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Garnishings for Soups

"Agnoletti." See Quenelles, No. 8, below; see also Ravioli, No. 2. Bantam's Eggs in Soup. See Memo, about Soups, above. Barley for Soups, "Crème d'Orge."

This is a prepared barley to thicken soups, 3 tablespoonfuls to each quart. The powder should just be mixed like arrowroot in a little fresh cream; then added to the boiling white stock to cook for 20 minutes or more, stirring well to keep it smooth; season and serve.

For the stock, use mutton broth, in which a fowl has been boiled, but well freed from grease when cold. You can have a little pearl barley to heat up and serve with it. "Bouquet" for Flavouring.

A "bouquet" means: parsley, 1 sprig; thyme, 1 sprig; tarragon, 1 sprig; 1 bay-leaf. Brussels Sprouts or Savoys for Clear Soup.

Wash the vegetables in cold water and pick them into clean water. Drain on a colander, and cut into shreds with a knife; then wash them well again, and plunge them into boiling water in which is a little salt and a tiny pinch of soda. When boiled, place them again on a colander, and let the tap water run over them till they are quite cold; then strain them on a sieve. Put into tureen, and pour the boiling soup over them. Button Onions. See Memo, about Soups.

Carlton House Balls. See Quenelles, No. 2.

Chervil for Soups.

To keep chervil green for use in soups, boil the leaves in salt and water about 5 minutes. "Crème d'Orge." See Barley for Soups.

Croûtons for Thick Soups.

Cut 4 ozs. stale bread in dice. Put them on with 1 oz. of fresh butter, and keep stirring till gold coloured.

Then drain them on a sieve, and serve on a napkin. "Crusts" for Julienne Soup.

Julienne with "crusts" is very good. These (like pulled bread or fried croûtons) are added only when soup is helped, so that they keep crisp (see also Vermicelli Soup, No. 1; and "Crusts," under Memo, about Soups).

Custard Dice for Clear Soup. (John's recipe.) These are made of the yolks of 2 eggs to ½ pt. of milk, a little white pepper and salt added.

Steam the mixture ½ hour in a plain mould; after that let it get quite cold; and cut it into dice just before putting in the tureen.

Eggs for Clear Soup. "Œufs Filés." 2 whole eggs to 1 pt. of soup.

Have the soup boiling, and just before it is sent to table pass the eggs through a colander to the soup; give a stir round, let it come to the boil, and sent to table at once, as it will spoil if kept on the fire.

It looks like thinly cut "nouilles" or like threads of egg, and is used in "Feather Fowlie" Soup.

Eggs, Poached. See Memo, about Soups, above. "Epicure Crusts."

Epicure crusts are the size between a florin and a shilling. When fried, cover one side with grated Parmesan, which the hot lard will make stick on; salamander; let whoever helps the soup float a few on the top of each plateful, then they keep crisp, and the cheese does not scatter. "Fines Herbes."

By "Fines herbes" is meant parsley, shallot, thyme, tarragon, mushrooms or their peelings.

Some stew them just a few minutes in a little sherry. For an omelet we omit thyme and tarragon from "fines herbes." - C.C.

Julienne Vegetables for Soup.

Vegetables, cut like needles and fried to a gold colour in a little butter, powdered with sugar; drain, and stew gently till soft, in a little second stock; drain again, and add to the soup quite free from grease to warm up.

Do not add the stock in which they are stewed to the soup. Lettuce, peas and asparagus tips should be simply boiled and drained before adding to soup. "Nouilles" for Soup. No. 1. (J. Emslie. 1885.) Enough for four people's soup well. double this quantity would make a pudding as 3 full ozs. of flour mixed into ½ oz. of butter, and a pinch of salt, sprinkled with cold water, with the yolks only of 2 eggs added. Make it into a stiff, dry paste early in the day, knead it for ¼ hour, and roll it out as thin as paper; let it lie some hours on the marble pastry slab to dry; then cut it into long narrow thin strips. Boil some water with a little salt, and when well boiling throw in the strips to boil 1½ hour or less, some say 6 minutes should do; then take them out and drain them on a sieve, and they are ready for use.

It should be in long, long, pieces like vermicelli, for clear soup, or cut with a cutter into shapes if you prefer, and plenty of it; it does not keep, but is richer than vermicelli for soups; grated cheese should be handed with this soup. Nouilles are good when slightly "cheesed" as a garnish for boiled fowl. See also Nouilles Pudding, under Sweet Puddings. "Nouilles." No. 2.

Take 3 ozs. of best flour, a little salt, and the yolk of 1 egg, mixed to a stiff paste with water and rolled till quite tough. Then roll it out very thin, and cut it in shreds rather thicker than vermicelli. Let the "nouilles" dry several hours, then blanch them in water, and simmer in the soup till quite tender; skim carefully and constantly; mix a dessertspoonful of arrowroot in a little cold milk and add it to the soup at the last and let it boil; then add a gill of cream.

You may make richer soup by a liaison of 2 yolks of egg instead of using arrowroot, but in that case it must not boil, or it would curdle. Peas (Tinned) for Soup.

For soup, tinned peas must be first washed, then thrown into boiling stock, 5 minutes or more till it again boils up; then drained, and added to the soup, without the stock in which they were boiled.

Quenelles. No. 1.

In consommé or in a white soup.

Cooked white meat of fowl and ham pounded, mixed with the yolk of an egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream and seasoning.

Spread the mixture flat on a paper and slip it off into boiling water to blanch; take out, and when cold cut into shapes.

Chopped truffles improve it.

This mixture does for "Ravioli."

Quenelles. No. 2. "Carlton House Balls." Three Recipes. (a) These are of batter and the size of a small walnut. Put on ½ pt. of water with ½ oz. of butter; let it boil, and then mix in 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 yolks of egg and 1 white; stir together when off the fire, and drop through a funnel on to a tin in bits the size of a nut, they puff out in the oven; 10 minutes will bake them.

They are sometimes filled with quenelle mixture, sometimes flavoured with cheese. (b) 2 ozs. of fresh butter to ½ pt. of water and a little salt; all to boil up together on the stove in a largish stewpan to give "room for action"; then take off and add 3 ozs. of fine flour. You sprinkle the flour in gradually, and stir all the time; it will be enough cooked when the mass gets compact and leaves the side of the pan. Take off then, and let it cool before you work in 1 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, then 1 whole egg, then a second yolk, but not its white.

This makes a kind of "petits choux" batter; press it out from a paper funnel on to a baking sheet in little bits of the size of a marble. Bake in a moderate oven. (c) If you wish for stuffed Carlton House Balls use the following for forcemeat to fill them: 2 ozs. of cooked poultry or game, loz. of cooked ham, fat and lean, 2 or 3 cleaned anchovies, 1 oz. of cooked spinach, 1 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 hard-boiled yolks of egg and 2 raw yolks of egg, 1 shallot chopped fine and fried 5 minutes in a little butter (no salt, as you have the anchovies), a grate of nutmeg, a little pepper. Pound all, except the shallot, well in a mortar, adding a tablespoonful of Béchamel Sauce (see Sauces for Meat); after this add the shallot. When wanted, make all hot in a saucepan; stir now and again.

The Carlton House Balls are to be first baked unstuffed. Then make a small hole in each, and fill with the forcemeat by means of a forcer. When filled, put in oven to re-heat 3 minutes. (If raw material be used for this filling, it must bake in the Carlton House Balls the whole time, but they are then not so light.) Have the balls on a hot napkin, and put 2 or 3 in each helping of soup when it is ladled into soup plates, for if put in the tureen they get sodden. Quenelles. No. 3. Egg Quenelles.

White of egg quenelles go well in clear soup with those made of yolk of egg. Take the white of a raw egg and whip it; add a tablespoonful of cream, a grain of salt, and a pinch of grated Parmeson; steam in a little mould and cut up when cold; treat yolk of egg in the same way. The two colours, white and yellow, look well in clear soup. Quenelles. No. 4. Mrs. Pettit's Quenelles for Clear Soup. Melt 2 ozs. fresh butter in a stewpan, skim it well, add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and work till stiff, but not brown, over the stove with a wooden spoon. Add ½ pt of cream, cold, and 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan, the yolks of 4 eggs, one at a time, and a little chopped parsley and white pepper or "mignonette pepper." Have the lid of a stewpan buttered, press the mixture through paper funnel on it in bits about the size of large peas. In cooking they should swell to twice that size. Have about a breakfastcupful of stock ready boiling in a clean stewpan and slip the quenelles gently into it off the buttered lid. They will cook in this stock in 7 minutes. Take care they do not taste raw. Drain on a sieve and put into the empty tureen, pouring the soup over.

Quenelles.* No. 5. (Mrs. Wellington. 1880.) ½ lb. of scraped meat (udder 2/3, veal ¹/₃), but if you cannot get udder use bacon, the fat only, but then you must use less of it, as the flavour is less mellow and less delicate, and if bacon is used less butter also is required. Put all through a sieve, add to this a third of the weight of panada, and the same weight of butter; season with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a little very finely chopped mushroom; if liked, a little cooked minced truffle. Mix all well and beat in with a wooden spoon; put in a whole egg, then a second yolk; add cream till it is of a proper consistency; shape; poach in stock if possible.

If you prefer, instead of panada (i.e., bread soaked in milk and squeezed dry), you can use the following: Boil ¼ pt. of water, and add pepper, salt, and 1 oz. of butter; boil all together and stir in 2 ozs. flour; when whilst being stirred it leaves the sides of the pan it is done; put it aside to cool till wanted.

Quenelles. No. 6. Parmesan Quenelles. Enough for Four People. (Emslie. 1888.) Take 2 yolks of egg and 1 white; beat well; add 1 tablespoonful of cream and 1 of milk or of stock, a little cayenne and salt, also a dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan. Steam in a mould 20 minutes. Leave till cold, and then cut in large dice. Some add a little chopped parsley or seasoning.

