The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Fried Egg Sandwiches

2 tablespoonfuls Crisco 4 hard-cooked eggs 2 tablespoonfuls cream Salt, pepper, and red pepper to taste 2 rasped rolls Fritter batter Cut hard-cooked eggs free from shells into slices and pound with Crisco and cream to a paste. Season with salt, pepper, and red pepper. Cut rolls into thin slices, butter them, E Sandwiches spread them with the mixture and make into small sandwiches. Dip each sandwich into some prepared fritter batter, and fry to golden brown in hot Crisco. Drain and serve hot.

Sufficient for twelve sandwiches.

For the Modern Kitchen

A deep-fried egg salad sandwich, sized as a small savoury for a tea table rather than a lunch. Two details in the original need translating before you start: the rolls and the batter.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to introduce cooks to hydrogenated cottonseed oil, a product with no culinary tradition behind it, and the recipe pages exist to demonstrate its range: it creams like butter, fries like lard, and — a selling point repeated through the book — carries no flavour of its own and can be reused. This sandwich uses Crisco twice, first as the fat pounded into the egg paste and then as the deep-frying medium. Fried sandwiches were a familiar hot savoury of the period, a thrifty way to turn bread and hard-cooked eggs into something hot for a tea or supper table, and the technique has a relative in Italian mozzarella in carrozza and in the modern deep-fried grilled cheese. The instruction to butter the bread in a book devoted to promoting an alternative to butter suggests that these promotional cookbooks were often adapting existing recipes rather than writing new ones from scratch.

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