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Sauces for Fish (See also Melted Butter Sauces)

(See also Melted Butter Sauces.) Ingredients: 3 anchovies, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 sprig of winter savoury, 2 sprays of parsley, 1 small onion, 1 bit of lemon peel, 1 blade of mace, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 cloves, 6 white peppercorns. Pick away the hard stems of the thyme and savoury, and beat all well together in a mortar for 5 minutes, strain through a tammy, and add ½ lb. of clarified butter 1 teaspoonful of flour and 6 tablespoonfuls of double cream. Boil all together, stirring all the time.

Caper Sauce for Salmon. (Mr. Taton.) To be put round and over slices of salmon.

Put a small piece of butter into a stewpan, and melt it; then mix well into it a tablespoonful of flour, add some pounded lobster spawn, also some first stock very strongly flavoured by re-boiling with vegetables and herbs, i.e., parsley, thyme, bay leaf and marjoram, and boil all together till it is the colour of lobster sauce; add a little essence of shrimps, or essence of anchovies, and season to your taste. Then add some chopped capers.

Cardinal Sauce for Fillets of Sole. (Mrs. Thomas.) This sauce is also used for Lobster Boudins - - see Fish. Put a small piece of butter into a stewpan; when it has melted, add a tablespoonful of flour and mix well; next add ½ a pint of good stock (second stock will do), a small shallot, a little lobster spawn, a third of a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, the same of chilli vinegar and of essence of shrimps, and 1 tablespoonful of good thick cream. After the cream you may add half a wineglassful of sherry, but it is a very doubtful improvement.

After adding the cream the sauce must not be allowed to boil; remove all fat and grease as it rises; then season with pepper and salt, and serve over and round the fillets. (This red sauce, which should be a most beautiful colour, and rather thick, and Venetian Sauce No. 2, white, are the two best sauces for fillets of sole.) Cheese Custard Sauce for Haddock. See Findon Haddocks on Croûtons under Fish. Chilli Sauce for Filletted Sole. See Fillets of Sole No. 5, under Fish. Cold Sauce for Fish. (I. Emslie. 1888.) Break a fresh egg and put it into a basin. Stir with a wooden spoon and add gradually 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil and 1 dessertspoonful of chilli vinegar, or a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. If you do not use chilli vinegar add a little pepper; add salt, 1½ teacupful of whipped cream and a nip of small cress just the tiny leaves, a tablespoonful not any stalks (use the cress sold with mustard, but don't use the mustard).

Crab Sauce. (Birk Hall.) When you cannot obtain lobster for sauce. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour mixed well with very little cold water at first, lest it should be lumpy; you can use 1½ pint of water in all. Let it boil for about 5 minutes, then pass it through a tammy cloth.

Mix with it about 3 ozs. of butter, taking great care it does not boil. Take a boiled crab (see Appendix, regarding boiling crabs), and mince very finely the whole of the crab's meat, both hard parts and soft; add it to the melted butter with a teaspoonful of essence of shrimps, some seasoning and ¼ pint of cream. Let all warm through and mix, but not boil. Serve in a sauce-boat. Cream Sauce for Turbot Réchauffé.

Take a small onion, cut it fine, a slice of ham, a few sprigs of parsley, some pepper, a little mace, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Put in a stewpan on the fire and stir till hot; then add some cream, boiling; stir the sauce over the fire to thicken, then pass it through the tammy, and return it to the stewpan; add a little more butter, and a small bit of glaze. Stir and keep hot till wanted.

Very good for réchauffé of turbot.

Curry Sauce. See Haddock Croquettes, under Fish.

Custard Sauce for Salmon. (Emslie. 1892.) Have a pan in the bain-marie, boiling briskly on side of the stove, put in 3 yolks of egg; gradually mix in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream in which are 2 ozs. of fresh butter; stir on till it thickens, adding a teaspoonful of sugar and a pinch of salt at the last the juice of a lemon or a small teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a few drops of chilli vinegar. Strain the sauce into a warmed sauce-boat.