Quenelles. No. 7. "Princess" Quenelles. "Appareil à la Princesse." (Cataldi.) The yolks of 4 eggs in a stewpan mixed with flour into a thinnish paste. 1½ pt. cream, ½ pt. milk, are to be gradually added and mixed with this paste. Boil the mixture for about 10 minutes, then pass it through a sieve; season well; shape in a sauté pan into tiny marbles and poach 15 minutes, just before serving the soup.

Quenelles. No. 8. Turin Quenelles. "Agnoletti."

For each, a ¼ teaspoonful of quenelle mixture put in a paste of flour and water rolled very thin; cut in rounds rather larger than a shilling and joined like croquettes. Boil them 5 minutes in boiling water.

Put at once into the hot soup tureen, and pour first stock over them. See also under Ravioli, No. 2.

Ravalenta Arabica may be served in a maigre soup, mixed in the same way as Barley; put into boiling milk, and stirred 15 or 20 minutes; seasoned with salt or with sugar. You may use cold milk, or beef tea instead of milk.

Ravioli. No. 1.

The paste is made of 6 ozs. of flour, 1 yolk of egg, and a little cold water, and is rolled very thin.

Chop up finely cooked cold sweetbread, white breast of chicken, &c.; then add an * See Veal Quenelles, Nos. 2 and 3, under Meat - Veal, and footnote to those recipes. equal quantity of bread-crumbs, flavour with thyme, parsley and salt. Put small quantities of this mince on the paste at equal distances, lay a sheet of paste over all, and cut into rounds. Lay all carefully in a dish to harden. Then boil 10 minutes in water with a little salt.

Drain off the water; put ravioli in a little butter and grated Parmesan in a pan. Just melt the butter over the fire. Shake till done and serve. Ravioli. No. 2.

Paste made of ½ oz. butter worked into ¼ lb. flour mixed up with a little cold water and a pinch of salt, also a little cream to bind it; roll out thrice; cut with a cutter size of half-a-crown; the forcemeat for it is remains of cold game or chicken cream, a small teaspoonful for each moistened with a raw yolk of egg. Have 2 rounds of paste with forcemeat between, or one round spread with forcemeat and double it over D shape and pinch the edges well together, then poach it for about 10 minutes. (The inner side of each round of paste is brushed with raw egg. You may make the filling of scraped bacon, butter, and herbs to flavour it rather highly, and a little grated Parmesan may also be dusted on the inside of the paste, a little also put through the forcemeat, to flavour very slightly.) Poach these "ravioli" till tender, in boiling second stock or in water.

Emslie has the following recipe for meat to fill these "ravioli" for clear soup: Take 2 ozs. of cooked cold game pounded to 12 oz. of pounded lean cooked ham, or cooked tongue, or cooked bacon, all lean, no fat, a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, a grate of nutmeg, and a little pepper, all pounded together, and passed through a sieve, then mix in a tablespoonful of plain cream, and put aside till wanted to make into "ravioli."

See also Quenelles, Nos. 1 and 8. (Mrs. Wellington. 1878.) To use Ravioli as an Entrée: Take any nice mince of white meat and cooked ham, fat and lean, pounded sweetbread previously braised, added cold, mushrooms, truffles, and a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan moistened with stock or white sauce. If possible flavour with mushrooms or their peelings. This mixture is enclosed between 2 very thin pieces of paste made of butter, flour, and salt (not too rich, or the ravioli will burst), cut with a round or crescent - shaped cutter. Pinch the edges of the paste together hard and brush them over with yolk of egg. Take the ravioli up carefully with a palette knife and slip them into boiling water till tender, about 20 minutes' cooking, then take them up carefully so as not to break them, and drain on a napkin. They should be the size of a poached bantam's egg.

Dish them on a hot dish in a circle, powder them over with grated Parmesan, and salamander them. Put truffles in centre of dish, or mushrooms or peas. Use any convenient sauce for them. "Demi-glace" sauce, or Béchamel. "Agnoletti" for soup are made similarly, but are much smaller and shape of a round folded half like a D, and are rather more strongly flavoured with herbs and ham. Any game pounded does for them. See also Quenelles, No. 8. Rice for Soup or Curry.

Patna rice is best for curry and soup, Carolina for puddings. You must wash the rice in several waters till the water used remains clear. Then drain the rice on a sieve and put it into a stewpan allowing at least 1 pt. of cold water to each teacupful of rice; add a teaspoonful of salt and a small piece of fresh mutton suet the size of 1½ an egg. (Beef suet does not answer, so use mutton suet or none at all.) Stir pretty often till it boils, but not afterwards, and let the rice cook till half swelled, then strain off water and put a cloth, or a piece of paper, over the top under the lid; cover close and draw to one side of the fire as if you were cooking mealy potatoes; let it remain in till the rice is soft; all the moisture will then go into the cloth or paper and not drip back off the lid on to the rice. Turn the rice out on the dish with a silver fork, that each grain may fall loosely and separately.

For carrot or Mulligatawny soup the rice must be cooked in the same way. Rice. See also "Clear Soups from Second Stock" for a nice recipe. Savoys. See Brussels Sprouts.

Vegetables for Soup. No. 1. "Spruce peas, "* if to be had in spring. Well cooked alone in salt and boiling water and drained.

A handful of rounds cut from spinach or lettuce leaves cooked in boiling water and a little salt.

Carrots, onions, celery may be boiled together.

Tinned peas are best stewed in stock 20 minutes at least, but sliced carrots and onions are best sautéd in butter and powdered with sugar, then cooked in stock till tender and drained.

Vegetables for Soup. No. 2. (Isa. Emslie. 1887.) The onions minced and fried in butter, just dusted with white sugar. Cut the carrots in shape and put them on in cold water, quite cover with water, and 1 oz. of fresh butter; put lid on pan, and let them come to the boil. Then boil with lid off.

Cut turnip and cut celery, and boil till tender with 4 lumps of sugar; add a white savoy (or curly cabbage) cut up, if liked, at same time. 3/4 hour before dinner add the fried onions, and then let all boil; drain at the last, and wash the vegetables at the tap, pouring the water on them through a strainer; add the vegetables, warmed, to the hot soup.

Vermicelli, Macaroni, or Italian Paste for Soups.

Break the vermicelli in short pieces, and boil it a few minutes, first in water, then in strong stock.

Cook Italian paste the same way.

Macaroni requires a longer time; it should be boiled till soft enough to be cut in pieces of an inch long. The water must boil before you put it in. All three must be placed in cold water, after boiling and before they are put into the stock to boil again.

Use 6 ozs. of vermicelli or macaroni for 3 qts. of soup. * "Sprue" or "Spruce Peas" are the soft eatable parts next to the very points of the sprue asparagus, cut in pieces the size of large peas.

Artichoke Soup.

Pare and blanch 2 doz. Jerusalem artichokes, slice and boil till tender in some good white stock with 2 small onions; then bruise and pass all through the tammy. Mix a small quantity of potato flour in a little stock and add it to the soup; then add as much more stock as will reduce it to a proper consistency. The stock for this soup must be well seasoned.

Bagshot Clear Soup. (Mrs. Sherwood. 1864.) (There are no less than 5 nearly identical recipes for clear soup, in some 13 variations, but they all resolve themselves into the following - enough for 12 people.) 8lbs. of shin of beef and 4 lbs. shin or knuckle of veal,* with 2 ozs. of uncooked lean ham.† Cut up all the meat into bits. not used yet The bones used later on. are also cut up into pieces the size of your fist to be Take 2 ozs. butter and with it grease the stock pot, the bottom especially, but also the sides, to prevent the ingredients from catching and scorching. Put the chopped up meat into the greased pot and add 4 cloves, 1½ teaspoonful peppercorns, 1 inch or less of cinnamon; you may add celery seed if there is no celery in the vegetables you will add later.

Cover tight, put no water and no salt.

Cook till browned shaking the pot often and turning the pieces of meat with a fork. It will take 1 hour or more for this.

Then cover with about 4 qts. of hot water (blood heat) and add fresh vegetables cut up or sliced; plenty of onions, or some leeks and fewer onions, carrot, celery,‡ and a bunch of sweet herbs; a little thyme, a little parsley, 1 blade of mace, 1 bay-leaf and a little knotted marjoram.

Place the cut-up fresh bones on the top of the vegetables; never use any cooked * Or 9 lbs. beef and 3 lbs. veal, but some omit veal altogether. † Sometimes given as 4 ozs. ham and even ½ lb.; sometimes knuckle of bacon is used instead of ham. ‡ Some add turnips, but these, especially in hot weather, are apt to turn sour - better omit. bones for this clear soup. Boil up quickly, skim constantly; * simmer uncovered for 6 or 8 hours.

Then strain off the soup through a cloth into a kitchen basin and put aside till next day.

The following day take off the cake of fat which will have formed at the top, and press over the soup a clean cloth, or a bit of whitey - brown kitchen paper - not foolscap to remove the little bits of grease. Warm up the soup and add Custard Dice, Quenelles, or previously cooked "Julienne" vegetables (for all these see "Garnishings for Soup") and serve. Do not chill the soup by putting it in a cold tureen. If too reduced before ready to serve, add a ladleful of warm water at a time.

Cold water added to make grease rise, or white of egg to clarify, weaken the soup and spoil the flavour.

The stock should be perfectly clear and of a beautiful amber colour. The remains draw down for second stock, but you should add fresh vegetables and ham for soups made of second stock, to flavour.

Barley Soup, "Gertenschleim," a Purée. (Miss Weber, Hyde Park Gate. 1880.) There are 2 recipes under this name: (a) 1 qt. of good veal consommé boiling, or this soup can be made with clear soup from second stock. Put with it 4 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley. Let it simmer 2½ hours at least over a slow fire. Ten minutes before serving pass it through a hair sieve like any other purée. Let it boil up again and season with salt. (b) Scotch barley answers better than pearl barley, having more flavour. Boil it in water with a small piece of butter till soft. In Germany, sometimes a little vinegar is added.† Meantime mix well a dessertspoonful of fine flour in a little milk; mix as carefully as if it were arrowroot; add this to the barley, and give all a boil up; add white stock, and pass the soup through a sieve.

