The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie

A great Victorian hostess's private recipe collection, gathered from the cooks, ambassadors and country houses of a lifetime — never meant for publication, and published after her death exactly as she kept it, attributions and all.

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Stock-pot

boil the peas in milk instead of water all "maigre" white soups are best made with milk.

If not a good colour, pound some spinach and squeeze the juice into the well-heated empty tureen before putting in the soup; then pour the soup on it, and stir. Peasant's Soup, "Potage à la Paysanne." (Cataldi.) Use best stock, a white cabbage cut up, sliced, and thoroughly well boiled in it to make this soup.

Pheasant Soup. (Isa. Emslie. 1891.) A good "make-out" white soup.

When a pheasant is elderly, and some of the cooked white meat is left over, take it all off the body (not legs) and put it aside, free from skin. Joint carcass and legs; add any trimmings of raw beef, soup vegetables, 2 ozs. of raw stock, ham fat and lean, and 2 or 3 white peppercorns.

Cover with water, put the lid on the pan, and let it come to the boil first, then simmer on stove 2 hours. Take off and strain the liquor, and add 1 doz. Jerusalem artichokes to boil in the soup ½ hour with lid on. If without artichokes, a slice of crumb of home-made bread answers to thicken soup.

The white meat, picked and pounded, may now be added, and the soup, thus thickened, be passed through a tammy and put on the stove again to come to the boil, no lid on this time. When taken off finally, add the yolk of a fresh egg which has been beaten in a teacupful of cream.

Partridges, previously cooked, do in the same way for soup. Piedmontese Soup. "Piémontaise." (Cataldi.) A national dish "Riz au Choux." 1 qt. of veal, or first or even second beef stock, a white cabbage, 2 ozs. rice, 2 ozs. of fat, not lean, bacon, 1½ oz. grated Parmesan cheese - these are the materials for soup for 8 people.

Chop the bacon fine and brown it in a stewpan over the fire. When it is browned, add a white cabbage sliced across. Cook bacon and cabbage as for "Potage à la Paysanne" till the cabbage is soft, and till all its natural moisture has evaporated, then add the quantity you require of stock. Full 20 minutes before dinner add the rice, and 5 or 6 minutes before serving the soup add the grated Parmesan cheese. Pigeon Soup, for 4 people. (1891.) Remove the fillets of 6 pigeons and keep them to make an entrée; joint the carcasses; melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan; add the pigeons' jointed carcasses, a slice of raw stock ham minced, raw soup vegetables and herbs - i.e., onions, 1 carrot, head of celery, half a bay - leaf, a little mace, and a few whole peppercorns. Add no water, but put the lid on, and let them fry for 1½ hour; shake the pan, and turn the pieces over now and then, that they may not "catch"; then cover them with 3 pts. of water, and let all stew, covered by lid, for 3 or 4 hours, till the meat will come away easily from the bones. Then pass through a wire sieve all the meat you can pick from the bones. Strain the soup off, and let it get cold, then clear it of grease, and add the sieved meat to thicken it; add also 1 tablespoonful of fine tapioca; boil again uncovered for 1½ hour, flavour if necessary, and strain into a hot tureen. Serve hot. If you have no fresh celery, then flavour the soup with celery - salt instead of using common table salt.

Pork Broth and Pork Soup. See Invalid Cookery. "Potage à la Bonne Femme." See "Lettuce and Sorrel Soup." "Potage à la Crécy." See Carrot Soup, No. 4. "Potage à la Paysanne." See Peasant's Soup. "Potage à la Princesse." See Princess Soup. "Potage à la Reine." See Chicken Soup, No. 4. "Potage Julienne." See Julienne Soup, No. 2. "Potage Printanière Maigre." See Spring Soup.

Potato Soup. No. 1.

Slice the potatoes very thin with a little streaky bacon, onion and butter. Season with pepper and salt. Add a little white stock, and let it gradually simmer. When soft, pass through a sieve. Heat and add a little cream before sending to table. Fried croûtons should be handed with it.

Potato Soup. No. 2. (Mrs. Challen, Marine Parade, Worthing. 1882.) 1 oz. butter, 2 or 3 large onions, 1 doz. potatoes, or fewer if they are fine ones, 1½ pts. of stock.

