Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Apple Tart

Apples Paste Cloves Sugar Peel, and slice some apples, and fill a tart dish of the size required. Sweeten to taste, and add a tablespoon of water, or two if the tart is large. Put in one or two cloves if the flavor is liked. Line the edges of the dish with paste one-third of an inch thick, put on a cover, and bake in a quick oven. When the crust is cooked, raise it carefully with a knife to see whether the apples are soft, and if not let the tart remain on the stove until the apples are sufficiently cooked.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is an English-style deep dish apple pie with a top crust only, and the instructions assume a cook who already knows how to make pastry. Two details carry the dish: the pastry must be sealed to the rim, and the apples must be genuinely soft before the tart leaves the heat.

A Little History

The covered fruit tart was one of the cheapest sweet courses a household could produce, needing only windfall apples, a little sugar and flour, and a substantial fruit dessert did the work of carrying out a light dinner. The clove is the older note here; whole cloves baked among apples appear in eighteenth-century English cookery, well before cinnamon became the default American apple spice.

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