You may make it richer with a little yolk of egg mixed in thin cream; but do not turn it into English rich "white soup," as it has an individuality of its own. Barley Broth. (Miss Wollett's Scotch Recipe.) 6lbs. shin of beef, 3 (Scotch) pts. of water, 1 breakfastcupful of fine pearl barley well washed. Boil together and skim while boiling.

Now take 3 large carrots; grate 1 and mince the others; mince also 3 turnips, and a handful of peeled onions. Add a handful of the green leaves of parsley chopped fine. Have all these ready, and when the beef and barley have boiled slowly for about 3 hours add the vegetables, and let the whole boil another hour, taking care to stir it frequently. Allow it to stand half an hour by the side of the fire before it is served. Beef Tea. See Invalid Cookery. * This "skimming" is most delicate for frying croquettes and cutlets and for braising meat or birds - so keep it for that purpose. † Lady Clark does not think this improves it. ‡ A Scotch pint is equal to 4 English pints, i.e., same as 2 quarts. So this recipe requires 6 quarts English measures of water. "Brose."* (Dr. Gordon Stables's Recipe.) Have the kettle not simply boiling, but rattling its lid; then place about 2 handfuls of medium oatmeal in a basin big enough to hold double that quantity, and over this 1½ teaspoonfuls of salt. Hold this in front of the fire for a few moments to heat. Pour the boiling water (not too much) on it, and stir well up with a fork. The stirring is the principal thing. When made it should be very thick indeed. To eat it, float a large piece of butter (fresh or salt) in the centre, eat it with a spoon, and have some nice creamy milk to cool the mouth. Brose cannot be eaten too hot. Broth for a Child. See Invalid Cookery.

Calf's Tail Soup.

Three calves' tails, as they are small, are wanted for enough soup for a party. Blanch them in water (do not use that water in the soup); then place the tails in boiling stock to simmer till tender; then take them out to cool. Have some white soup made as usual, flavoured and thickened with a nice smooth roux.

Some cooks advise the addition of a glass of sherry which has lost its spirit by warming over the fire.

Others add a liaison of 2 strained yolks of egg in hot cream, ½ pt. of which is added just before serving the soup.

Serve the warmed and jointed meat in the soup.

See also Oxtail Soup.

Carlton House Soup is a very good consommé with Carlton House Balls in it. For these latter, see Garnishings for Soup.

Carrot Soup. No. 1.

Take the red part of 10 large carrots; also 2 turnips; and blanch them in water. Put into a stewpan 1 large leek, 2 sticks of celery, 2 onions, also a slice of lean ham and a piece of butter; then set the pan on the stove. Drain the carrots and turnips, and add them to the other vegetables; also 1 qt. of good white stock, and part of a French roll. Let all boil slowly till well done; then skim and pass all through a tammy, pounding the ham and putting it through also with the vegetables. Add more stock if too thick, and a little sugar. Also Italian paste if liked, and some scalded cream.

Carrot Soup. No. 2. (Mrs. Lyall.) Make a strong gravy soup of beef and veal, and when cold take off the fat; then take a little of the soup and boil in it 2 French rolls and 3 large carrots till quite soft; rub them through a tammy. Warm the rest of the soup, and add it to the carrots; stir it well together and boil ¼ hour.

When you send it to table, put into the tureen the yolk of 1 egg well beaten and a little cream; stir it whilst pouring it into the soup; season to your taste. (Mrs. Whyte's Carrot Soup is similar, but she uses only the yellow part of the carrots, and boils the roll in milk, not stock, and uses 1 pt. of cream to 6 large carrots. Lady Parke says, "Cut carrots in pieces before boiling in broth, then pound in a mortar and mix with gravy soup, no egg - no cream.") * Jamieson's Scottish Dictionary describes "Brose" as a kind of pottage made by pouring water or broth on meal which is stirred while the liquid is poured in.

Carrot Soup. No. 3. (Birk Hall.) Cut off the red part of several carrots, add ½ doz. onions sliced, 2 sticks of celery sliced, and a small teaspoonful of peppercorns. Put them in a stewpan; add a beef bone, cooked or fresh, if you have it left from a sirloin or ribs; it must be cut in pieces the size of your clenched fist, and add also 2 ozs. lean ham or knuckle of bacon cut in small bits the size of dice.

Cover bone and vegetable with second stock. Should you, however, have no stock ready, you may use water; but avoid water if possible; put the lid of the stewpan on tight and boil all, close covered, for 3 hours, then strain through a tammy. Return it to the stewpan to warm up; add a lump of sugar and a very small pinch of salt; before taking it off the fire draw it to one side and when off the boil stir in a little cream.

This soup is good of second stock alone, but even then a cooked bone added makes it rich; an uncooked beef bone and stock is best of all, but it is a pity not to make clear soup if the uncooked bone is large enough. Treat it then like shin soup meat. Carrot Soup. No. 4. Mr. Courteney's "Potage à la Crécy." Cut off the red parts of several carrots; to them add ½ the quantity of turnips, a leek or a Spanish onion sliced thin, and some celery also sliced. Cut all the vegetables up into very small pieces, and stew them slowly, with a slice of butter; stir constantly that they may not burn. When they are quite tender, rub them through a sieve, having previously diluted them with the desired quantity of stock. Add the inside of a French roll.

Add 2 lumps of sugar. Let all simmer gently 2 hours. Add some cream before serving, and hand round dice - shaped pieces of bread, which have been fried in butter and well dried on a cloth so as not to be greasy. Carrot Soup. For Rice to go with Carrot Soup, see Rice, under Soup Garnishings. Cheap Soup. (Miss Onslow.) Simmer 4 lbs. of lean beef in 4 qts. of water 4 hours, skimming it. Add turnips, carrots, celery, onions, pepper, salt and pearl barley, till the vegetables are quite soft. Serve very hot with the meat in it.

Chestnut Soup. (Mrs. Challen.) 1 pt. of chestnuts blanched and put through a sieve; then boiled with stock and passed through the sieve again; 1 lump of sugar and seasoning and a little cream added, "onions intilt" if liked.

Chicken Soup. No. 1. "À la Reine." (Roxburgh Hotel, Edinburgh. 1887.) This is an old Scotch recipe. 2 qts. of good strong chicken stock; cut up and add 1 carrot, 1 head of celery, 2 onions, 1 sprig of marjoram, a blade of mace, and some whole white pepper. Boil 15 minutes and strain through a hair sieve. To thicken it, have butter and flour in a stewpan, and cook them together first 10 minutes or more, to take off the raw flavour of the flour, then add the purée to it, and bring all to the boil.

Warm well a teacupful of sweet cream and put it into a well - heated tureen, pouring in the soup and stirring it gently round. [You can make the stock of veal, pheasant, rabbit, or partridge instead of chicken if you wish, but Rabbit Soup "à la Reine" is different, see Rabbit Soup No. 4.] Chicken Soup. No. 2. Brown. (Mrs. Fisher, Pitlochrie.) For this use a hen (old will do, or a cock), 3 lbs. of shin of beef, which is just browned, also onions, carrots, and a little mace; thicken the soup with arrowroot. Chicken Soup. No. 3. (Emslie's. 1891.) 1 chicken boiled with vegetables roughly cut as for soup; add, if liked, 2 oz. of fat and lean ham chopped and boiled with the fowl, and any uncooked trimmings of rabbits, or even fresh uncooked bones of lamb, and a few white peppercorns. The stock (3 pts.) is skimmed and strained and left to get cold.

When wanted, boil ½ hour with a finely - chopped parsley - leaf, a dessertspoonful of small sago, and a pinch of celery salt; when off the boil add a dessertspoonful of cream and the yolks of 3 fresh eggs; never thicken with flour; you can vary with vermicelli well broken up, or semolina, instead of sago.

Chicken Soup. No. 4. (Of Chicken Bones). "Potage à la Reine," for Four or Six People.

Put 2 ozs. butter in a stewpan, a tablespoonful of flour, and 1 qt. of cold water. Let them boil, stirring all the while.

Then add the uncooked bones and heads of 3 chickens, all carefully cleaned and bits of skin taken off, and, as soon as the other things boil, 2 ozs. of ham or knuckle of bacon cut in dice; if the bones have been previously cooked the soup must have second stock instead of water.

With the ham and chicken bones put in 2 sliced carrots and 4 sliced onions, a sliced stick of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and 1½ teaspoonful of white peppercorns. All must simmer together for 3 hours, then pound any meat left on the bones and pass through the sieve, or strain through a tammy, also the celery and onions, and warm up in a clean stewpan.

When off the boil, add cream.

This soup can be made the day after "poulet sauté"; or turkey bones instead of chicken bones will do for this soup.

Chicken Soup. No. 5. "Friar's Chicken."

Boil a chicken very slowly in a small quantity of water. Take it out and remove all the nice white parts. Put the back and legs again into the soup to improve it, and add some ground rice. Pull the white of the fowl into small pieces, and add it to the soup with a spoonful or two of cream, and very little pepper and salt. When quite ready to serve strain it and stir in the yolks of 2 new-laid eggs, but the soup must then be off the boil, and it must not boil after this addition. Use rabbit instead of fowl if more convenient.

Chicken Soup. See also Rabbit Soup, No. 3.

Clear Soup from Fresh Meat.