Boil till it will pass through a fine hair sieve; add a good lump of sugar, salt, pepper, and a grate of nutmeg, and after boiling up at the last, add ½ pt. of cream. Potato Soup. No. 3. (Miss Duckworth.) 2 lbs. of breast of mutton, 12 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 heads of celery, pepper and salt; stew slowly till the potatoes are dissolved; then strain; add a little gravy, ½ pt. of cream and 4 ozs. of butter rolled in flour. Put it on a slow fire, and stir till the butter is dissolved; season it to taste; sugar may be handed round with this soup. It need not be made so rich. This makes 2 qts. "Pot au feu." No. 1. (Auchintorlie.) 6 lbs. of beef, including bones, cut into several pieces; ³¼ lb. of mixed vegetables, such as onion, carrot, turnip, leek, celery with its leaves, and white cabbage; 1 teaspoonful of pepper, the same of sugar, and 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, 8 pts. of water. Let it all boil very gently for many (? 8) hours, carefully remove the fat; add "crusts" of bread (see Garnishings for Soups) or slices of roll - baked or plain, according to taste.

Serve in tureen very hot. "Pot au feu." No. 2. (M. de Bergue to A. Young.) 4lbs. of fresh beef, 4 qts. of water, 4 leeks, also 1 onion, carrot and turnip cut lengthways, some whole pepper in muslin, and bunch of herbs also in muslin. The beef and water are to simmer together, in an earthen vessel on a very small fire. It should take a long time to come to the boil, and after it boils, it must simmer again quite slowly, and the fat, as it rises, must be carefully skimmed off. After the beef and water have thus boiled for 20 minutes, add the vegetables, &c., and simmer all again as slowly as possible 7 hours. In all, the dish should take from 9 to 10 hours. Serve the soup with vermicelli or rice.

The vegetables and meat, with a little of the broth for gravy, make a good dish separately by themselves.

Princess Soup, "Potage à la Princesse."

A proportion of 6 lbs. of veal to 10 lbs. of beef, in making the stock. For the "Appareil à la Princesse" (in English, the quenelle), for this soup, see Quenelles No. 7, under Garnishings for Soups.

Cataldi occasionally makes this soup with second stock. "Purée au Riz." See Rice Soup No. 2.

Rabbit Soup. No. 1. White. (J. Emslie. 1888.) Cut up 2 rabbits and put them on in white stock, with ½ lb. of ham, and soup vegetables, to come to the boil; then draw down for 2 hours and strain. Then take a slice of bread and soak it in the strained liquor; take the bread out, and pick out all the nice bits of white meat and pound both together; pass it through a sieve or tammy; season, and add a little green parsley - leaf minced, also celery salt, if you have no fresh celery, and a dust of sugar.

Make some cream hot over the fire; to it add 2 yolks of egg, one at a time, to mix well; put the cream and eggs in the tureen, and pour the soup over, stirring well. Rabbit Soup. No. 2. White. (Isa. Emslie. 1895.) Wash a rabbit, and soak it ½ hour in cold water, with a spoonful of salt to prevent too strong a flavour of rabbit.

You may leave it whole, and to it add any trimmings of the lean of uncooked mutton, or chicken - (no skin) -- also liver, gizzard, &c. Put all in a pan with onion, carrot, celery, sweet herbs, a little lean ham or bacon, 2 or 3 cloves, and also white peppercorns. Cover with 3 pts. of cold water. Put the lid on and let it cook 2 hours. Then take off and let it stand a few minutes before you skim off the grease strain it. Have ready a tablespoonful of small sago, add it to the soup, and set it over the fire, stirring it, or the sago will get into lumps. It will take ½ hour. then Break the yolk of a fresh egg into a teacupful of cream and add a little chopped parsley with it to heat up, but not to boil.

Add to soup the last thing. Serve soup in a hot tureen. Rabbit Soup No. 3. White. (Mrs. Gordon's. 1897.) Put a rabbit or chicken into a stewpan, with 2 qts. of cold water, let it boil up, pour this first water away.

