Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Baked Tomato on Toast

6 slices of bread 6 thick slices of tomatoes 1 tablespoon butter 3/4 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon salt Trim the crust from the bread and toast to an even brown. Select firm ripe tomatoes. Remove the stem, and cut into two or three slices according to the thickness of the tomato. The slices should be about three-quarters of an inch thick. Place the tomatoes in a buttered pan; sprinkle with salt, and dot each slice with a bit of butter. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Moisten the toast by dipping quickly into the hot milk. Place a slice of baked tomato on each slice of toast. Garnish with a sprig of parsley.

For the Modern Kitchen

A simple wartime-era supper dish that depends almost entirely on the quality of the tomatoes and on getting the toast moistened without turning it to mush.

A Little History

Meatless cookery books of this kind multiplied in the United States around the First World War, when Food Administration campaigns urged households to observe meatless days and to stretch scarce fats and proteins. Dishes "on toast" were a familiar feature of such collections: a slice of bread turned a vegetable into a course, and the toast could be revived with hot milk rather than butter. Baked tomatoes in particular were a summer standby, since the fruit was cheap and abundant in season and its acidity and savour gave a plain meal something of the satisfaction of meat. The parsley sprig is a garnish often associated with the era, appearing at the end of recipes as a matter of course.

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