Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Bread Pudding

1 pound of pieces of stale bread 1 pint of boiling milk Little nutmeg 2 ounces of butter 1 1/2 ounces moist sugar 4 ounces of sultanas Pour the milk on the bread, let it stand for a few minutes, then mash it up. Mix the sugar and butter together, and add to the bread and milk; mix well, and put in a buttered dish, and bake one and one-half hours in a moderate oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain, eggless bread pudding of the thrifty English sort — dense and sliceable rather than custardy. A few of the quantities and terms need translating before you start.

A Little History

Bread pudding of this kind is the least glamorous and most useful thing in the English repertoire: a way of turning the heel of the loaf into a dessert when bread was expensive and throwing it out was unthinkable. The absence of eggs looks deliberate rather than accidental, though the distinction is often overstated: eggless milk-and-bread versions sat alongside egged ones in period cookbooks, and eggs and cream are more often associated with the richer bread-and-butter pudding. Sultanas, seedless and imported dried from the eastern Mediterranean, were by this period a common cheap baking fruit in British kitchens, though currants and raisins remained in wide use.

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