Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Baked Onions

Baked Onions

6 medium-sized onions 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter Peel the onions, and cook in boiling salted water. Boil five minutes, drain, and again cover with boiling, salted water. Cook uncovered until tender, taking care not to boil so rapidly that the onions are broken. Drain, and place on a buttered pan, and brush with the melted butter. Bake in a hot oven until nicely browned.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward two-stage method: parboil to tame the sulphur, then roast to brown. The only real decision is how hot the oven runs.

A Little History

Meatless cookery of the early twentieth century was often driven less by vegetarian conviction than by economy, particularly around the First World War, when meat was expensive and households were urged to conserve it, and cookbooks of the period gathered chapters of "meat substitutes". An onion is not a protein substitute in any nutritional sense, but a large, browned, buttery onion occupies the centre of a plate the way a chop does, and that visual and structural role was much of what such chapters were after. Parboiling onions through two waters to soften their bite appears in nineteenth-century English and American cookery, and the finishing bake is the same logic that browns a roast, applied to a vegetable.

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