Dutch Sauce. No. 1. Cataldi's "Sauce Hollandaise."

For boiled salmon or other fish, or for cauliflower. - Put 2 yolks of egg into a pan in the bain - marie to get quite hot, with 3 ozs. of butter, but not to boil, or it will be spoilt. Stir for about 15 minutes, and, when it becomes thick, squeeze into it the juice of a lemon; season well, and serve. It should be thick and smooth. There is no flour in this sauce.

Dutch Sauce. No. 2. "Sauce Hollandaise." (Bate.) First put 2 ozs. of butter into a stewpan and put it on the fire to melt, then add 1 tablespoonful of flour. When well mixed together add about a teacupful of milk and 1 mix well and smoothly in; after the sauce comes to the boil, let it boil for 10 minutes, then have ready in a bain - marie pot 2 yolks of egg, the juice of half a lemon, pepper and salt, to this add the sauce; mix all well together, put on to the fire but be sure it does not now boil or else it will curdle; just before sending to table add a tablespoonful of cream. Serve in a sauce-boat.

Dutch Sauce. No. 3. For Boiled Fish. (Mr. Courtney.) Boil ½ lb. of butter, 2 blades of mace, a little flour and water. When off the boil add the yolks of 3 eggs. Let it simmer over the fire, and stir it constantly, taking care not to let it boil; add at the last 3 spoonfuls of vinegar, or lemon-juice, which is better. This sauce is good with boiled tench, or for salmon or any other boiled fish. Dutch Sauce. No. 4. "Sauce Hollandaise." (Mrs. Gordon. 1897.) Put the yolks of 3 eggs into a bain-marie pan, place that in another pan in hot water on the stove; add 1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of chilli vinegar, 1½ a teaspoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, adding gradually and alternately 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of white sauce (see below), and a teacupful of cream, whipping with a wire whisk all the time. The water in the pan must not boil, though just on the boiling point. It requires to cook about 20 minutes. The white sauce mentioned is as follows: 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, mixed with milk and cream into a smooth paste over the stove. Dutch Sauce. No. 5. Brown. (Mr. Taton.) For pike, cod, or stuffed and baked haddock.

Make a roux of 2 ozs. butter to a tablespoonful of flour, and fry to a brown roux in a stewpan.

Slice an onion into another stewpan, and let it brown with a little butter, then add it to the roux.

Next melt a piece of glaze, the size of half an egg, in ½ pt. brown stock to make a good thick sauce; add it to the roux and onion; flavour with a sprig of parsley, a sprig of watercress, a little celery, rather less that 1 oz. of lean bacon, and a wineglassful of sherry.

Season to your taste, and add a small pinch of sugar - - stir it well in; let all boil together for a short time. Strain through a tammy cloth before serving hot, round the fire.

Dutch Sauce. No. 6. (Mrs. Sherwood's.) See "Peppercorn Sauce." Dutch Sauce. No. 7.

To a small onion, sliced, add a little horse-radish, parsley, half an anchovy, half a bay-leaf, 2 or 3 spoonfuls of Elder vinegar, and a little second stock. Set it on the side of the stove to simmer; then strain it off, and return it into the stewpan with a little pepper and salt.

Just before using add a liaison of the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs and thick cream. Mix all well together, and make hot; add a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, worked to a cream, and a spoonful of lemon-juice; stir till quite hot, and pass through a tammy. Have a hot basin ready; wet the middle of the tammy, and put in the sauce. Take hold of the tammy at both ends and twist it different ways, wring the sauce through, and dish it at once.

Egg Sauce for Haddock. (Emslie. 1886.) To eat with fresh haddocks which have been powdered with salt and kept for a few hours, and then boiled.

Have 2 hard-boiled eggs (or you may have 3 yolks to 2 whites of egg) minced when cold, not cut too small.