The most usual way of making clear soup is: Cut the meat in pieces and fry in a spoonful of dripping till brown. Pour on cold water, 1 quart to each lb. of meat, and 1½ teaspoonful salt. Bring to the boil skim off any white scum and simmer very gently 3 hours. Then add to each quart 3 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, celery or celery seed, small bouquet "garni," a few cloves and a few peppercorns. Simmer another 3 hours and strain off through a cloth. Clear Soups from Second Stock. (Birk Hall.) For clear soups second stock may be warmed up, and then clarified with 2 beaten up whites of egg, then strained, and served with rice, Italian paste, tapioca, macaroni, or semolina in it, which all make well - flavoured clear soups. If you use rice: Wash the rice first, then boil it in water; the water should be boiling when you put the rice in, taking 2 tablespoonfuls of rice for each quart of soup; boil 20 minutes, then strain, and let it get cold. Put the rice into the soup tureen, pour the hot soup over, giving it one good stir. Hand grated Parmesan cheese with it when served.

If you use macaroni you will want 3 ozs. of macaroni to 1 qt. of the second stock. Put it first into boiling water, and let it boil for 1½ hour. Then drain it, cut it up and put it into the tureen, pouring the hot soup over it. Hand grated Parmesan with this soup. Macaroni white soup made with veal stock is similar, but is thickened with flour cooked in butter.

Italian paste, "melon seed" paste or vermicelli, have merely to boil up alone 10 minutes in boiling water, or, better still, in stock, then add before the soup is taken off the fire. This will cook them enough.

Hand grated Parmesan with this soup also.

Tapioca makes a good clear soup with second stock, but, of course, first stock is better.

Take a tablespoonful of tapioca and 1 qt. of stock; let both simmer together for 1 hour, then season and serve. [Do not hand cheese with tapioca soup.] For semolina clear soup made with this second stock, take a teacupful of semolina to 2 qts. of soup; veal stock is best if to be had. Boil for 1½ hour. Second stock is excellent for sauces, for glaze reduced in a stewpan as quickly as possible, or for thick vegetable soups.

The soup meat as used in Bagshot Clear Soup is again drawn down, i.e., second stock, for these thick vegetable soups. It is better to add 2 ozs. of fresh ham cut in dice. Draw down the bones also for second stock.

Clear Soup. To Freshen. (I. Emslie. 1891.) Cut up ¼ lb. of fresh raw beef in dice; whisk the whites of 2 or even 3 eggs in a small teacupful of cold water; add this liquid to the other things (i.e., meat and stock); add also a little raw carrot, onion, celery, 1 clove, 2 peppercorns, bit of mace, 2 allspice, a bit of bay - leaf, and put all on the fire and whip till it boils; then draw to the side of the fire to simmer uncovered 1 hour. Strain through a soup cloth. Should you have no celery, add a little celery salt. Cockie Leekie. No. 1. (Meg Dod's.) When leeks are tender, blanch and clean 6 large or 9 small leeks, and cut them in inch lengths, rejecting the coarse green parts. Take 3 pts. of good beef gravy strained (drawn down from 4 to 6 lbs. shin of beef well broken). Put to it a good - sized fowl trussed for boiling, and when it boils put in ½ the quantity of the leeks. Skim carefully, and in another ½ hour add the remainder of the leeks, with pepper and salt. The soup must be a green purée of leeks which are passed through a tammy. The capon is either served whole in the tureen, or taken out and the prime parts jointed and put back in the soup, whichever you prefer.

Cockie Leekie. No. 2. (Isa. Emslie. 1891.) The stock is mainly of any luncheon chickens which have been boiled with vegetables and a little ham and trimmings of rabbit; also, when convenient, add to this fowl stock a teacupful of first stock, in all about 2 qts. of stock. You will require the white part of 1 doz. leeks, and, if tender, a little of the green leaf also, all cut in pieces, 1 inch long; stew leeks in stock 1 hour, with cover on. 1 doz. prunes should be cooked, cover on, in other stock 14 hours till tender, powdered with a dessertspoonful of sugar; drain and let them get cold, then stone them, but keep their shape. Add the prunes to the leeks and the soup to heat up in the pot just before it goes off the stove into a well-heated tureen. Flavour the soup to taste-before the prunes go into it. Cockie Leekie. No. 3. (Sir Stafford Northcote's Scotch Cook. 1876.) This needs an old fowl and 3 lbs. knuckle of veal.

Boil 3 hours, strain, take off grease and clarify the broth with a little beef. Shred the white part of 8 leeks. Blanch in water 10 minutes, and put them into the soup with some slices from the breast of a chicken. Stew some prunes with a little of the veal stock, and hand them round separately on a soup plate when the soup is helped, as some like them in soup and others do not.

Cockie Leekie. No. 4. (Mrs. Jamieson. 1885.) Clean 2 doz. young leeks; cut the white part of them into 1 inch lengths; blanch them, and put them on one side till wanted.

Have some good stock made from shin of beef or from knuckle of veal even the boilings of fresh beef will answer equally well if it is strong enough, but for this soup good stock is necessary.

About 3 hours before dinner put the leeks on to cook with this stock; also have a fowl (the prime parts of it that is to say) neatly jointed, and add it to the soup. Should the fowl be old, it will have to go into the pot at the same time as the leeks; should it be a young chicken, it will of course be added later, just giving time enough for it to cook; season to taste.

Stone and stew 1 doz. French prunes early in the day, and add them to the soup at the last to heat up.

The soup is served with the leeks, pieces of fowl, and prunes all in it. Scotch name for Crab Broth. (Learney.) Crab Soup. "Partan Bree." (See Appendix as regards crabs.) Pick all the meat from 2 crabs, except that in the large claws; boil 5½ ozs. of whole rice in milk till soft, but not to a pulp, and pass it with the crab - meat through a tammy into a basin; stir with a wooden spoon till perfectly smooth. Add to it in the basin, very gradually, sufficient white unseasoned stock for a party of 12 or 14; season with salt, white pepper, and anchovy; put all into a pan, and stir over the fire till quite hot, but do not let it boil; add pieces of meat from the claws, and just before serving stir 1½ pt. of cream into the tureen.

This must not be as thick as a purée, or it will be too rich. Crab Soup. See also Lobster Soup.

Crème d'Orge," a barley soup; for recipe see Barley for Soups, under Garnishings for Soups.

Curry Soup. (Mrs. Jamieson's.) Stock is made of an old hen, strengthened and clarified with minced raw beef. You flavour it with minced onion and chopped apple, both uncooked, and later on add curry powder, and let it cook in the soup; clear it like beef tea, strain, and serve; hand rice round with it on a hot plate. The rice is cooked like rice for "Kari à la Baboo," see Curries. For another Rice see Garnishings for Soups. Eel Soup - "Jersey Eel Soup." (Miss Woollett.) (See Appendix about Eels.) To 2 lbs. of fish take 2 qts. of water. Boil 1½ hours. Take out the fish, and add to the soup a handful of young peas, the same of marigold flowers, a dessertspoonful of leeks, the same of onions, the same of thyme; all chopped small and well floured; ½ lb. of butter, and ½ pt. of milk. Give 20 minutes' more boiling before dishing. Season with pepper and salt. "Faubonne Soup." (Mrs. Jamieson, Portmore.) 3 Peel 6 good carrots, remove the core from them and cut the red part (only) in thin slices, or if more convenient use artichokes instead of carrots. Cut up 2 leeks, 2 onions, 2 turnips, and a little celery in the same manner; add a bunch of herbs and a few peppercorns, and fry all together in 2 ozs. of butter without discolouring them; add tablespoonfuls of "Crème d'Orge" (see Barley, under Garnishings for Soups), or "Crème de Riz," add 2 qts. of ordinary stock; let it come to the boil first, then simmer for 2 hours by the side of the stove; pass through the tammy, and to each pint of soup allow ½ pt. of cream, 2 raw yolks of egg, and 12 oz. of butter; stir till it thickens, strain into the tureen, and add little cream quenelles; add also a few drops of carmine to give it colour (pink). "Feather Fowlie." No. 1. (Isa. Emslie. 1893.) A luncheon soup. The name is a corruption of "Œufs Filés." Take 1 fresh fowl; joint it, and lay the pieces to soak for 1½ hour, well covered by cold water in which is a dessertspoonful of salt; next wash it well under the tap, and put it into a stewpan with a slice of ham, fat and lean, a stick of celery cut up, an onion cut up, thyme, parsley, and a bit of mace. Cover all with 1 qt. of cold water; put the lid on and let it boil up; then draw to the side to cook more gently for 1½ hours; strain off, and at once clear off all the grease with paper. Put it into another stewpan, and add a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley and a ladleful of first stock all to heat up 15 minutes; add minced white meat of chicken. When taken off the fire, stir in 3 strained yolks of egg and a dessertspoonful of warmed cream. Have soup tureen ready very hot. "Feather Fowlie," No. 2. (1888.) If you have 2 chickens, boil one of them in 2 oz. cold water, with 1 onion, 1 carrot, and celery, and keep the liquor it boiled in; when this fowl comes down from the dining room keep also any white bits that may be left on it. Joint the second chicken, carcass and all, and use the livers and gizzards of both; cover all with the chicken stock of the first fowl, just as it is, adding 1 raw whole onion, 1 raw whole carrot, and a little celery, 6 white peppercorns; add some raw ham also, and if the chicken stock is not enough, add a ladleful of fresh water, or of pork liquor, drawn from uncooked bones and trimmings, or veal stock, mutton stock, or failing that, second stock, but white stock looks best. This stock must be enough to cover all; put the lid on, and let it just come to the boil; then simmer uncovered 1 hour at the side of the stove, strain off and pick out all nice white meat for use. Return liquor and white meat to the pan, add a little pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley - leaf, blanched and well squeezed in a cloth, all to simmer, still uncovered, ½ hour, then take off and stir in quickly 2 whole raw eggs. Stir, one way only, quickly, and serve in a very hot tureen. Anything with egg must not boil, and chills quickly. Do not have too much chicken meat in soup if for dinner - more if for luncheon. "Fish and Sauce." See Fish Soup, No. 3.

