Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBeverages › Cereal Coffee

Cereal Coffee

8 tablespoons cereal coffee 1/4 saltspoon butter 1 quart cold water Put the cereal into coffee pot with the cold water and butter; boil twenty minutes. Serve with sugar and hot milk or cream. It may be cooked without butter in a percolator.

For the Modern Kitchen

A quart of grain-based coffee substitute, boiled rather than infused. The method is sound for roasted cereal, which needs real extraction time, but two of the measurements will stop a modern cook.

A Little History

Grain coffees are older than the health-food movement that made them famous — roasted barley, rye and chicory stood in for coffee whenever war or blockade cut off supply, notably across Europe during the Napoleonic years. The American version this recipe assumes belongs to the Battle Creek orbit of the 1890s, where roasted wheat-and-molasses beverages were sold as a caffeine-free substitute and marketed hard against coffee on health grounds; Postum is the brand generally credited with putting it in ordinary kitchens. Its appearance in a meatless cookbook is not accidental: books of this kind, published around the First World War, gathered together the reform table and the economy table at once, and a beverage that used no imported bean suited both arguments equally well.

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