Add again 2 qts. of cold water, a piece of lean ham, celery, or celery seed, 1 onion with 2 cloves stuck into it, 8 white peppercorns, a small sprig of bay -leaf and thyme. When it boils up draw, with lid on, to the side of the fire to simmer for 2 hours, then strain and let it get cold, so that all grease can be taken off. Pick all the meat from the bones, and pound it in a mortar with a little of the stock, and pass it through a fine hair sieve. 1 hour before it is wanted, add some more stock, with a teacupful of well-washed sago, and boil 20 minutes to ½ hour; strain again and, just before serving, add the yolk of 1 egg mixed with a teacupful of cream, some chopped parsley and the purée of meat. It must not boil after these are added, but be kept very hot. Rabbit Soup. No. 4. "Potage à la Reine," for 12 people. (Mrs. Thomas.) Cut up a rabbit or 5 lbs. knuckle of veal, skin and cut up an old fowl and well rinse it in water, but do not dry it. Leave the fillets whole on the breast. Add a sliced onion and 2 ozs. of butter. Cover the pan and let it draw 15 minutes; shake the pan gently all the time, that the meat may not scorch. Then add 3 qts. of cold water and let it come quickly to the boil; skim carefully; add a whole carrot, ½ lb. of lean ham in one piece, 2 blades of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, all these to be taken out before the soup goes through the sieve, a sliced Spanish onion, sliced celery, and a sliced turnip, also the inside of a French roll, 1½ teacupful well washed pearl barley, which is more delicate than rice, and mushroom peelings. Simmer till soft, take out the chicken fillets, pound them in a mortar and pass through a tammy; take the bones and pieces out of the soup, and then pass all the rest of the soup through a tammy to add to the pounded meat, heat up and just before serving, when off the boil, add some cream and a little pepper if required.

Rabbit Soup. No. 5. (Miss Young. 1886.) Two rabbits - roast one, boil the other; cut the fillets out of the back of the boiled one; pound them in a mortar with 2 or 3 ozs. bread-crumbs. Keep ready. Put both rabbits' carcasses in 2 qts. of water with celery, carrots, onions, &c., to come to the boil, then simmer, covered. Stew them well, 5 or 6 hours, then strain the carcasses, &c., from the broth, fillet the rabbit originally roasted, adding these fillets to the pounded fillets of the boiled rabbit; rub all this meat through a sieve and then put it back into the strained stock; warm and add ½ pt. of cream, which should be boiling alone and added just before serving.

Without the cream it is a good brown soup.

N.B.

The well-roasted rabbit browns the soup, and flavours it better. Rabbit Soup. See also Chicken Soups No. 1 and No. 5, and "Our Rabbit Broth." Rice Soup. No. 1.

Wash 6 ozs. rice with cold water; put it into a stock - pot with some good white stock, and place it over a slow fire. Add celery, onion, sweet herbs, parsley, and a bay-leaf, also some lean ham.

Let all boil together 1 hour, then take out the ham, herbs, and bay-leaf before serving. This should make 3 qts.

Rice Soup. No. 2. "Purée au Riz," for 12 people.

Take a teacupful of well-washed rice and simmer for 1½ hours in 3 qts. of veal or chicken stock, then put half the stewed rice through a tammy, keeping the other half back in the soup.

After the rice is passed through the sieve return it to the stewpan and boil all up; then draw it to the side of the fire, and pour into it ½ pt. of cream, or of boiled milk if for home party, or half and half. Warm up before serving. If preferred, put all the rice through the tammy.

This soup may be made with macaroni or vermicelli instead of rice. Should you use macaroni, thicken the soup with the inside of a roll, or flour melted in a little butter. Cut the macaroni and put into boiling water; it will take 12 hours to get soft; drain it, cut in bits 1 inch long, and put it into the tureen, pouring the hot soup over it.

Vermicelli, or Italian paste, will merely require from 2 to 10 minutes' cooking in boiling water and draining in a sieve, and boiling up in the soup before adding the cream. Heat all well up in the soup. "Richmond Soup," Clear and Thick, is another name for Mock Turtle Soups Nos. 2 and 3. "Risotto," a Milanese Soup. (Cataldi.) Blanch the rice in a stewpan in water till it all but boils, then take it off to cool, and strain off all the water. Put it on the fire again with a little stock until it is quite cooked but not become a mere purée.

Stir in some grated Parmesan cheese, also a little fresh butter. Season delicately, and serve in a tureen very hot.

This is eaten almost solid at Milan, but foreigners have plain clear soup offered them to eat with Risotto; the latter is thick as porridge. "Riz au Choux." See Piedmontese Soup.

Salmon Soup.

Prepare the stock of the head, bones, fins and skin of the salmon and a few vegetables boiled ½ hour; strain it. When cold, be very careful to remove all the fat and oil; thicken the soup with a little potato flour; add some chopped parsley, also some scallops of cooked salmon and of brown bread - N.B. The bones of 1 or 2 raw whiting give excellent flavour to the soup.

