The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Sauce (Tablespoonful flour cupful lb)

1 tablespoonful flour 1 cupful (1/2 lb.) maple sugar 1 egg 1 cupful boiling water For cake. Cream Crisco and sugar together, add egg well beaten, molasses, milk, soda, flour, salt, and spices. Mix and turn into Criscoed tin and bake in moderate oven forty minutes.

Cakes For sauce.

Dissolve maple sugar in boiling water. Rub together Crisco and flour. Add gradually boiling syrup; and lastly the beaten egg. Then return to fire and stir briskly until thickened. Sufficient for one small gingerbread.

For the Modern Kitchen

The page as printed has collapsed two recipes into one: a gingerbread and the maple sauce meant to go over it. Only the sauce's ingredient list survives intact, and even that omits the Crisco, so treat the cake half as a fragment and use a gingerbread recipe you trust.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a wholly new product: hydrogenated cottonseed oil, sold as a shelf-stable substitute for lard and butter. Nearly every recipe in it is an ordinary domestic dish with the fat swapped out and the brand name turned into a verb, which is why the tins are "Criscoed" rather than greased. Gingerbread with a hot sweet sauce was standard New England and Midwestern home baking long before 1913, and maple sugar was the cheap sweetener in maple country, sold in cakes and grated or dissolved as needed; using it in a boiled sauce thickened with flour and egg is a thrifty variation on the hard sauces and lemon sauces served with the same cake. The garbled state of this particular page is a reminder that these promotional cookbooks were set quickly and reprinted often, and that the scans we read today sometimes preserve the errors rather than the recipe.

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