Melt 2 ozs. of fresh butter, mix in a dessertspoonful of flour, cook as a roux a few minutes; then add 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water and mix; then add 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of cream. All may simmer quite 20 minutes at the side of the fire. At the last add the eggs, and a grate of nutmeg, a little salt and white pepper. Serve hot in a well-warmed sauce-boat.

Egg Sauce for Salt Fish.

Hard-boil 4 eggs; then chop them up and put them aside. Next melt in a stewpan 1 oz. of fresh butter; add a tablespoonful of flour, and ½ pint of cream or milk; boil these together first and then add the chopped eggs, and season the sauce to your taste with pepper and salt.

When the eggs have warmed through, the sauce will be ready. Serve in a sauce-boat. "Excellent" Sauce for Fish. (Mr. P. Courtenay.) To melted butter add catsup or tarragon vinegar, to your taste - i.e., if it be a good one! (Mr. Courtenay used to say, "There was no good tarragon vinegar in the world except Maille's.") "Fines Herbes" Sauce. (Mrs. Thomas.) For fillets of mackerel, or veal; see Fillets of Mackerel, under Fish. Put a piece of butter in a stewpan with a little flour, add to it a little good brown stock, and let it boil. Flavour with a good spoonful of mushroom catsup - fresh mushroom peelings are even better, a little tarragon vinegar, a shallot, and some parsley, both these chopped very fine. At the last moment add the liquor of the fish (or veal, whichever it is you are cooking), and a little lemon-juice - but no wine at all. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve hot.

Fish Sauce - Almost a Purée. (Mrs. Caswell.) For the stock, draw down the fish bones with vegetables about 15 or 20 minutes. You should, early in the day, have fried some sliced onions and flavoured them with a little essence of anchovy, parsley, catsup, cream, and seasoning. Pass all with fish stock through a sieve or tammy.

Fish Sauce for Freshwater Fish. (A Recipe from a Monastery.) A sauce to keep in store.

Take 1 lb. of anchovies, a quart measure of claret, ³¼ pint of white wine vinegar, ¹¼ oz. cloves, ¼ oz. mace, 2 pieces of ginger sliced, a little horse-radish, 1 large onion, a bunch of thyme, and the same of winter savoury.

Set them over a slow fire to simmer for 1 hour. Then drain the liquor through a sieve. When cold, put it into a bottle with the spice, but without the herbs. When used, shake the bottle, and to 3 tablespoonfuls of the sauce put ½ lb. of cold butter. Boil up the sauce, draw to one side and whisk in the butter by degrees - whisk over gentle heat the whole time till as thick as good cream. (Add no water, no milk.) The difficulty is to get the sauce to mix with the butter, and not to lie at the bottom whilst the butter floats on the top. The way to avoid this is to use a very slow fire and never to leave off whisking for a moment.

Fish Sauce to keep all the Year. (Mrs. Whyte.) Take walnuts when fit for pickling. Cut them and beat them in a marble mortar, press them and put them into a flannel bag to strain. To 1 pt. of their liquor add 1 lb. of anchovies. Let it boil till dissolved, filter it through a muslin, then boil it again. Add to it ¼ oz. of mace and half that quantity of cloves, some whole pepper, a handful of shallots, a few cloves of garlic, also ½ pt. of white wine vinegar. Boil it all together till the shallots are tender. When cold, strain it and bottle it for use. Instead of one large bottle, use several smaller ones to hold ¼ pt. each. 1 tablespoonful of this liquor will be sufficient to add to a common-sized boat of melted butter for a sauce.

Great care must be taken to strain it well, and not to shake it, for if you do shake it you will spoil the colour.