Scotch Barley Broth. No. 1.

Scotch barley is much better, and more glutinous than pearl barley. Use, if convenient, the liquor in which a sheep's head has been boiled, and also that which has boiled a fowl (two-thirds former and one-third latter). To make it good, it will still take fully 3 hours' cooking.

For the first 2 hours cook barley, carrot and celery (all cut up and put on in the stock with the lid on) to come first to the boil, then to simmer, still covered, at the side of the fire. Then add cut - up raw onion and turnip, to cook another hour. Should the turnips be too strong in flavour, blanch them first; for this you must cut them up, and put them on in cold water to come to the boil (lid on); strain off the water; then add the turnips to the broth.

Add a little chopped green leaves of parsley at the last, well squeezed in a cloth to get out the sap. When soup is off the fire strain in some warmed cream, and, if the cream is too thin, add to it the yolk of 1 egg; this gives richness to the broth. If without celery add a little celery-salt, but sparingly, as guests like to put pepper and salt in for themselves, and no two people's tastes are alike.

Scotch Barley Broth. No. 2, for Five People.

Swell a teacupful of Scotch barley with ¼ oz. of fresh butter for 1½ hour in 2 qts. of cold water; then put butter, barley, cold water, and 2 lbs. of scrag or neck of mutton into a clean stewpan; when they boil add a little cold water to make the scum rise; skim the broth most carefully before adding the following vegetables; 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 heads of celery, all cut in small pieces and put into the broth; add also a good number of onions whole.

Let broth and vegetables simmer 6 hours; then season. Twenty minutes before serving you may add the green leaves of a cabbage sliced, but none of the stalk.

Take the meat and the whole onions out before serving up, and at dishing time add a little cream.

Scotch Broth. No. 1. (Bella Emslie. 1880.) A breast of mutton trimmed of fat and boiled with vegetables in at least 3 qts. of water. Any trimmings of fresh meat or bone improve it. Boil up at first, covered; then draw it to one side, and simmer 2½ hours. When cooked, take out the breast of mutton (you can crumb and broil that for servants' dinner); strain off the soup to get cold and remove the fat; then boil new vegetables in the soup 3 or 4 hours, but if you use rice it should be boiled alone, or if barley be used, it should be swelled in cold water 1 hour or more first, and then boiled, covered, with the broth till tender, 3 or 4 hours. A little boiled beef stock, if not too salt, improves this soup, cream also at the last, or you may warm but not boil the 1/2 gill of cream, and add it to the soup in the tureen itself, mixing it well with soup 10 minutes before serving, and it must not boil after cream goes in.

The best of all Scotch broth is made of sheep's head when the sheep's head is cooking for table with scrag of mutton; you may also make it of shoulder of mutton. Scotch Broth. No. 2. Of Beef. (Miss Ewart's.) 4 or 5 lbs. of the shin of beef; put on the fire in 1½ gallons of water; 2 or 3 turnips whole, 1 or 2 carrots, and some onions, also a little celery. Let it boil gently for about 3 hours; then take it off and strain it. Next day put it in a pan with 1/2 teacupful of Scotch barley, a turnip cut up, and part of a carrot in small pieces, and boil it again till these vegetables and the barley are soft, and before it is quite done add a few greens chopped, and a few celery tops. Take one of the whole turnips which were first put in; mash it quite small, and add it to the rest.

Semolina Soup. No. 1. Clear. (Miss Benyon.) Use first stock, second stock, or veal stock, as most convenient (Miss Benyon used veal). 2 qts. of stock require a teacupful of semolina. Boil it for 1½ hour in the soup. Stir till it comes to the boil, then draw to the side of the fire to simmer till done. Semolina Soup. No. 2. Thick. (Cataldi.) This is of first stock or veal stock and made like clear semolina soup, to which Cataldi adds the following: 2 yolks of egg mixed in a basin with 1½ teacupful of cream strained through a strainer; then mixed first with a little very hot, but not boiling, soup before it is put into the soup tureen; then the rest of the clear semolina soup is poured over it in the tureen, and all well stirred together.

Boiling soup would make the eggs curdle.

This is very good with "melon seed paste" instead of semolina. Just cook the "melon seed paste" in boiling water, drain and finish in stock, to make it rich, and add it to the soup before liaison.

