Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBeverages › Bran Lemonade

Bran Lemonade

1/4 cup bran Juice of 1 lemon 2 cups cold water Let the bran and water stand overnight. Strain, and add the juice of the lemon. Chill and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient infusion that behaves more like a barley water than a lemonade. The technique is all in the soak and the strain.

A Little History

Bran water belongs to the family of grain infusions — barley water, oatmeal water, toast water — that ran through nineteenth-century invalid cookery and carried on into the health-reform kitchens of the early twentieth. Such drinks were cheap, non-alcoholic and thought to be soothing and gently regulating, which recommended them to temperance households and to the health-reform tradition generally. Bran was then largely a milling byproduct sold as animal feed, while dietary reformers argued that the part being discarded was the part worth eating. The digestive virtues claimed for it were traditional rather than tested, and, as the straining step suggests, mostly stayed in the sieve.

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