Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Apple Tart (Quart apples quartered Sugar)

1 quart apples quartered Sugar Pastry Peel and put the apples in a deep pie dish, sprinkle with sugar, cover with a pastry crust, and bake in a quick oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A deep-dish apple pie of the plainest English kind: fruit, sugar, a single top crust. The recipe assumes the cook already knows her pastry and her oven, so the working details have to be filled in.

A Little History

Covered apple pies of this sort are among the oldest continuously made English sweets. Its appearance in a meatless cookery book may be a reminder of what "meatless" often meant to publishers of the period: not so much a separate cuisine as a reorganisation of the ordinary one, gathering the dishes that happened to contain no flesh so that Lenten and vegetarian households could plan whole menus from a single volume. The word "tart" is used loosely here; in British usage it has covered open and covered fruit pies more or less interchangeably for centuries, and the shallow uncovered tart is a later narrowing of the term.

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