A New Snowdrift Cook Book

Mrs. Ida Bailey Allen for the Southern Cotton Oil Trading Company, 1920 — a shortening tin's cookbook, and a lesson in how fat was sold.

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Cream or White Sauce No. 1

(For Creaming Vegetables or Macaroni) 1/2 Tablespoonful Snowdrift 1 Tablespoonful Flour 1/3 Teaspoonful Salt Few Grains Pepper 1 Cupful Milk Melt the Snowdrift in a sauce-pan, stir in the flour and seasonings and very gradually add the milk, a little at a time, so that with each addition it will be entirely taken up. Bring to boiling-point, let boil three minutes, or cook over boiling water for ten minutes, when it is ready to use.

For the Modern Kitchen

A thin white sauce built on shortening rather than butter, sized for pouring over vegetables or macaroni. It works as written; the only real substitutions are the fat and the vessel.

A Little History

Snowdrift was a cottonseed-oil shortening sold by the Southern Cotton Oil Company, and this book, like Crisco's contemporaneous pamphlets, exists to prove the new fat could do everything butter and lard did. That commercial purpose shapes the page: the sauce is numbered "No. 1" as the first of a graded thin-to-thick series, and a plain white sauce is the most useful thing a manufacturer could teach, since it underlies creamed vegetables, scalloped dishes, croquettes and the whole architecture of American domestic-science cookery as codified by Fannie Farmer and the Boston Cooking School. The proportions here fat, flour and a cup of liquid, graded thin to thick are close to the cooking-school formulas of the period, though not identical to them, which is the point: the reader is meant to notice that the familiar formula works with the unfamiliar tin.

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