Fish Soup. No. 1. (Auchintorlie.) Take 2 or 3 fresh haddock; trim them and cut them in good sized fillets; keep these till the soup is ready. Put the trimmings and bones of the fish in a pan with some good broth (in Scotland this broth is entirely made of skate and ling), 1 large onion, a blade of mace, a few peppercorns, and a sprig of thyme.

Boil all well together, 20 minutes to ½ hour, then strain; add the quantity you may require of some good beef stock, a large spoonful of anchovy sauce, the same of mushroom catsup, a little white pepper, and a good handful of green parsley leaf chopped fine and well squeezed in a clean cloth to press out the bitter juice. Put in the fish fillets and boil rather more than 10 minutes. Thicken the soup with a good piece of butter rolled in flour, cooked 5 minutes over a slow fire, and stirred all the time, and serve the soup with the pieces of fish in it. Fish Soup. No. 2. (Mrs. Brandreth. 1890.) 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan with 4 sliced onions, 2 large or 4 small sour apples, a bunch of herbs (such as thyme, parsley, bay-leaf) and let all fry together till a nice golden colour. Then mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 of essence of tamarinds, 1 of curry paste, a little lemon juice, and 3 qts. of good fish stock, and any very fresh, uncooked, fishbones you may have; all to cook ³¼ hour, then strain, and let it get cool; then clarify and strain through a clean soup cloth, and boil up. Serve with a dish of rice piled high, and fillets of cooked sole all cut one shape, as a border round the rice. Garnish with chopped parsley. Fish Soup. No. 3. "Fish and Sauce," as at Indego. (The Scotch name for Fish Soup.) Use cod or haddock - the best flakes are put whole into the soup; head, bones, &c., are boiled and drawn down to make good stock of itself- none other added; season and strain; thicken with a little cornflour; add the flakes of fish. Put a teacupful of cream in tureen, and a little finely minced parsley-leaf; add the hot stock, stirring all the time.

Serve in a hot tureen.

Fish Soup. No. 4. (A. Young.) Of turbot, haddock or cod.

Cut the fish from the bones; let the bones boil 2 hours, then strain the liquor through a fine sieve; to it add some good strong beef stock, and make it as thick as mock turtle. Add 2 spoonfuls of mushroom catsup, 2 of anchovy, and 1 of soy; pepper and salt if you like.

Cut the fish into small pieces, and let it simmer ¼ hour in the soup. Mince some green onions, and chop a little leaf of parsley, add both to the soup just before serving. French Bean Soup. "String" some French beans, boil them in salt and water; when done, drain, and cut them into lozenge shapes. Make some well - flavoured clear stock, boiling hot; add the beans to it and serve. "Friar's Chicken." See Chicken Soup, No. 5.

Game Soup.

Put any remains of game in a saucepan with onion, carrot, 3 cloves, a small bit of mace, a bay - leaf, parsley, pepper and salt. Cover them with stock, and let all boil gently 2 hours; strain off the stock and set it to boil again; then throw in 1 oz. of coarsely chopped raw beef. Give one boil up and strain all through a napkin. If not quite clear repeat this clarifying process, and a very small quantity of sherry may be put in before doing this. "Gerstenschleim." See Barley Soup.

Giblet Soup as at Trebah. (From Undercliffe House. 1881.) Stew the giblets (i.e., head, neck, feet, gizzard, liver, heart, &c., "all the parts of a goose that are left behind when it goes to the spit to be roasted"), in 3 pts. of water, and cook until the gizzard is tender, by which time all the other parts are sure to be well done; a little thyme should be used to flavour, and salt and pepper to season; strain the liquor, and when it is cold remove all fat and grease. Cut up the cold giblets into small pieces ready to add to the soup when required.

Beef stock must be added to the giblet stock, in quantity according to the number of diners; the beef stock to be of course flavoured with vegetables, onion, &c. Add the minced giblets to the combined stocks. Heat well, and serve as hot as possible. Have ready some light and delicate suet and flour dumplings, the size of a large walnut, well boiled and tender, to be served in the soup; allow 2 or more for each person.

Add the freshly made dumplings to the soup when it is in the tureen. Gravy Soup - Clear.

Put in first at the bottom of the stewpan 2 ozs. butter, sliced celery and carrot (no turnip), 3 large whole onions, one of them stuck over with cloves, a bunch of herbs, some peppercorns. Also 4 qts. of water. Add to this 4 lbs. fresh gravy beef, 1½ lbs. veal, 1½ lbs. scrag of mutton cut in pieces the size of your fist, a little ham cut small as dice, or 3 anchovies.

Set all on the fire to simmer very gently for 7 or 8 hours; skim it and put it by till next day.

Clear off all the fat first with a spoon, then with a napkin, and, if not very clear when warmed up, clarify with white of egg, and if you like flavour with a little mace. Serve with Custard Dice (see Garnishings for Soups), peas, or asparagus points; well boil and drain these vegetables first.

Grouse Soup. See Birk Hall Excursion Pie, under Meat Pies and Puddings. Grouse Soup. No. 1. Clear. (Mrs. Evans, Birk Hall.) (Grandpapa grouse, too tough for table, makes this soup best. — C.C.) Calculate 1 grouse for 3 people; this recipe is therefore for 9. The soup should be a clear amber colour if made the day before wanted.

Pluck and draw three birds and clean them thoroughly; then joint them and put all the pieces, especially the backs, into a stock pot. Add 2 carrots sliced, 1 head of celery sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, add onions if liked, a blade of mace, a teaspoonful of peppercorns; pour 2 or 3 qts. of cold water over all; simmer for 2 hours carefully, and if possible allow it to remain till next day. When wanted, skim and strain through a tammy.

After pouring it into a hot soup tureen add a pinch of salt and a lump of sugar. Give it a good stir, to mix, before serving. Add Custard Dice (see Garnishings for Soups). Emslie's recipe for clear Grouse soup has some variations: Have 3 old birds; take off the fillets and make of them grouse cream quenelles to add in tureen at the last; chop up the whole of the rest of the birds, especially the backs, and add soup vegetables and herbs, i.e., thyme, parsley, bay-leaf, with peppercorns and mace, and put all in a well-buttered pan to draw down, without water, on the stove, covered, for 10 min. Then take the cover off and leave the pan on the hot plate, shaking and stirring from time to time till it almost crackles, i.e., from 20 min. to 1 hour according to strength of fire. Then add 3 pts. of water; let it come to the boil and then draw down gently for about 2 hours.

Strain through a strainer, but do not clarify.

Grouse cream quenelles, cooked but cold, in tureen; pour soup over them. Truffle them if possible.

Thick soup (see Grouse Soup, No. 5) requires far fewer birds than are needed for this clear soup.

Grouse Soup. No. 2. Clear - Ingleboro' Recipe for 12 People. Take 12 grouse, and truss 6 of them; cut the fillets of the other 6 and keep for an entrée; chop up the bones and 3 lbs. each of veal and ham; put these and whole grouse together; cover with cold water; skim well. Before it boils add carrot, turnip, celery, a tiny bit of mace, 6 cloves, and white pepper.

Let it simmer 4 hours, and strain through a fine sieve or cloth; then cut up the trussed grouse into small pieces, and serve with brown bread-crumbs. Grouse Soup. No. 3. (Mrs. Wellington's.) This takes one whole cooked grouse, and any bones of grouse, cooked or not, all pounded together and fried in butter with cut vegetables and sweet herbs; when well browned cover with second stock and simmer for some time; then pick out bones and bouquet and pass through a tammy. Add a small glass of claret, and let it boil up. If you have a young uncooked bird you can add the breast cut in slices - if an old one, you can make game quenelles of that meat and serve in the soup. Grouse Soup. No. 4. Thick. (Isa. Emslie. 1891.) This recipe is to use up cooked grouse.

Take 1 whole bird and the bones of another; cut off all the meat to use later; cut up the carcasses of the birds and draw them down with soup vegetables i.e., celery, onions, thyme, and parsley. Then cover with 2 pts. of clear stock; put cover on, and let all simmer 2 hours; strain and let the liquor get cold and take off all grease. Put on again 1 hour before dinner, with a dessertspoonful of tapioca to boil, covered, 1 hour. The grouse meat must have been carefully picked and pounded, and as you pound, mix smooth with a little hot stock; add it then to the soup in the pot to heat and blend before serving.

Grouse Soup. No. 5. Thick.

This is made the same as grouse soup No. 1, but, instead of straining, rub it, meat and all, through the tammy with a spoon (2 fine birds will do for 9 people). Put it into a stewpan and thicken with 2 spoonfuls of flour, cooked 5 minutes over the fire in 1 oz. of butter; stir flour and butter the whole time.

A glass of red wine can be added if liked, or add Custard Dice - see Garnishings for Soups.

Grouse Soup. No. 6. Excellent. Thick. (Isa. Emslie. 1894.) Two uncooked birds, 2 pts. of first stock, and the same amount of water (2 qts. in all of liquid), also a slice of ham without its skin, raw celery, raw onion, peppercorns, cloves and mace. No carrot.

Let all boil up, then simmer 1 hour. Skim now and again, but have the lid on the pot between times.

Next add to it a teacupful of sago; Emslie prefers sago to bread, she thinks bread makes the soup "curdle"; cook another hour, and stir oftener than before, as sago is apt to go into lumps.

Strain into a basin, taking the birds out, to get cold by themselves. Pick off all the meat, and pound it, adding it to the grouse - flavoured stock. Pass it through the tammy at dinner time, and add a teacupful of cream to warm up with this soup at the last.

Hare Soup. No. 1. (Auchintorlie.) Pound the meat of a cooked hare, but if there is a good deal of meat, more than will be required to make the soup, then keep a few nicely cut pieces to warm up in the soup when ready to serve.

Flour the pounded meat, and add 3 pts. of gravy or of soup; chop an onion very small; stew all for 20 minutes.

