The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Currant Tartlets

1/3 cupful currants. 3 tablespoonfuls ground rice 2 whites of eggs 4 tablespoonfuls Crisco 3/4 cupful sponge cake crumbs 4 tablespoonfuls sugar 2 tablespoonfuls chopped candied orange peel ½ teaspoonful lemon extract Pinch of salt Crisco pastry 1 tablespoonful cream Cream Crisco and sugar together, add ground rice, crumbs, peel, currants, cream, salt, lemon extract, and whites of eggs well beaten. Roll out paste, cut into rounds, line some Criscoed tartlet tins with rounds. put in each a tablespoonful of the mixture. Bake tartlets in moderate oven from twelve to fifteen minutes. Or, these tartlets may be covered with frosting, and a little chopped cocoanut sprinkled over tops. Sufficient for nine tartlets.

Pastries 1 cupful sugar 1 lemon

For the Modern Kitchen

A frangipane-style filling bound with rice flour and cake crumbs rather than ground almonds — cheap, sturdy, and typical of the Crisco book's habit of rebuilding classic pastry around vegetable shortening. The ingredient list as printed has gaps, so read the method first.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was Procter & Gamble's book-length argument for a new product: a hydrogenated cottonseed shortening meant to displace lard and butter in every branch of American cooking. Pastry seems to have been a hard sell, and the book is thick with tartlets, pies and tarts recast around Crisco. The filling here resembles an older British tradition of the almond-less cheesecake or maid-of-honour tart, where ground rice and cake crumbs stand in for expensive ground almonds he the the shortening — though the resemblance need not imply descent. Candied orange peel and dried currants were pantry staples of the period, and lemon extract did the work that a fresh zest would do now.

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