Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Corn Meal Cutlets

Corn Meal Cutlets

Turn corn meal mush into bread tins previously wet with cold water; when cold, slice. Dip the sliced mush into bread crumbs. Place in a buttered pan, and bake in a quick oven until a rich brown. Serve with butter or maple syrup.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-stage recipe: cook a stiff cornmeal mush the day before, then slice and bake it the next morning. The original assumes you already know how to make mush, which is the part that decides whether the slices hold together.

A Little History

Cornmeal mush, chilled and sliced and then fried or baked, is a long-established American dish with roots in Native American preparations of boiled ground maize; similar chilled-and-sliced treatments appear in Pennsylvania scrapple and, by a separate European route, in Italian polenta fritters. Calling the slices "cutlets" suggests a meat-substitute framing, a cutlet meaning a thin slice of veal or mutton, though grain and legume "cutlets" also appear in mainstream cookbooks of the period. Vegetarian and reform cookery of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries did borrow butcher's vocabulary to make a plate of grain or legume read as a main course rather than a side dish. Meatless cookery of the period was driven by several currents at once, including Seventh-day Adventist and other religious dietary teaching, health-reform enthusiasm for whole grains, and simple economy, cornmeal being among the cheapest foods available. Serving the same slices with maple syrup for breakfast or with gravy at dinner was a practical virtue in a household cooking one pot of mush.

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