Just before serving add a wineglassful of boiling port wine, and a little cayenne. Add the pieces of meat, and serve.

Hare Soup No. 2. (Ballindalloch.) Skin the hare and take out the blood, &c., then wash the hare in a little cold water, to save any blood that may remain about it. Mix this water with the blood till you have about 5 pts. Then put into a rather large pan on the fire 12 tablespoonfuls of butter and dust into it 1½ spoonfuls of flour from a dredge-box. Stir the butter and flour round till well melted, mixed and lightly browned. Then pour the blood through a strainer, stir carefully while you are pouring in the liquid with the pan off the fire. Then you must keep stirring, to prevent the blood separating, till it boils. Then put in the hare, which must be cut in pieces (but not washed after it is cut) also a carrot and 3 onions, the whole to boil very slowly for 3½ hours, then pour the whole through a hair sieve. Pick out the nicest pieces of the meat to be put in the soup. (The remainder may be put to any other use.) The liquid which has been strained must now be well skimmed and the pan washed, it is poured into it again. Season with salt and pepper. Put the pieces of selected meat into the soup and boil it slowly for ³¼ of an hour, when it will be ready and can stand aside till required.

Hare Soup. No. 3. (Mrs. Brandreth. 1885.) This recipe is the missing link between Hare Soup and Jugged Hare. Skin; save the blood; wipe the hare; cut it in small pieces and fry in butter with a sliced onion till browned, ¼ or ½ hour; put it in a brown stone jar; cover it with good stock, another onion, and sweet herbs; stew for about 3 hours, thicken the gravy with 1½ dessertspoonfuls flour, add the blood, ½ pt. beer, and a glass of port wine if wished, also add a small teaspoonful mushroom catsup. Put the bits of hare into a very hot tureen, and strain the soup over it; add a teaspoonful of currant jelly; help it into soup plates, and offer currant jelly to each person to eat with it.

Hare Soup. No. 4. Clear.

For Clear Hare Soup, skin and wash the hare well, then cut it in pieces. Add 2 large onions, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 stick celery, about 4 ozs. of raw ham, 2 blades of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of peppercorns, a glass of wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 qts. of cold water. Cover close and set over the fire to simmer till all the strength is drawn. If it boils quickly it will spoil. An old hare will require 2½ hours. Take everything out, but do not skim this soup. Strain through a napkin. "Hodge-podge." No. 1. For Luncheon. (Lady Murray.) For this you will want a neck of mutton.

Use the scrag and any spare pieces and trimmings of meat, beef or mutton, as for Scotch broth; boil it 1½ hours, then skim, and strain the broth from the bones. Have ready nearly equal quantities of green peas, celery, cauliflower, carrots and turnip, and a double quantity of onions, all cut the size of dice. Add a few more pieces of beef and the cutlets of the neck of mutton, nicely trimmed, all to be put into the broth with, if approved, a sprig of mint, and simmered VERY GENTLY till the vegetables are tender and mellow. The great secret of success is to cook it slowly! Serve in a soup tureen. "Hodge-podge." No. 2. 3 lbs. of fresh mutton (back, ribs, neck, or breast), cut in pieces as for a pie. Boil 1 hour in 3 pts. of water. Then add the vegetables to boil 2 hours more. One large carrot grated, and 2 smaller minced; sliced turnips; plenty of onions; 1 lettuce; some green leaf of parsley, and a pt. of green peas. Keep back some peas to add nearer the end. Boil well, and skim carefully; then add the rest of the peas, and season before you dish with a little white pepper. Serve when thick in a tureen, with the meat in it. Or you may make it with mutton stock, and add cutlets when almost ready. White cabbage, asparagus, and cauliflower may be added if you like. Invalid's Soup. See Invalid Cookery.

Julienne Soup. No. 1. A Good Recipe.

Slice carrots, turnips, celery, onions or shallot, cabbage-lettuce, asparagus, a little tarragon and chervil, or any other good vegetable in pieces the size of a small kidney bean. Also chop up some green parsley - leaf very fine. Put a little butter in the bottom of a stewpan and lay these vegetables over it. Stew them well over a slow fire, turning them often to prevent their burning, but cover the stewpan close till done.

When the vegetables are soft and look yellow, add, if you are making "Soupe Julienne Gras", 2 tumblerfuls of very hot but not quite boiling stock and simmer all gently 10 minutes.

Then add as much more very hot stock as you want soup, also a large lump of sugar. Give all a good stir, after adding the sugar, before serving. For Soup "Julienne Maigre" the recipe is the same except that you use boiling water where in the above you add stock.

Julienne Soup. No. 2. "Potage Julienne." (l'Été, Rue Castiglione.) Have some really good stock well prepared, and carrots sufficient for the quantity of soup you intend to make, two-thirds fewer turnips than carrots, 1 onion, some celery and some leeks; cut all these vegetables into narrow, long strips, leaving out the core of the carrots. Fry them all in butter till a good colour, drain off the butter, and moisten with a glassful of stock; add a small handful of sorrel, the leaves of a lettuce, and a handful of peas if in season.

Also add tarragon or chervil if you wish and 1 lump of white sugar. Boil all together, and reduce till all liquid is lost, which is called bringing into jelly ("tomber à glace"). Add this to some stock previously drawn, and boil gently in order to skim off the fat and get the soup clear. Season and serve. Julienne Soup. No. 3. (Mrs. Farrer.) This soup must be made the day before it is required. To make 3 qts. take 6 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 7 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 lb. of ham, a small bunch of sweet herbs, 4 onions, 1 large carrot, 2 blades of mace, a few cloves and peppercorns, a little salt, 5 qts. of water.

Boil 9 hours.

The next day take sliced turnips and carrots, plenty of tarragon and chervil, also asparagus and lettuce, and fry them in butter till tender and well flavoured. Take all fat carefully from the soup, heat it and throw these previously boiled vegetables into it, skim off all grease carefully, add a dessertspoonful of brown sugar and stir round before serving. 4½ lbs. of shin of beef and 3½ lbs. of knuckle of veal will fill a tureen. Julienne Soup. See also "Winter Julienne Soup," and Julienne Vegetables under Garnishings for Soups. "Kail Brose."

Take 2 lbs. of kail well washed.

Have water boiling with a little salt in it, and put the kail in, and, if possible, also a fresh shank bone.

The boiling water must be suffieient to cover all. Now put the lid on the pot and let all boil ½ hour. Take 2 teacupfuls of raw oatmeal, a pinch of salt, 2 ozs. of fresh butter, and 1 pt. of the "bree" from the kail, stir them all well together one way, for 10 minutes, and then pour in ¼ pt. more "bree"; take away the shank bone, then the "brose" is ready.

Strain the kail, but save the liquor. Chop the kail or pass it through a sieve, and add the third of a teacupful of raw oatmeal and ½ pt. of the strained kail "bree," all these to cook together for fully 10 minutes. Brose and kail are served up at the same time, but separate; eat brose first. Before serving the kail add to it ½ teacupful of warmed cream. Kidney Soup. (Mrs. Jamieson, Portmore. 1887.)_ Cut up an ox kidney into 10 or 12 pieces; season with pepper and salt; dredge with flour, and lay them in a well-buttered stewpan; set them on a brisk fire, giving them an occasional toss up till they are all well browned. Then add to them some good stock and let them simmer gently till tender; put them into a good brown soup which has been thickened with a little roux, and, when about to dish, add a glass of port wine, a squeeze of lemon, and 12 cooked mushrooms. "Lambs' Stove." (An Auchentorlie soup.) A very old Scotch recipe.

Clean and blanch the lamb's head; stew it in broth, or in water with a scrag of mutton, till tender; add minced parsley, green onions, a good deal of mashed spinach; thicken with yolks of egg and put large wide leaves of well-cooked spinach also whole in it.

Serve the lamb's head and the soup together, in a tureen; the head may be divided, but is not boned.

Leek Broth. See Invalid Cookery.

Lentil Soup. (Mrs. Wood. 1880.) Egyptian yellow lentils are used; they are soaked all night in water - 1 pt. of lentils to 2 qts. of thin stock will be the right proportion. Make the soup exactly the same way as split pea soup. See Pea Soup No. 1.

Lettuce and Sorrel Soup. ("Gras.") "Potage à la bonne femme." Put the sliced hearts of 4 well washed cabbages, lettuces and a handful of sliced sorrel into a stewpan with 2 ozs. of butter and stir ten minutes over a slow fire, for they must not brown, add 1 qt. of cold broth drawn from the carcasses of fowl or rabbit. with hams, herbs, &c. Let all boil ½ hour - skimming the whole time - strain 3 yolks of egg into a basin with ½ pt. of warm cream let the soup be hot, but off the boil add a little of the soup first to this liaison, stirring it one way, then turn the mixture into the rest of the soup.

Have "crusts" of French roll cut into shape and made crisp in the oven, ready in the heated tureen, and pour the soup over them.

This is enough for 8 people.

Lobster Soup.

Any remains of cooked lobster, from a former dinner will do, or even crab picked. (Regarding cooking Lobsters and Crabs, see Appendix.) Put a piece of butter into the stewpan with onion, celery, a large handful of spinach, a cucumber, and green peas, if you can procure them. Stew all, till soft, over a slow fire, and rub through a tammy; return it to the stewpan, add pepper and salt, a spoonful of essence of anchovies, some good stock, and the pieces of lobster. Take off the fat as it rises.

When very hot it will be fit for table. "Melon Seed Paste" Soup. See Semolina Soup, No. 2.

Milanese Soup. See "Risotto."

Milk Soup. No. 1. (Mrs. Weston, Clach-na-darroch.) The only stock required for this soup is the water in which a silverside of beef has been boiled - after lying 24 hours in salt. Take off all the fat. Take 2 qts. of the broth, 8 carrots, 3 turnips, and 6 onions, all the vegetables sliced, also a teaspoonful of white peppercorns; simmer all three hours, then rub through a sieve.

