Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Hot Pot

Hot Pot

1 1/2 pounds potatoes 3/4 pound onions 1 small tomato 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 ounce butter 1/4 pint milk Pepper and salt The onions and potatoes must both be weighed after they are peeled. Slice the onions and potatoes, and throw them into cold water. Bring them quickly to boiling point, and let them boil one minute--not more, then drain them. Put them into a baking dish with the tomato, which must be skinned and sliced. Add the chopped parsley, which must be sprinkled over the potatoes and onions, and mixed in. Season with pepper and salt. Pour in the milk, and break up the butter in bits, and place it over the top. It can be baked in a covered baking dish or an ordinary pie dish, and will take two hours to cook in a moderate oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain potato-and-onion bake that stands in for a meat hot pot. Nothing here is difficult, but the proportions and the two-hour bake need translating.

A Little History

Hot pot proper is a Lancashire dish of mutton or lamb chops layered under sliced potatoes and baked slowly in a tall earthenware pot — the potatoes on top brown while the meat beneath stews in its own liquor. What appears here is that structure with the meat removed and onions promoted to fill the gap: three-quarters of a pound of onion to a pound and a half of potato is a far higher proportion than a garnish. Books of meatless cookery are often said to have worked by this method of substitution, taking familiar names from the standard repertoire and rebuilding them around vegetables, milk and cheese, so that a household giving up meat on religious, economic or reforming grounds could still put a recognisable dish on the table under a recognisable name.

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