Geneva Sauce, Brown - Cataldi's "Sauce Genevoise" for Salmon or Grilse or Salmon Peel. ("Sir John's favourite brown sauce.") Take a tumbler of port wine and put it into a stewpan with a little thyme, 1 bay-leaf, and 1 onion. Let it cook till reduced to glaze; then add to it about 8 tablespoonfuls of Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat). Let it boil for about 5 minutes; pass it through a tammy; season, and serve over and round the sliced salmon. (The above is enough for 12 people - but for 4 people a wineglassful of port wine to 3 tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce is quite enough.) German Sauce, "Sauce Allemande." (Cataldi.) Use for Chicken or for Fish served in scallop shells. Make a white roux of a little flour and a little butter cooked together. When the roux is cooked, add stock, and boil again 1 hour; reduce the sauce till it is of a proper thickness; skim most carefully the whole time, then add a liaison of 2 yolks of egg and a little cream, which have been well stirred together; strain it again through a tammy, adding a little lemon-juice the last thing. Half a lemon is enough. Green Ravigote Sauce. See Ravigote Sauce.

Haddock Sauce for Crumbed and Baked Haddock.

Put on in cold water, heads, tails, &c., of the fish, with onion, parsley, and peppercorns, to boil ¼ hour.

This makes the stock for the sauce, thickened with a brown roux and flavoured with anchovy, which gives the fish a flavour of red mullet ("sea woodcock"). Failing the anchovy you must use mushroom catsup or Harvey's sauce. Some add a glass of wine.

Haddock Sauce. See Haddocks - Creamed, under Fish.

Horse-radish Sauce for Salmon. No. 1. (Mrs. Thomas.) This sauce does also for fish rissoles or fish fritters. Boil a slice of horse- radish 10 minutes in a teacupful of stock. In another stewpan have ready a good white roux made of 1 oz. of butter to a teaspoonful of flour. To this roux add the flavoured stock strained from the horse - radish; cook 5 minutes; stir in 2 raw yolks of egg, then mix all thoroughly.

Heat gradually to all but boiling point; then add 1 tablespoonful of good English vinegar before serving in a sauce-boat.

This sauce should look creamy.

Horse-radish Sauce (Cold) for Salmon. No. 2. (Mrs. Creswell. 1882.) Half Mayonnaise, half horse-radish.

Part 1. (Mayonnaise part.) To 1 yolk of egg whisk in fresh salad oil very gradually drop by drop, also a little tarragon vinegar, making a ½ pt. of sauce in all, rather less than more. Season to taste.

Part 2. (Horse- radish part.) Grate a tablespoonful of horse- radish and mix it with whipped cream, add a little French vinegar, a small eggspoonful of made English mustard, a ½ teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt, if wanted. Mix parts 1 and 2 together to make the sauce.

Indian (Hot) Salmon Sauce.

Make hot ½ pt. of good Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat), add a teaspoonful of chopped Indian pickles, 15 drops of Harvey's sauce, 10 of Worcestershire sauce, and a good piece of glaze. Season if wished. Boil all 10 minutes. Skim and serve. Lobster Sauce. No. 1. (Cataldi.) (See Appendix regarding the boiling of Lobsters.) A hen lobster is best (cock lobsters being too large and strong in flavour). Buy a live one. Blanch it, split it in two, running your knife from head to tail down the back. Take out all its meat. Separate the coral from the meat; and cut the meat into small dice. Put them aside on a plate till wanted. Pass the coral through a small hair sieve, then put it also aside on a separate plate.

Crack the lobster's shell in a mortar, put it into a stewpan with a little thyme, bay-leaf and parsley, and a little sliced onion. Put the stewpan on a gentle fire, and cover it close. When the liquor is fully drawn, add as much water as is required, and let it boil for about 20 minutes, then pass it through a sieve. Make melted butter with this liquor instead of water, and proceed otherwise as usual in making it. Season sauce when made, with a little salt, white pepper, and cayenne. Take some live spawn and pass it through a sieve, then add it to the sauce.

Now add the coral and mix it well in. The dice of lobster meat must be added the last thing, with a small teaspoonful of essence of shrimps and 1 tablespoonful of cream, merely in time to be well warmed through.