Sheep's Head Soup. (Beechwood.) Take a sheep's pluck and put it into 4 qts. of water; then add onions, carrots, turnips, and a cup of pearl barley, a few peppercorns, and cloves. Boil it till nearly done enough. Then wash a sheep's head and put it into the stew. When the head is quite tender, take it out, pour off the liquor from the pluck and vegetables, and let the liquor stand till the next day.

Then take off the fat and thicken the soup with flour and butter properly browned, add a little cayenne pepper, serve soup with the sheep's head warmed, cut into pieces, and sent up in the hot soup; put in a good deal of mushroom catsup. The pearl barley may be omitted if not approved.

Sorrel Soup.

This is made the same way as Milk Soup without stock, but sorrel, being acid, would turn milk, so draw it with water; take 2 strained yolks of egg and mix in a basin with a little warmed cream. When the sorrel soup has been heated again, after passing through the tammy, and is quite off the boil, add a little of the soup first to the basin of eggs and cream, then mix well one way; after this add the whole of the soup. It is always a risk to put eggs for soup over the fire, so, when the soup is off the boil, plunge the pot into the bain - marie to keep hot, and then add the egg and cream mixture from the basin.

Heat the tureen as much as possible before putting the soup in it. Souchet. See Water Souchet and Trout Souchet, under Fish. "Soup made in haste." Enough for 5 or 6 people.

Any pieces of beef cut up, and if possible an old fowl, or rabbit, skinned, also vegetables, ham, herbs, all put in at first with the meat, cold water poured over; cover till it boils up, and do not skim it till quite the end, i.e., not, in fact, till the fat rises; the early skimmings must sink and strengthen the soup; add a little cold water now and then to stop the boiling and make the grease rise; strain, and, if you like, add a little browning (see Roux, &c.) to colour the soup.

As in other clear soups, all the vegetables that are served up in the soup are cooked separately and added warm at the last, the first vegetables, which were to flavour, being strained out.

Soup - "Julienne Maigre." See Julienne Soup No. 1. "Spanish Soup." See Tomato Soup No. 1.

Spring Soup. "Potage Printanière Maigre."

To 2 qts. of water put 1 qt. of peas, 2 onions, a head of celery, 1 carrot, 2 turnips, a handful of spinach, and a sprig of mint.

Stew all together till quite soft; then strain and pass through a sieve. Put the pulp and water back into the stewpan with a lettuce sliced, a small piece of butter, and 2 lumps of sugar. Put it on a quick fire for a short time.

If the soup is a bad colour, add the juice of a little pounded spinach, but be careful not to add this while the soup is boiling, as that would spoil the colour. This soup may be made with stock instead of water.

Sweetbread Purée. (Goodwyn. 1890.) Take 1 sweetbread for 6 people, blanch it 5 minutes in boiling water, and cut it in slices. Have ready 2 pts. of white chicken stock and the same of milk, to come to the boil together, and skim them; season, and then add the sweetbread to simmer 1 hour; lastly add the beaten yolks of 4 eggs and thicken if necessary with crumb of a French roll previously soaked in milk or stock; pass all through a sieve and serve. Tapioca Soup. (Mrs. Goodwin. 1886.) Ingredients: 1 qt. of veal stock, a teacupful of small tapioca, 1½ pt. of milk, or ¼ pt. of cream, the yolk of 1 egg.

Soak the tapioca 4 hours, then throw it into the stock to simmer till quite cooked; put the yolk of egg into a basin and add the milk or cream warmed; mix, and add to the soup; it must be hot, but not boil after the egg goes in. A little lean ham or a bone of ham drawn down with the stock improves the flavour.

Tomato Soup. No. 1. (Orchardleigh. Xmas 1876.) A Cheshire dish.

Called also "Spanish soup."

Put on twelve fresh-gathered tomatoes well washed to stew in some good broth; when done pass through a tammy and keep ready on one side. Skin and joint a fowl and put on to boil, with 1 onion and a bit of parsley; when cooked, take out the joints of fowl, which can be used otherwise, but add the liquor in which they boiled to the tomato purée; also a little boiled rice, and some nice slices of the white meat (only) of the fowl; season with salt and cayenne pepper.

Serve all well mixed, and heat in a well-warmed tureen, for purée soups soon chill. Pheasant does instead of fowl.

