The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Rhubarb Pudding

4 tablespoonfuls Crisco 4 tablespoonfuls sugar 2 eggs 1 lemon ½ cupful flour 1 cupful stewed rhubarb 1/2 teaspoonful salt Few breadcrumbs Crisco a pudding dish and dust it over with breadcrumbs. Put layer of breadcrumbs at bottom, then spread in rhubarb. Beat Crisco and sugar till creamy, beat in yolks of eggs, add grated rind of lemon, sift in flour and salt. Spread this mixture over rhubarb and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes. Beat up whites of eggs to stiff froth, add one tablespoonful of sifted sugar and half teaspoonful lemon juice. Drop in spoonfuls on top of pudding and return to oven to brown lightly, ½ cupful Crisco ½ cupful grated cheese 6 tablespoonfuls rice 1 can tomatoes

For the Modern Kitchen

A creamed sponge baked over stewed rhubarb and finished with meringue. The method is sound, but the ingredient list has some gaps and the page carries stray text from the recipe that follows.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, two years after the company put hydrogenated cottonseed oil on the market as a shortening that was neither lard nor butter. That selling point -- a fat with no animal origin -- was one the company pressed with vegetarian and kosher households, and with cooks who distrusted the summer keeping qualities of butter. The pudding itself is an old English form, a creamed sponge baked over stewed fruit, the sort of thing that in earlier books was made with butter or suet. Rhubarb was a natural choice for a promotional cookbook: it was widely grown in American kitchen gardens, known as pie plant, and reliably cheap in spring, when it was often the first thing to come out of the ground for the pastry board.

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