Lobster Sauce. No. 2. (Mr. Taton.) Have a large boiled hen lobster with plenty of spawn and coral; get some live spawn also. Pound its own coral and spawn in a mortar with a piece of butter the size of a nut. Cut the meat of the lobster into dice. Take 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, and a good spoonful of flour, add the pounded spawn and coral. Now pound the live spawn in the empty mortar, and with 1/2 pt. of cold water wash it into the same stewpan; melt and stir all on the fire till it boils (5 minutes or so). Then add 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy; lastly, add the cut-up lobster meat and a little white pepper. Let all heat through together. 2 spoonfuls of scalded cream can be added if the spawn is not first-rate in quality. Maître d'Hôtel Sauce for Salmon Cutlets. (Cataldi.) (This recipe also does with beefsteaks sautéed in butter, or grilled.) A little lemon-juice, chopped green parsley - leaf, and cold butter, mixed, and put to blend and melt on the hot dish prepared for salmon cutlets (not in paper), when they are served for breakfast or for supper.

But if the salmon cutlets are broiled or baked, and you wish to serve them in paper, you must stew some tiny bits of mushroom peelings, truffles, and fine herbs, all chopped small, in a small wineglassful of sherry, and add this wine to the Maitre d'Hôtel sauce given above.

The whole to be reduced; then open the cutlet papers carefully, put a spoonful of sauce hot over each slice of fish, close the paper quickly and neatly, so that the salmon does not chill.

The salmon cutlets are best cooked in the oven.

For another Maître d'Hôtel Sauce, see Sauces for Meat. Mayonnaise Sauce. Two Ways. (a) For lobster, crab, or crayfish.

To be well made this requires much care.

Put a yolk of egg into a basin, pour into it gently drop by drop a little very fresh olive oil; whisk all the time with an iron whisk, season with a little white pepper; when the mixture becomes thick add a few drops of vinegar, then a few drops of oil, and so on alternately, till you have enough.

Then add about a ¼ pt. of good thick cream and 1½ of a teaspoonful of French mustard; if liked, a few chopped gherkins and capers can be added the last thing (or, better still, the green tips of a little hot-tasting cress, but not the green mustard sold with it). A little salt must be added, but only at dishing time, as it makes the sauce soon become thin.

Split the boiled lobsters, crayfish or crab; should the fish be crab then add the spawn to the sauce; and put some sauce over each piece of the meat before you serve. (b) Mayonnaise sauce (cold) for salmon is very similar, but requires the yolk of 2 or 3 eggs, a little pepper, salt, and ½ teaspoonful of dry mustard; work with a whisk, adding fresh olive oil (3 tablespoonfuls) in, drop by drop, as wanted; then a teaspoonful each of tarragon, and of chilli vinegar, also drop by drop, then 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and at almost the last a pinch of sugar. Make it smooth. (For a Mayonnaise of cold salmon, see Fish.) Mote Fish Sauce - Hot or Cold. (Revised by Isa. Emslie. 1888.) Ingredients: 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, nearly 1½ pt. of cream, or not quite ½ pt. of milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 teaspoonfuls of tarragon or of chilli vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of essence of lobster or of anchovy.

Melt the butter in a stewpan on the stove, then stir in the flour with a spoon, and mix thoroughly over the fire; next add the cream very gradually, as if making a white sauce, stirring on all the time till it boils. After this it must simmer 6 or 7 minutes. Now draw it to one side and let it cool a little before you add tarragon vinegar and essence of lobster, or of anchovy; serve the sauce in a sauce - boat. If the sauce is to be served hot, keep it warm in the bain-marie. If sauce is wanted cold you just cook the roux, then take it off to add the cream and other ingredients, and do not heat it again. Serve hot for turbot, cold for salmon.

The sauce can be used up cold next day.

Mushroom Sauce, Grillon's, for Sole Fillets. (Mrs. Henry Dick.) For fillets of sole dressed "aux fines herbes" as in Venetian sauce recipe but rolled and stuffed with a little veal forcemeat.

Have ready some clarified butter in a stewpan, chop fine the rind of 14 mushrooms, and fry them 10 minutes; chop fine and fry a little parsley, also some onion; chop fine also 1 truffle but do not fry it, merely warm it, in a little good brown stock. Fry each thing separately; then mix the whole; add a little brown sauce, or white if preferred, and season with pepper and salt.