If canned tomatoes are used, 2 tomatoes are enough, just to colour and flavour. Do not use the liquor from the tomato tin.

Tomato Soup. No. 2. (German Cook at Goodwin's Hotel. 1888.) Slice 2 lbs. of fresh tomatoes, mince a little raw ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 2 small leeks, also add a few peppercorns and cloves.

Let all "sweat" together in a stewpan 20 minutes; next let all boil gently for a full hour, with 3 qts. of chicken broth; skim it well, and pass through a hair sieve. Put the soup back into a stewpan with cayenne papper and salt to your taste; let it simmer gently, and, just before sending to table, add ½ pt. of cream. Get fresh tomatoes if you can, quite ripe; if not, use those in tins. "Turin Quenelles." See Quenelles No. 8, under Garnishings for Soups. Turnip Soup. No. 1. White.

Prepare any time, but serve very hot.

Slice 8 or 9 turnips, 1 large onion, and a stick of celery, and boil all for 5 minutes in water; then drain well, and put into a stewpan with 1 qt. of white stock, the crumb of a French roll, and a slice of lean ham.

Let all cook, slowly, on the stove; mash it with a wooden spoon, and pass through the tammy with a little more stock, as it should not be thick. Season as required. Add cream or boiled milk the last thing.

Turnip Soup. No. 2. Brown.

Make this the same as Turnip Soup (white), but use brown stock, the crust of the French roll, and no cream.

Hand fried croûtons, if liked, with this brown soup. (See under Garnishings for Soups.) Turnip Soup. No. 3. Maigre. (Mrs. Thomas.) Slice 6 turnips into cold water to preserve their colour; put 3 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, add the turnips, drained but not dried, a stick of celery sliced, a large Spanish onion sliced, button mushrooms or any mushroom peelings, a whole carrot, a second onion stuck with 3 cloves, and 2 ozs. of ham.

Cover close, and shake the pan gently over the fire 10 minutes or more to heat all through, then add well-washed rice or tapioca, sago, or swelled pearl barley, and a French roll free from crust; cover with warm milk all white maigre soups should be made with milk instead of water; add a bouquet also, i.e., 1 bay - leaf, 1 spray of parsley, 1 of tarragon.

Simmer till all are tender, then take out the herbs, ham, whole onion, and carrot, and put all the rest through a sieve or tammy. Heat up and add a grain of pepper and lump of sugar, also, when off the boil, a little cream, if to be had. Onion soup may be made in the same way.

Turtle Soup. See also Mock Turtle.

Turtle Soup of dried Turtle. (Lady Hobhouse.) Soak ½ lb. of dried turtle in cold water for 12 hours or more; then put it in a stewpan and cover with fresh cold water; boil quietly for 8 hours, strain off, and cut into pieces about 1½ in. square; then add these pieces to 3 qts. of clear strong stock; boil on till the turtle is quite tender.

While boiling add, for 5 minutes only, a sprig of basil, also, at the last, a glass of sherry or Madeira; add the juice of 1½ a lemon, if liked. Turtle. Notes about using fresh Turtle for Soup, &c.* The turtle must be put in straw in the cellar and given water every 2 or 3 hours. It should be beheaded at night, and left hanging neck downwards. Mrs. Thomas used mushrooms, ham, knuckle of veal, and some wine, and made, with these and the turtle, thick and clear soup, cutlets in Cardinal sauce, and a dish of the fins dressed like calf's head.

The clear soup was best.

Veal Broth.

For this use knuckle of veal. (Saw the bone in pieces, for if you chop it the soup will have splinters.) Put it in the stock-pot, and add boiling water; then add a large spoonful of rice, 1 large onion, and a head of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, in which tie 2 blades of mace, and take herbs out before serving; skim carefully, and add a little green leaf of parsley.

Stew 3 hours, season, take out the bones, and serve. Vegetable Soup. No. 1. "The Vegetable Soup," Maigre. The hearts of 6 lettuces cut in pieces, 6 cucumbers pared and sliced, 1 pt. of young peas, 2 very large onions, a little parsley chopped fine, pepper, salt, and 2 ozs. of fresh butter.

Stew them together for an hour without water, but stirring them often, or they will burn. Have ready 2 qts. of older peas boiled in 1 gall. of water; pass them through a hair sieve to the very same water in which they were boiled; then to this purée add the stew of lettuce and cucumbers, &c., and boil all softly 1½ hours. When done; take out the onions, just dip a sprig of mint in before taking the soup off the fire, and putting it into a well-heated tureen.

