Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeEggs › Golden-Rod Eggs

Golden-Rod Eggs

2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon flour Chopped parsley Salt, pepper 1 1/2 cups of milk 4 hard boiled eggs Make a sauce of the butter, flour, parsley, milk and seasoning. Chop the eggs and add them to the sauce. When well blended pour over buttered toast and serve hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A creamed-egg dish on toast, of the kind that carried breakfast and supper in the years when eggs stood in for meat. The original leaves several quantities to the cook's judgement.

A Little History

"Golden-rod eggs" appears in American cookbooks and domestic-science manuals from around the turn of the twentieth century, usually in the breakfast or supper chapters, and the name is generally traced to the look of sieved yolk sprinkled over a pale sauce rather than to any ingredient. Creamed eggs on toast belonged to a family of cheap, quickly assembled dishes — chipped beef, creamed codfish, welsh rarebit — that turned a white sauce and one substantial ingredient into a meal. Its appeal to cooks avoiding meat is straightforward: eggs and milk were the standard protein stand-ins for households observing Lent, following a doctor's or reformer's advice against flesh, or keeping the voluntary meatless days urged on American cooks during the First World War. The dish survives in institutional cooking well past the period.

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