Serve the sauce over the stuffed fillets of sole.

The soles are better stuffed with a very little veal forcemeat or with Whiting Quenelle mixture, i.e., fish, butter, panada (see Fish), sole, or quenelle mixture of sole if more convenient. One whiting does for a dish of sole fillets. The same sauce is good with cutlets and sweetbreads. Mustard Sauce for Herrings. (Mrs. Wellington. 1877.) For this use good melted butter made with stock or milk instead of water. At the last add a teaspoonful of French mustard and 1/2 a teaspoonful of English made mustard.

This sauce also does for "Poulet à la Crapaudine." See Fowls, under Poultry. Organ Fish Sauce.

To ½ pt. of good white sauce (not too thick) add a little cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1½ ozs. of cold butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt. Set the pan in another pan, the latter being full of boiling water, on the stove; stir the sauce with a whisk until thick, then add a little tarragon vinegar to your taste. Oyster Sauce for Fish. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Eighteen small "natives," which makes the whitest sauce, or 1 doz. larger ones, but no sea oysters. As you open the oysters throw them liquor and all, into a small empty stewpan, and let them just come to the boil (10 minutes). Then take them out with a spoon, cut off "beards" and horny parts, keep back the oysters, putting back "beards" and horny parts. Melt 1 oz. butter in a clean pan, to it add a teaspoonful of flour and cook to make it a white roux (3 minutes), stirring all the time. To this add strained liquor and let all boil up. Warm alone a small ½ teacupful of thin cream (from 3 to 4 spoonfuls). Add the cream gradually, taking care the sauce is off the boil, and stir all the time. The oysters themselves must be passed through a sieve and added just to blend and warm through. Season with a grain of white pepper. Scalloped Oysters, see Fish, is from this recipe with alterations. Oyster Sauce. See Cod and Oyster Sauce, under Fish.

Peppercorn Sauce for Fish. (Mrs. Sherwood.) (This is recipe for Dutch Sauce, No. 6.) Put 3 large onions, peeled and sliced, and 2 tablespoonfuls of whole peppercorns, with a teaspoonful of sugar, and 12 pint of cold water to boil quickly till reduced to ¼ pint, by which time the onions should be a mash (if drawn down too long it gets a strong, unpleasant taste); strain all through a hair sieve.

Now take a clean pan with 2 ozs. of butter in it, melt it and skim, and next add to it a spoonful of flour, mixing it very smooth; stir for a minute or two as it cooks, but do not let it brown.

To it add the onion and peppercorn mixture and let all boil, add a small teaspoonful of essence of anchovy or of shrimps, and at the last ½ teacupful of scalded cream. Serve in a sauce-boat.

It should be smooth and rather thick.

Pike Sauce. See Pike - Baked, under Fish.

Ravigote Sauce for Cold Fillets of Fish.

To a good Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) but made with fish stock, add 1 tablespoonful of chilli vinegar, the same of tarragon vinegar, a little Harvey's sauce and anchovy sauce, and when the mixture is about to "set," you mix in 2 good tablespoonfuls of aspic jelly previously whipped to a froth, mix this in very quickly, and pour it over the cold fillets of fish, which you have previously placed on the dish. Garnish each fillet with a bit of Anchovy Butter. See Fillets of Fish Cold "à la Ravigote," under Fish; and for Anchovy Butter, see Melted Butters; where also will be found Ravigote Butter.

Ravigote (Green) Sauce Cold for Salmon.

For this you need a handful of chervil, a few sprigs of tarragon, spring onions, green and white together, blanched and squeezed dry, passed through a sieve, and at the last moment stirred into a Mayonnaise sauce, see Mayonnaise Sauce. Serve quickly. If the ingredients are long together, the sauce will get poor and messy. "Sauce à la Vénitienne." See Venetian Sauce. "Sauce Allemande." See German Sauce.