Vegetable Soup. No. 2. (Mrs. Whyte.) Two carrots, 2 turnips, 2 onions, 2 head of celery, 1 large potato, 1 qt. of split peas, 2 qts. of water or stock, 2 or 3 cloves, a few peppercorns, and a very little sugar. Boil all together till smooth, pass it through a sieve, and, at dishing time, add a lump of sugar and 1 pt. of boiled peas also, and a little cream.

The following recipe is similar: 6 turnips, 6 carrots, 6 onions, 6 head of celery, 6 potatoes, all to be fried in butter. Then stew in 5 qts. of water for 6 hours, when all should be rubbed through the tammy, heated and served. Vegetable Marrow Soup. (Mrs. Young.) Use white stock; take out the hearts of 2 or 3 middle-sized vegetable marrows, and cut the marrows in slices; boil till they are soft, about 20 minutes will do; strain first through a tin colander, then through a hair sieve; mix well with stock. At the last, add about 2 gills of cream, then warm all together, but be very careful that it does not boil after adding the cream.

Vermicelli Soup. No. 1. (Mrs. Austin's.) 5½ lbs. rump or brisket of beef (the rump answers best), 2 carrots, 3 turnips, 1½ parsnip, an onion stuck with 6 cloves, 4 leeks tied in a bunch with a few sprigs of thyme and chervil, 5 qts. of water. * To buy best turtle soup; Ship and Turtle Tavern (Painter's), 130, Leadenhall Street, London, E.C. Put the beef on in cold water; as soon as it boils take the froth off carefully, not the fat. Then add the vegetables and let it simmer (not boil) for 3 hours if the rump, and for 5 hours if the brisket. Take off the froth from time to time, but not the fat, and use a skimmer, not a spoon for this. When you take out the soup use a ladle, fill it quite full and the fat will rise to the top, and may be poured off before it is put through the strainer into the tureen. Take ¼ lb. of vermicelli, put it in a saucepan with a little of the soup. Boil it a ¼ of an hour, and then put it in a hot tureen before pouring on the soup. (If bread "crusts" are preferred, cut pieces of bread 2 or 3 inches long; brown them in the oven; then put into a saucepan a small piece of butter, melt it and let it brown over the fire, then put in "crusts" and let them absorb the butter, stir them round, put into the tureen and pour the soup over them. For other "crusts," see Memo. about Soups, also Garnishings for Soups.) Vermicelli Soup. No. 2. Brown.

To seasoned brown stock, add a little potato flour to thicken, and 6 ozs. vermicelli, with chervil leaves and young French beans.

Vermicelli Soup. No. 3. White.

Take about 2 qts. of veal or chicken stock, 4 ozs. boiled vermicelli, and a few chervil leaves blanched 5 minutes in salt and water, to make them very green. Beat up the yolks of 8 eggs and ¼ pt. of good cream in a basin; add to them a little soup, warm, but not hot; gradually add the whole of these eggs and cream to the rest of the soup, and heat all in boiling water.

Pour over the vermicelli in the warmed tureen.

White Soup. No. 1.

Joint a knuckle of veal and put on the fire with a little butter, 4 onions, carrots, celery, herbs, and a blade of mace. Shake a little flour over the meat, and when the gravy is drawn, add a gallon of cold water and a teacupful of rice. Let it simmer all day, then strain it.

When cold, take off all fat, and put in a little vermicelli. When heated to serve, add 1 pt. cream, but do not let it boil afterwards. If you are short of cream, thicken with ground rice. White Soup No. 2. "À la Célestine."

This soup should be made from chicken stock. It has cut cooked vegetables in it any kind, but all cut with a cutter to one shape. In Scotland, capers are used sometimes when vegetables are scarce, but they should be well cooked and used sparingly, as otherwise they are acid and strong tasting. White Soup. No. 3. (Mrs. Husthwaite.) Excellent for a ball supper.

Melt 4 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, add a little lean stock ham, 3 sliced onions, and some sliced celery, also a few button mushrooms, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Set the stewpan on the stove to cook the vegetables slowly, then add as much flour as you require for thickening the soup. When cooked, add veal stock and let all boil for 20 minutes. Season with a little pepper and a blade of mace, and when the soup is off the boil add some cream before serving.

