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Cottage Cheese
Heat sour milk to about 100°F. and turn into a strainer lined with cheesecloth. Pour over one quart hot water. Let curd hang in cheesecloth bag until all whey has drained off. Add enough cream and melted butter to moisten. Add salt.
This is the standard pre-refrigeration method for turning milk that has gone off into food, and it depends on a milk supply that no longer exists. The instructions as printed have no step that would make the finished curd safe.
- "Sour milk" is not spoiled milk from the fridgeThe recipe assumes raw milk left in a cool larder, where native lactic acid bacteria dominate and clabber it into a clean, firm, tart curd. Pasteurized milk has had that flora reduced; left out, it is colonized by whatever spoilage organisms reach it, and it tends to putrefy rather than clabber. Smell and appearance are not a reliable guide to which has happened.
- 100°F is an incubation temperature, not a kill stepWarming to about body heat is done to help the curd contract and release whey. It sits in the middle of the growth range for Salmonella, E. coli O157:H7 and Listeria, all of which are associated with raw milk. The quart of hot water poured over the curd washes it; it does not pasteurize it.
- Draining at room temperatureHanging the bag "until all whey has drained off" can take several hours. The curd is moist and unrefrigerated for that whole period — the conditions under which any surviving organisms multiply fastest.
- Cream and butter add a second unheated ingredientCream and butter are added at the end -- The cream goes in uncooked, and depending on source may have been unpasteurized; the butter is only melted, which is not a heat treatment. Nothing after this point is cooked.
- What the original would have yieldedThe recipe gives no quantity of milk; the quart named is the hot rinse water. A curd of this kind yields a modest amount of cheese from a quantity of milk that would otherwise have been discarded.
- If you want cottage cheeseUse a current recipe built on pasteurized milk and a measured acid or a commercial culture, with the holding and chilling temperatures specified.
Cottage cheese is often said to have earned its name honestly: it is the cheese a household could make without a press, a cave or a rennet supply, using only the milk that had turned in the course of an ordinary week. It belongs to a specific moment in American home economics, when wartime and Depression-era food campaigns pushed milk protein as a cheap stand-in for meat. The Metropolitan Cook Book was given away by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, which distributed millions of copies through its agents.