To 1 qt. of broth add 1 pt. of milk; thicken with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour mixed and boiled in 1 oz. butter, cooked 5 minutes over a slow fire and stirred all the time. Season if necessary.

Let it boil up once, stirring it all the time.

A little cream is a great improvement.

Milk Soup. No. 2. Without Stock - "Maigre." (Mrs. Thomas.) Enough for 8 people.

Slice 6 turnips into cold water - put 3 or 4 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, add the turnips, a stick of celery sliced, a large onion sliced, any mushrooms or their peelings, a whole carrot, a second onion stuck with 3 cloves and (for Protestants) 2 ozs. of ham. Cover close and shake the pan gently over the fire 10 minutes or more. Heat through, then cover with warm milk and add a whole French roll with the crust pared off, or a piece of bread same size, a teacupful of whole rice well washed, sago, tapioca, or pearl barley, whichever preferred, also a bouquet of 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig each of parsley, tarragon, and thyme. (Onion, turnip, carrot, all want bread added to thicken the soup, but you will not want bread if potatoes or peas are the vegetable used.) Simmer till all are tender, then take out ham, whole onion, bouquet and carrot, and pass the rest through a tammy.

Have a pinch of sugar in a heated tureen, and give one stir when the soup is poured over it.

This does for all "maigre" vegetable soups except Sorrel (see Sorrel Soup). Mock Turtle Soup. No. 1. (Beechwood.) Take a cow's heel, cut it in pieces, and clean it from the bone. Cut ½ lb. of leg of veal into small bits, and fry them in butter till they are brown. Take 1 lb. of gravy beef.

Put all these in a stewpan, with 2 qts. of boiling water, a little thyme, parsley, onion, and lemon peel; let it boil gently 3 hours; then add a little cayenne and a little Jamaica pepper; if liked a gill of sherry, but a little sugar before it is served up is better than the wine.

Take out the gravy beef the last thing. Squeeze in the juice of 1½ lemon, and add hard-boiled yolks of egg and forcemeat balls to the soup. Mock Turtle Soup. No. 2. Clear - Richmond. (Mrs. Sherwood.) If you want clear Mock Turtle Soup, use the hind leg of veal with the gristle, 6 lbs. Cut the bone small, with 4 ozs. lean ham, 2 ozs. butter, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 1 stick of celery, 3 onions, one of them stuck with 4 cloves, a bunch of herbs, i.e., 3 sprays of parsley, 1 of marjoram, 1 of basil, 1 of thyme, also a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns.

Cover the pan close, and fry for 1½ hour, over a quick fire. Shake the pan from time to time. Then cover the contents with warm water, and let it come to the boil. Skim well, and let it cook 5 or 6 hours. Strain, and if the gristle is soft, cut it into the soup like turtle - and you may add a little well-boiled rice.

Mock Turtle Soup. No. 3. Thick.

For thick Mock Turtle Soup you use the same materials as for Mock Turtle Soup No. 2, and it is drawn the same way, but you take one piece only of parsley, and you thicken the soup by first making a roux, to which you add the strained stock, then put it on the stove to boil up for 1½ hour, after which you pass it through a tammy. Mock Turtle Soup. No. 4. White. (The Hon. Mrs. Erskine, Fir Grove. 1861.) Scald half a calf's head. Put it into a stewpan with ½ lb. lean uncooked stock ham, 2 lbs. knuckle of veal, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 stick of celery, 3 onions, parsley and thyme, and add 4 qts. water.

Let all simmer 6 hours, then take out the calf's head, and press it between 2 dishes when boned.

Pass the stock through a sieve, and add 6 ozs. flour. Cut up the calf's head, when cold, into pieces an inch square, and add it to the soup with a gill of cream, warm well, but do not boil; season; serve hot. The soup may be flavoured with mushrooms.

Mock Turtle Soup. See also Calf's Head, No. 2, under Meat - Veal. Mulligatawny Soup. No. 1. (Miss Duckworth.) Make a good gravy soup. Put in the carcass of a fowl or any boiled bones. Boil till the substance is out of it; strain it 2 hours before dinner. Fry the choice parts of the fowl, cut in pieces, with celery chopped fine; take 1 teaspoonful of curry powder; 1½ of flour, and 2 spoonfuls of milk; mix; then add 1 spoonful of vinegar, 1 of mushroom catsup, and a dessertspoonful of anchovy; mix well together, and let them steam till dinner.

Mulligatawny Soup. No. 2. Clear. (1880.) Cut 6 good onions in slices, and put them on the stove to fry a nice light brown; then add 2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, and 1 of curry paste to mix with the onions. Cut up 4 good apples, and add also a little salt and lemon-juice and sugar. Fill up the stewpan with white stock made from veal, rabbit, or chicken bones. Set the stewpan on the stove to boil; boil for 2 hours, skimming off the oil as it rises to the top; strain the soup through a fine hair sieve.

Taste to see if it is hot enough and strong enough - if not, add what is wanting, either more stock or more curry powder.

Return the soup to the stewpan with 3 whites of egg, stirring it occasionally when boiling. Let it reduce until you have the quantity you require; then strain it through a cloth, and leave ready for use.

When wanted, have some cooked chicken or rabbit cut up, and put into the tureen; pour the boiling soup over it and serve.

Hand round rice boiled very dry, on a plate, as for other curries; serve the rice on a warm napkin which you have folded on a very hot plate. For rice recipes, see Garnishings for Soups, see also under Vegetables.

Mulligatawny Soup. No. 3. Clear. (Lord Lurgan.) Chop 2 onions roughly, and fry a golden colour. Then add some curry powder, and let it cook a little; next add good stock (cold), and put in 2 or 3 carcasses of chicken. Let it boil; skim it well, then garnish with vegetables; after that let it boil gently for 3 or 4 hours, then strain off and clarify. Serve with well boiled but very dry rice. (Cornelius Capelun's Genuine Curry Powder, 46, Above Bar, Southampton.) Mulligatawny Soup. No. 4. (Emslie's. 1890.) Butter the frying pan; cut up a Portugal onion, and 2 apples and a slice of uncooked stock ham; fry, uncovered, in butter over the fire for 20 minutes, turning the pieces and stirring now and again.

Then add a teaspoonful of curry powder and a dessertspoonful of curry paste, also a dessertspoonful of flour and a heaped up teaspoonful of powdered white sugar; to these, add 2 qts. of white stock, and boil ³¼ of an hour before passing through a tammy or sieve. Boil up again and skim; add a teacupful of warm cream when off the fire. Emslie likes half of the stock to be of chicken, veal, rabbit or fresh trimmings of pork or rabbit - the other half may be liquor of boiled beef, if not too salt, or from scrag of beef, or of mutton.

This quantity is enough for 6 people.

Mulligatawny Soup. No. 5. Thick. (Isa. Emslie. 1886.) Two scrags of mutton, 1 rabbit - jointed, all uncooked; any raw beef trimmings improve it. If the scrags are not fat, you must butter the sides and bottom of the cooking pot; fry the meat uncovered (no water); shake the cooking pot from time to time. Then add 2 qts. of cold water, cover, and simmer 5 or 6 hours; then strain. Mince many onions and 3 apples, and fry them in a little butter till soft; mix in a teaspoonful of curry powder, and a tablespoonful of fine flour, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of white sugar; then add the stock and let it boil up; draw aside to simmer on the side of the fire 1 hour, covered; put the soup through a sieve and put it back to get hot, and see the tureen is very hot before you pour in the soup. This is better without cream, but it may be added warmed at the last. For rice to hand with it, see Garnishings for Soups, see also Vegetables. Mutton Broth.

For broth of mutton only, use any pieces of shin bone uncooked, the scrag, the head, the shanks, and the breast also.

First put on a teacupful of Scotch barley with the bones and as much water as it will require, to boil up for 1 hour; then add carrots cut in dice, if possible use only the red part; at the end of the second hour add sliced onions, and turnips, cut in dice, also a stick of celery whole; this last to be taken away at dishing-up time. It must boil fast from 4 to 6 hours; skim from time to time; season to taste, and at the last add a little chopped parsley green, and a teacupful of cream just to boil up, a little celery - salt to flavour.

Some cook the vegetables apart, then drain them and add just before the cream, merely to heat up; this is for people who object to a strong taste of vegetables. (We like vegetables! - C.C.) Mutton Broth. See also Invalid Cookery. "Nouilles Soup." (Mrs. Norman. 1862.) Make a soup of second stock, and, if not very good, reduce it till it is strong enough; flavour with a small piece of celery and add Nouilles. See Nouilles, under Garnishings for Soups.

Onion Soup. See Turnip Soup, No. 3.

Ooria Soup. (1880.) Consommé which has in it quenelles of various colours cut with a cutter all one shape to size of a 3d. bit and ½ inch thick; some made of yellow custard of the yolk; some of white of egg steamed; some of chicken or veal steamed and coloured to taste, green (coloured with spruce or spinach), pink (cochineal), or red (spawn). Best without red or pink.