White Soup. No. 4. Bramcote - enough for 12 people. (Hon. Mrs. Wright.) 6 lbs. knuckle of veal, 2 lbs. scrag end of neck of mutton, 2 whole onions, a clove stuck in each, ½ teaspoonful of peppercorns, a small bunch of sweet herbs, a very little thyme, parsley, knotted marjoram, and a bay - leaf, 2 ozs. of ham cut in dice. Pour over all 2 qts. of hot, but not boiling water,* and boil 3 hours, all the while skimming carefully; then strain it and let is stand till next day. Before warming it up clear off all fat; add 1 tablespoonful of flour and 12 oz. of butter mixed smooth, cooked and stirred 5 minutes over a slow fire. When the soup boils add 2 tablespoonfuls of vermicelli cut small; let it boil 5 minutes in the soup. Then draw the pot to the side of the fire, and when the soup is quite off the boil add nearly ½ pt. of cream; take care it merely heats, and does not boil after the cream is added. White Soup. No. 5. Lady Murray's. 4 lbs. of lean veal, rabbit, or fowl, ½ lb. of Scotch barley, a little parsley; simmer slowly in 3 qts. of water; pound all together in a mortar, then pass through a tammy, and add the water in which it was boiled.

Warm it up, and just before taking it off, stir in gently 1 pt. of cream. Add some chopped capers, French beans, peas, vermicelli, or asparagus, previously very well boiled.

White Soups. For other White Soups, see Pheasant Soup, Rabbit Soup, &c. Winter Soup. (Mrs. Whyte, Barrow Hill.) Ingredients: 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 onions, 2 heads of celery, 1 large potato, 1 pt. of dried green peas, or in summer 1 pt. of fresh young peas, 2 qts. of water or of beef stock, a few peppercorns, and a very little sugar.

Boil all together till smooth, pass it through a sieve, and at dishing time add a little cream.

Winter Julienne Soup (for 8 people).

Cut some carrots and throw them into boiling water, with a pinch of salt, to boil on alone ½ hour. Cook together 2 large onions and the white part of a stick of celery for 10 minutes in boiling water. Keep these vegetables ready. Stew ¼ pt. of canister peas in stock for 1½ hour with piece of fresh mint or a bit of the stalk of dried mint, trim 2 doz. beans and blanch them ¼ hour, wash a handful of spinach leaves in several waters, cut them and then blanch them from 5 to 10 minutes till tender, also blanch some green peas in salt and water; keep all these ready to add. The carrots, onions, celery, &c., are all to boil up in the soup, but not the spinach, peas, or beans which must be added at the last merely to heat, with a lump of sugar. Add 1 sprig of freshly gathered tarragon, 1 of chervil, cut up and dipped 1 minute in boiling water; if whole and not cut up, let it merely flavour the soup and be taken out. (For other Julienne Soups, see earlier.) "Yorkshire Club Soup," for 10 or 12 people. (Exact copy of French Chef's English.) "To prepare this soup, set to ebullitions 4 qts. of good broth. Cut up 2 chickens, put them into a stewpan with their backs, pignons, legs, bones, and gizzards, and with 12 ozs. of raw ham in large dice, 4 lbs. veal in large dice. Fry these meats with butter on a good fire until highly coloured. Then sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot. Two minutes after moisten with 1 bottle of Sauterne ("vin blanc") and the 4 qts. of good broth. Stir the liquid until boilings, then remove it back and add to it a few sprigs of sweet herbes ("Aromates", 2 onions, 2 carrots, 8 Leeck, and 1 turnips, 1 head celery, parsley, 4 Bay lives, 6 eschalottes, 1 head garlick, 6 cloves, 10 peppercorns. Let the soup boil. It should be a slight consistency. 25 minutes before you pass the soup, put into * One authority says cold water is best for this. it 1 cod's head (very fraiche) not boiled after. Skim off its fat again. 25 minutes after you put in the cod's head pass the soup through a cloth. Basil, marjorame, and a sprig of chives, thyme, sprigs of sage (not one of these flavours should predominate) simply pass these infusions through a cloth into the soup. But at the last moment take black skin of the Cod's head and put in the soup tureen 8 or 10 pieces of fat green turtle, 4 glasses of good sherry, 1 juice lemon, and 1 pinch of Cayenne pepper." Calwick Abbey Fish Sauce.

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