bake it in the usual way. Venison - Roe Deer Cutlets "à la Chasseur." (Mrs. Jamieson. 1882.) Cut the fillets from a neck or loin of Roe deer, trim them neatly and flatten them. Fry them brown on both sides, season to taste, and lay them in a stewpan on a layer of vegetables, carrot, onion, celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs; add to this some Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), and a glass of red wine. Allow the whole to simmer gently till the fillets are tender.

Then take them out of the sauce and skim it well. Add to it a small spoonful of red-currant jelly and let it reduce to a proper consistency. Place the cutlets again in the sauce to warm up.

When dished, a purée made of the trimmings must fill up the centre. Garnish with plenty of the fat, fried or roasted, one piece at the least for each Roe cutlet. Venison - Roe Deer. The Duc de Coigny's method of preparing it. When you get a Roe deer, clean it thoroughly, leaving it in its skin for 3 days in summer, and for 5 days in winter. Then skin it, dividing the body in 2 equal parts; cut off the 2 haunches and the shoulders from the breast. The shoulders are eaten fresh, either as stews for servants' hall dinners, or they will make excellent pies.

The breast, when pickled, makes cutlets.

When the deer is cut up, wash the pieces thoroughly, taking care that none of the hair remains on the flesh.

Then prepare the following pickle: - Boil about 1½ gallon of good vinegar, and as much water, 15 minutes over the fire, with 1 bay-leaf, parsley, thyme, and sweet basil, with salt and pepper to your taste, and pour it hot into a large earthen dish. Before putting the joints into the pickle, you must lard them with fat bacon; the cutlets must also be larded. 2 days are long enough to pickle the cutlets (see below for recipe for dressing them), but very large joints must remain from 6 to 8 or even 10 days in pickle. The haunches will keep good 6 weeks or 2 months. All the meat must be turned every day. When you require a joint take it out of the liquor, and if you dislike vinegar, roll the joint in a clean linen cloth and press it till all the pickle is squeezed out. If the joint is a haunch, roast it very slowly, 1½ or 2 hours in a paste of bran and water or oatmeal and water, and dish with a strong gravy as thick as jelly. Hand Red currant or Cranberry jelly as in Germany, to eat with it. To cook the cutlets prepared this way, dress them thoroughly with 4 spoonfuls of olive oil, and serve them in the Duc de Coigny's Sauce for Roe Venison (see Sauces for Game).

Cataldi dressed them au naturel and served "sautées au beurre," with Half-glaze sauce, i.e., glaze and first stock, half and half.

Venison - Roe Deer Haunch "Mariné." (Cataldi.) Lard the haunch of Roe deer venison.

To dress it well Cataldi used a whole bottle of light Bordeaux, but the mariné mixture served for a second haunch also.

Warm the contents of a bottle of wine almost to boiling, with a carrot sliced, an onion, some parsley 2 or 3 bay - leaves, some thyme, and a pinch of salt to make the hot mariné mixture.

Turn it over in this at least twice each day, otherwise cook same as the Duc de Coigny's recipe.

Venison - Roe Deer. See also Hare, Mrs. Carr's recipe. Wild Duck "Canard sauté aux Olives." (Cataldi.) Cut up the wild duck, put it in a sauté pan with a little butter, just enough to grease the bottom of the pan. Let it remain till well cooked, turning the pieces over. For the Sauce: In another pan have ready 6 tablespoonfuls of good Spanish Sauce, see Sauces for Meat, a piece of glaze the size of half an egg, and about 2 dozen stoned olives, each cut in half if you prefer. Mix all these things together and season to your taste with salt and pepper; pile the pieces of duck on a dish, pour sauce and olives over the duck, and garnish with triangular croûtons.

If you have no olives, use turnip - it is then Wild Duck "sauté aux navets" - or use mushrooms.

Wild Duck - Orange Salad for. See Sweet Dishes.

Wild Duck - for other sauces see Sauces for Poultry and Game. Woodcock Salmis. - Half cook a brace of woodcock, roasting or braising them very lightly; then joint them, keeping nothing back; put them in a stewpan; add enough stock to cover them and simmer for 10 or 15 minutes; then pile on a dish, and do not forget to add the heads of the woodcocks with their bills to show what they are. For the Sauce: Half-glaze, i.e., an equal quantity of glaze and first stock, melted and mixed, and add a wineglassful of wine - port is best, claret second best, sherry third best. Let wine and all reduce for 10 minutes in gentle heat. If necessary to thicken, add a little flour.

Partridge or grouse salmis is done in the same way, but you do not add the heads if your salmis is of grouse or partridge.

If the salmis is of grouse leave out the backbones; pound these and put them through a sieve; to make the sauce put them in a stewpan with a little stock and a glass of port wine. Heat and strain.

Woodcock Salmis. See also Grouse Salmis.

Woodcock Toasts.

If only half a woodcock is eaten, the remainder can be warmed up for breakfast - on a fresh toast spread with this anchovy butter. Make the toast as follows: Pound a couple or more of fillets of anchovy, pass them through a sieve and mix with butter for your toast - "mock trail." 2 or 3 more chopped fillets also if liked - but better have all pounded. This anchovy toast recipe does for snipe also.

Pepper the bird and serve gravy with it in a boat.

Wood Pigeons. (Mrs. Wellington. 1876.) Wood pigeons are best in spring, as the flavour is too strong in autumn; they are said to make good soup, but are best in pie made as you do pigeon pie, but with no feet ornamentations.

If the wood pigeons are roasted they should be larded and the following made gravy handed in a sauce boat with them.

Blanch and chop the livers of the pigeons with a little chopped thyme and parsley; make a brown roux; add some good stock. Let all cook together, well skimmed, and at the last add a piece of glaze the size of a hazel nut, just to melt and boil up. Season with a little pepper.

Serve strong beef gravy on the dish with the birds, as well. Wood Pigeon Cutlets. See Hare Cutlets, No. 1.

Wood Pigeon Fillets. (Isa. Emslie. 1890.) 4 birds for a dish.

The fillets of 2 cut off and braised till tender, in a buttered pan with very little stock, raw onion, carrot, lemon thyme, and a nip of the green of parsley. Take out the fillets when tender, and press them between two dishes with weights on them till cold; then slice them thin, and shape and cover these cold fillets with pounded forcemeat. Make this forcemeat from the best part of pigeon Nos. 3 and 4 uncooked, in the proportion of 2 ozs. of meat to 1 or 2 ozs. of butter, if the birds are young they require less butter, a little thyme, nutmeg, pepper and salt, mushrooms and chopped truffles, if to be had. Spread this forcemeat on the thinly sliced fillets, which were previously cooked, and now cold. Put these fillets into a buttered sauté pan to poach, in 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling stock flavoured with pigeon from uncooked carcass of pigeon No. 3, drawn down. Cook in the oven for, say, 10 minutes, covered with buttered foolscap paper as a lid. Keep the fillets small. Mushrooms in the centre of dish are an improvement, but if you have none, use delicately shred French beans or peas, or Julienne-cut potato, fried.

For the Sauce: If you draw down the uncooked carcasses you can make the sauce of that stock - if too strong in flavour use part only. Half-glaze is best for sauce - or a good brown sauce with little wine in it. (This is a similar recipe to Grouse Fillets, No. 1.) Wood Pigeon. For another sauce, see Sauces for Poultry and Game. Family gas-stove G