Our Rabbit Broth. (Altered from Mrs. Jamieson's Recipe by I. Emslie. 1886.) Skin 3 young uncooked rabbits, cut them into neat fillets and joints. Put them into cold water to soak for 2 hours; throw that water away and put the meat a second time into fresh, cold water; directly it boils throw that water also away. This is to blanch the meat. Wash it well again in cold water. Trim away any rough part of the rabbit fillets. Butter a pan and draw down the carcasses and joints of the rabbits with a ¼ lb. cut up ham, and onion, carrot and celery, ½ bay-leaf, a few white peppercorns, and a clove; some add a very tiny sprig of lavendar. Put neither stock nor water for the first ½ hour, and keep the best fillets on one side. Have the lid on the pan to keep all moist, and see it does not scorch. Shake it up and turn the pieces over now and then. Next cover the contents of the pan with stock, or cold mutton broth, or even cold water, lest the trimmed rabbit fillets, which are now added with the stock, should get hard. The water in which a leg or neck of mutton has been boiled with its vegetables makes the best mutton stock for rabbit broth. Again put lid on pan, and strain; all must come to the boil first, and then simmer gently at the side of the stove till the fillets are tender and perfectly cooked - about 2 hours; then pick them out with a spoon, strain the stock, and let it get cool enough to skim. Now add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of well-washed rice, and let the strained stock simmer uncovered for 1 hour till the rice is cooked almost pulpy; then pulp half of the rice through a sieve, and return it to the rest of the rice which you have left whole in the stock; add the cooked fillets also. A little minced onion is an improvement in flavouring, also a little salt. Dip some parsley a minute, to blanch it, in boiling water, squeeze it in a dry cloth, and add a little of the chopped green leaf of it to the soup. Heat a tureen well, and add ½ teacupful of warmed cream, if wished for, to the broth and meat, just before pouring it in. Stir well round, and serve.

Use young rabbits only for these fillets, and, if you can get it, add to them the fillets of a tender young partridge, drawing down the rest of the bird with the carcasses of the rabbits for the soup and mincing the breast, &c., in dice to add. For Rabbit Soups, see later.

Ox Cheek Soup. (Beechwood and Sussex Lodge. 1885.) Soak and cleanse a fine ox - cheek the day before it is to be used; put it into a stewpan that will cover close, with about 3 qts. of water. Simmer it after it has first boiled up and been well skimmed. Take out all the bones, and in 2 hours put in plenty of carrots, leeks, 2 or 3 turnips, a bunch of sweet herbs, and some whole pepper; skim it often. When the meat is tender, take it out and set it by to get cold, having first strained the vegetables from it.

Next day take the fat off the soup and when reheated it will be ready for use. The meat to be used as follows: Fry some onions in flour and butter to make the gravy brown; cut carrots, turnips, and celery in square shapes -- if liked, add chopped gherkins also; add to them as much of the gravy as you want to pour over the meat after it has been put in the dish.

The meat must be stewed in the gravy about 1 hour the second day, to make it quite hot through, and then put on the dish it is to be sent to table in, and the gravy and cut vegetables poured over it just before it is served.

It should be as hot as possible. (See also Ox Cheek, under Meat - Beef, for another way to use Ox Cheek.) Oxtail Soup. No. 1. (Mrs. Goodwin.) For putting in a soup use the thinner end of the oxtails, in joints; fry them in butter; finish by simmering in stock till tender; then add a "scarce suspected" touch of arrowroot to the soup to thicken it.

Oxtail Soup. No. 2. Clear. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Made of second stock.

Get the butcher to scald but not skin an ox or calf tail, then the cook should joint it and wash it well.

Boil the joints of oxtail many hours in second stock, with sliced carrot, turnip, celery, onion, a bunch of herbs, 3 cloves, blade of mace, and a few peppercorns. When the meat is soft, take the joints out carefully, lest they should break, and put them aside. Strain the soup through a sieve, and, that you may clarify it nicely, take ½ lb. of raw beef or veal, chop it and pound it, and put it into a clean basin, with 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Next pour it into the hot, strained soup, and let it boil on the fire. Then simmer 1½ an hour by the side of the fire. Warm up the joints of oxtail in the soup before sending to table (see also Calf's Tail Soup.) Oyster Soup, "Maigre." (Mrs. Jamieson. Xmas, 1884.) Scald and beard 2 doz. oysters; save their liquor in a basin. Prepare a good fish - stock with a cod's head or with other trimmings of fish. Put 2 ozs. of fresh butter in a pan over the stove; stir in 2 ozs. of flour; moisten all with fish - stock; then let it simmer 1½ an hour by the side of the fire, skimming well; add the scalded oysters cut in half, and their liquor, and ½ pt. of cream at the last. Do not add oysters or cream till the stock is off the boil. Palestine Soup. No. 1. (Mr. Courtenay.) Take 7 or 8 Jerusalem artichokes, pare and slice them into a pan with a stick of celery, a large Spanish onion and as much veal gravy as will cover them. Add also one lump of sugar. Stew them till quite tender, then rub them through a sieve. To every 1 qt. of soup add 1 pt. of cream. Season to your taste and salt and white pepper, and thicken with a little flour and butter. Give it a boil up and serve. (We find it makes better soup to use more artichokes, and omit the flour and butter. 3 lbs. of good artichokes should make soup for 5 people, and no thickening should be required. - C.C.) Palestine Soup. No. 2. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Quantity for 6 people: 1 doz. full-sized artichokes peeled and sliced, 2 large onions peeled and sliced, 1 stick of celery sliced.

For white soup, all white vegetables must be peeled and thrown into cold water as you slice them, to keep them white.

Put 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan; drain the vegetables well and add them, also 1 oz. of raw, lean, stock-ham cut in dice, and 1 blade of mace. the Cover, and let all "sweat" till tender, but stir often lest they should catch length of time will vary from ½ hour onwards. When ready and soft, add 1½ pts. of stock (cold) and let it come to the boil, then skim well, draw to the side of the fire, and cover again.

It must now simmer to a purée, then pass it through a tammy, and heat it again. Scald 4 pt. of cream, and stir it in just as the soup is going into the tureen. Serve "crusts" (see Garnishings for Soups) on a plate with it. "Partan Bree." See Crab Soup.

Partridge Soup. (Mrs. Thomas.) This is very delicate in flavour. Take 2 brace of partridge and cut off and reserve the fillets for an entrée. The carcasses, well prepared, make the soup. Take away all skin and soak the carcasses of the birds well in cold water; pick them clean; then pump water over them and put them into fresh water to rinse them well. Do not dry them, but put the pieces just as they are into the stewpan with an onion and a piece of butter. Cover close, and put them on the fire to draw till the bones look quite dry; then add a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, a piece of lean ham, and a bouquet, and cover with water to draw, just like any other stock. If you wish to make it a thick white soup and have no artichokes, then to the vegetables add a French roll cut in two (some use crust and all, if not overbaked) and pass it through the sieve with the soup when you take out the bones, carrot, ham and herbs. This is more delicate than to thicken with butter and flour. Or put in a teacupful of well-washed and cooked rice with the water and pass it through the sieve with the soup, and if the birds are old then pound the meat before passing it through the tammy. Season and add cream at the last when off the boil.

For a variety you may leave one fillet on the breast of one bird. Let it cook till tender enough with the carcasses, then take it out, and when cold cut into dice and put into the heated tureen. Pour the soup over.

For another recipe, see Pheasant Soup.

Pea Soup. No. 1. (Of Dried Peas) - - Barron Hill.

A winter soup enough for 12, or half this quantity for 7 people. Two carrots, 2 turnips, 2 onions (1 stuck with cloves), 2 heads of celery, 1 large potato, 1 qt. of dried green peas, 2 qts. of second stock or good beef stock (if you want a "maigre" soup use water instead), ½ teaspoonful of peppercorns and a very little white sugar. Boil all together till smooth, rub it through a sieve, and at dishing time add a little good cream.

In summer, of course, the peas should be fresh; then leave out the potato, a doubtful improvement even in mid - winter, and add a sprig of mint, if approved, to flavour, but if so take out the mint before serving.

N.B. Should you not be able to get dried green peas, only dried yellow peas, then colour the soup with juice of pounded spinach; the soup must not be boiling when the juice is added, or it will spoil the colour.

Pea Soup. No. 2. Of Dried and Green Peas mixed.

When peas are young and scarce, take a breakfastcupful of them, wash them, boil, drain, and put aside.

Next put on a teacupful of green split dried peas or 1 qt. of old large garden peas, well-washed, and ¼ lb. of stock ham, cut up, in 3 pts. of stock, half of mutton broth and half of boiled - beef liquor; let it first come to the boil, then simmer for 2 hours; ¼ hour before the end, add a little pepper and 2 fresh and previously well-washed lettuces cut up, also a sprig of mint, also half the quantity of the young peas. In ¼ hour take out the mint; pass all the rest through a fine hair sieve; add the rest of the young whole peas, leaving them whole; give it a boil up, and skim. Take it off the fire and add a teacupful of warmed cream to the soup, and serve in a heated tureen. ¼ lb. of pickled pork improves the flavour if old peas are used. Pea Soup. No. 3. Green.

Put in a stewpan 1 qt. or more of green peas with some green onions, also a little parsley and mint. Add a slice of stock ham, and a small piece of butter. Set it on the stove, and be careful not to let the contents adhere to the bottom of the pan, as that would spoil the soup.

When tender, bruise and add a little spinach of a good colour, to make it a nice green; dilute with some good white stock, boil to a pulp and pass through a tammy. Place it by the side of the stove to get hot, and then take off any fat that rises; it must not boil, or it will curdle. Serve fried croûtons with it. Pea Soup. No. 4. "Maigre." (Caldy.) Slice finely 2 cucumbers, 2 cabbage lettuces, 1½ pt. of young peas, a handful of spinach, and the same quantity of young onions, and stew them in a little fresh butter; also a peck of old peas boiled in 2 qts. of water- this water makes the soup liquor, so must not be thrown away.

Pass everything through a tammy, and at dishing time add some cream. Pea Soup. No. 5. (Green.) "Maigre," for 6 People. 1 qt. of peas shelled into cold water, then drained; 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan and 2 sliced onions; shake over the fire till the butter has melted, then add the peas and a sliced cos lettuce, also a bunch of green onions or 2 leeks, a bouquet of thyme, parsley, tarragon, and chervil (and ¼ lb. lean ham, for Protestants); cover with 2 qts. of cold water, and let all boil till tender, closely covered. Then take out the ham, herbs and green onions, and pass the purée through a sieve or tammy, add a lump of sugar and a grain of pepper; boil up and skim, then add a little scalded cream (hot), and a few whole, boiled, peas. If you have no cream and no stock,