A New Snowdrift Cook Book

Mrs. Ida Bailey Allen for the Southern Cotton Oil Trading Company, 1920 — a shortening tin's cookbook, and a lesson in how fat was sold.

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Pan-Fried Fish

This method is generally used for small fish, or fish steaks. The fish should, of course, be cleaned, then dusted with salt and pepper, and rolled in flour, cornmeal, fine cracker crumbs, or fine bread crumbs. Melt enough Snowdrift in a frying-pan or skillet to barely cover the bottom, and when hot, lay in the fish, browning it first on one side, then on the other, and allowing from ten to twelve minutes for the cookery. Serve with sliced lemon, or any of the sauces enumerated for Broiled or Boiled Fish.

For the Modern Kitchen

A method rather than a fixed recipe, and it still works exactly as written. The few things worth adjusting are the fat, the pan and the timing for thin fillets.

A Little History

Snowdrift was one of the flagship products of the American cottonseed-oil industry, and this book exists to sell it: a manufacturer's cookbook of the sort issued in large numbers in the first decades of the twentieth century, when vegetable shortenings were competing with lard and butter for a place in the household kitchen. That commercial purpose shows in the writing, which is otherwise a clear statement of standard practice. Pan-fried fish in cornmeal is older than any branded fat, and is generally traced in the American South to the abundance of both catfish and cornmeal; the recipe's willingness to substitute flour, cracker crumbs or bread crumbs reflects a period when cooks used whatever dry starch the pantry held. The cross-reference to "sauces enumerated for Broiled or Boiled Fish" is a reminder that these books were designed to be read whole, each recipe leaning on the others.

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