Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Creamed Chicken

1 cup cold cooked chicken 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Salt, paprika 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour 1 cup rich milk Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and pour the milk in slowly, stirring constantly. Cook until the raw taste of the flour is gone. Add the parsley and seasoning and the diced chicken and cook five minutes. Serve on toast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain white sauce with chicken folded in — the whole thing hinges on cooking the roux long enough and keeping the sauce loose enough to pour.

A Little History

Creamed chicken on toast is often said to have been one of the standard uses for the remains of a boiled or roast fowl in American and British households from the late nineteenth century onward, and it is essentially a white sauce carrying whatever cooked meat was to hand. Its appearance in a book called Meatless Cookery is less strange than it looks: for much of this period "meat" often meant butcher's meat, the red flesh of beef, mutton and pork, and books written for wartime meat conservation, or for invalid and light cookery, could admit poultry, fish and eggs. Dishes of this kind seem also to have been prized because they stretched a small quantity of expensive protein across several plates, and because a soft, mildly seasoned dish on toast was thought suitable for children, convalescents and the elderly.

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