Spanish Cream

A jellied custard that sets in two layers if you let it: a clear jelly below, a foam above. A few of the quantities need translating before you start.

• "¼ package gelatine"Gelatine then came in packages whose size varied by brand, so this is genuinely imprecise. One modern envelope (¼ oz, about 2¼ teaspoons, 7 g) is the usual amount for a pint of liquid; use a scant envelope if you want it barely set.
• Soak in cold milk firstThe instruction to soak the gelatine in the milk means cold milk, and it needs about five minutes to swell before any heat is applied. Granules dropped straight into warm milk tend to clump and dissolve unevenly.
• "Stir until it reaches boiling point" — do notThis is the hinge. Once the yolks are in, the mixture is a custard and will scramble well below boiling. Take it to 170-180F, when it coats a spoon, and pull it off.
• The uncooked whitesThe beaten whites go into a custard that is off the heat, and the finished cream never gets hot again. The whites are effectively raw. Use pasteurized eggs or pasteurized carton whites if you are serving anyone elderly, pregnant, very young, or immune-compromised.
• Flavour lastAdd the vanilla after the pan leaves the stove, as the sequence here implies. Alcohol-based extract stirred into hot custard loses much of its aroma.
• Why it separatesPoured warm into the mould, the heavier custard sinks and the aerated whites float, giving the traditional two-tier finish. If you want it uniform, let the mixture cool over ice until it begins to thicken before folding in the whites.
• Mould and unmouldingA 1-quart mould is right. Rinse it with cold water before filling, chill at least four hours, and dip the mould in hot water for five seconds to release.
• YieldServes four to six as written. The whipped cream or custard sauce is not optional in spirit — the cream itself is only lightly sweetened.