Sauce for Creamed Whiting. See Haddock - Creamed, under Fish. "Sauce Genevoise." See Geneva Sauce. "Sauce Hollandaise." See Dutch Sauce. "Sauce Piquante." No. 1. (Brown) for Salmon or Mullet. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Melt and clarify 2 ozs. of butter, then add mushroom peelings if you have them, a slice of carrot, of turnip, of shallot, of celery (about 1 oz. of each), a little bit of each kind of herb (savoury, thyme, marjoram, parsley - leaf). Cover and draw down to brown a little first, then add a good spoonful of flour and draw down again, uncovered 3 or 4 minutes, then add ½ pt. of second stock and let all boil 10 minutes, skimming all the time. Strain and heat up again, adding a teaspoonful of anchovy essence and (if you have had no mushroom peelings with the herbs) a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup. Add also a good squeeze of a lemon or a dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar and the same of sherry.

For sauce with mullet add also any juice that comes from the fish to the above recipe. "Sauce Piquante." No. 2. For Boiled Fish. (Imperial Hotel, Aberdeen. 1886.) A smooth roux, stock added, and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce; when all is mixed and cooked add a few capers, cut in halves, a little of their liquor from the bottle of capers, and a little finely-minced gherkin -- all to cook a minute or two before putting into a very hot sauce-boat.

Fill up the caper bottle with vinegar, and cork it. "Sauce Piquante." No. 3. (Goodwin's, London. 1886.) For sole or haddock fillets, fried.

Take gherkins and capers chopped small, parsley and shallot, also well chopped. Sauté (i.e., toss) them in butter and add a small glassful of claret; add also a little good stock 10 minutes before you serve. Use tarragon vinegar if out of shallot. Serve in the sauce boat.

Sauce "Tournée" Brown. - 1½ oz. of butter to a tablespoonful of flour, to brown together. Then add a teacupful of fresh stock to moisten - mix well over a fire.

N.B. - This is a small quantity, but will show the relative proportions. Shrimp Sauce.

Mrs Weston says: "Take a piece of fresh butter the size of a walnut, and a tablespoonful of flour; mix them smooth together over the stove, then stir in ½ pt. of thin cream, or of milk if you cannot get cream; or you may take ½ pt. of warmed milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream with it; when it boils add 2 teaspoonfuls of essence of shrimps. "Keep the bottle of essence of shrimps well corked, and in a cool place." "Sole au Gratin" - Sauce for. See that recipe, under Fish. Tarragon Sauce for Fish or for Quenelles. (Miss Sterling, The Craig. 1881.) To 1 pt. of clear first stock, reduce to Half-glaze, add a bunch of fresh tarrágon leaves and a tablespoonful of water.

Boil it up, then strain and add a little tarragon vinegar and a few choice little bits of the fresh tarragon leaves, chopped small.

Tartar Sauce (Cold) for Salmon.

Use hard - boiled yolks of egg pounded, instead of raw yolks; in other respects make the sauce like Mayonnaise Sauce (Cold) for Salmon. See that recipe. Tartar Sauce. See also several recipes, under Sauces for Meat. Tomato Sauce "à l'Italienne" for Halibut, Turbot, or John Dory. (Chef, Imperial Hotel, Aberdeen.) Ingredients: Half a small onion, a little chopped parsley, 1½ doz. tinned mushrooms, or some trimmings of fresh mushrooms, a slice of the white part of a cooked chicken, ham, tongue, 1 pt. of tomato sauce and ½ pt. of stock. Chop the raw onion fine, and fry it a gold colour in a little butter, then add a little chopped parsley, and let both fry on together a minute or two. If you use trimmings of fresh mushrooms chop them very small like the parsley, but if tinned mushrooms are used they may be chopped with the chicken, ham, and tongue, and mixed well with the parsley and onion on the stove for a few minutes. Then add 1 pt. of tomato sauce and ½ pt of stock, and allow all to boil together 1½ hour, stirring well to prevent its burning.

Before serving add a few drops of anchovy essence, and season with salt and pepper. Venetian Sauce. No. 1. For Fish Fillets. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Draw down the bones of the fish 10 minutes in a little second stock or water, with a sprig of parsley. With 1 oz. of butter and a teaspoonful of flour make a white roux; when the roux is cooked enough, strain the fish liquor into it; put it aside. Strain the yolk of 1 egg and mix into it very gradually 4 tablespooonfuls of well-warmed cream, and keep on one side.

Next, boil up the mixed roux and fish liquor, and skim it thoroughly; when off the boil add the yolk and cream, a little salt, and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Venetian Sauce. No. 2. (White) for Filletted Sole or Haddock, “Sauce à la Vénitienne." (Cataldi.) Have the fish ready filleted, and get their bones from the fishmonger. Put the bones of the fish into a saucepan, and to draw the fish stock add a bunch of herbs, i.e., 2 bay - leaves, some thyme and parsley, and one whole onion with 2 cloves stuck in it; add 1 pt. of second stock or of water; boil all these with the fish bones. Now in a clean stewpan make a white roux of 1½ oz. of butter to a spoonful of flour, and when the roux is cooked add the fish stock, boiling hot; skim and strain. Add a little finely - chopped parsley, only the green part, and the juice of a lemon the last thing. Season and serve over the fish fillets, which have been cooked apart. (See Filletted Sole, under Fish; also see Mushroom Sauce. Venetian Sauce. For another recipe, see Haddock - Filletted, under Fish. White Sauce. No. 1. (Mr. Courtenay.) Boil ½ pint of milk and a piece of butter the size of a large walnut. Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of flour to four pennyworth of cream that is to say if it is thin town cream. Add the cream to the milk, stirring it to make it quite smooth. Grate a little lemon peel into it, and just before it is taken off the fire add a pinch of salt. White Sauce. No. 2. (Mrs. Evans, Birk Hall.) Put 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan to melt; add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and mix well, then add a pint of first stock, half a carrot, sliced, half a sliced shallot, a bunch of sweet herbs and some mushrooms, or their peel to flavour, 1½ oz. of lean ham cut into little dice; boil all up and then let it simmer for 1 hour. Skim off all the fat, put the sauce through a tammy, and add a gill of cream and give it a good warm up, but not boil. Season to your taste.

Wine Sauce. No. 1. For Dressed Salmon. (Mrs. Watson and Mr. Taton.) (This quantity for a party.) This requires 1½ pint Spanish Sauce (see Sauces for Meat) to a wineglassful of sherry and half a small lump of sugar, all well mixed; also truffles chopped the size of half a caper.

Boil all up together, stirring well all the time. Pour over fish. Mrs. Weston adds tiny quenelles of chicken or veal cooked the usual way, all round the slices of salmon when dished up.

The wine must be cooked a few minutes by itself first, or it will taste too strong. Wine Sauce. No. 2. For Salmon or Freshwater Fish.

Four tablespoonfuls of white wine, and 3 of vinegar, 1 large onion, and 4 anchovies are simmered for 1 hour and strained. You then add a teacupful of cream thickened with a little flour and butter.

Wine Sauce. No. 3. For Red or Grey Mullet. (Mrs. Thomas's.) If for red mullet, melt some butter in a stewpan, add some flour to make a good roux; cook and mix it with great care. In another stewpan boil for half an hour some good stock, a little thyme, a blade of mace, an anchovy, 4 cloves, 2 shallots, and a little lobster spawn; then add roux; also wineglassful sherry or Madeira and the liquor that came from the fish; strain through a tammy cloth, and serve over and round the red mullet. Paper the mullet, or cover them with paper in the pan. If for grey mullet, the only difference in the sauce is that you must leave out the spawn.

The mullet must be wrapped in paper and put into a buttered pan; cover pan with a paper lid.

The above quantity is enough for a party.

LIST OF SOME SAUCES APPROPRIATE FOR THE FISH NAMED.