Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeSalad Dressings › Sour Cream Dressing

Sour Cream Dressing

1/2 pint sour cream 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons vinegar 1 scant tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon or more mixed mustard Beat the cream with an egg beater till smooth, thick and light. Mix the other ingredients together, and gradually add to the cream, beating all the while. Having beaten sour cream for a foundation the seasoning may be anything desired, as, for example, the mustard and lemon may be omitted, and the dressing be seasoned highly with any kind of catsup. A sweet cream may be substituted for the sour; it should be quite thick.

For the Modern Kitchen

A whisked cream dressing rather than an emulsified one, and it depends entirely on the thickness of the cream you start with.

A Little History

Sour cream dressings entered American cookbooks in good part through German, Bohemian and Scandinavian kitchens, where soured cream was an everyday by-product of a household that skimmed its own milk and where it went onto cucumbers, cabbage and lettuce. The recipe's assumption that a cook has half a pint of sour cream to hand marks it as pre-refrigeration writing: cream soured whether you wanted it to or not, and dressings like this one were as much a use for it as a choice. Books that leaned on dairy and eggs used them to carry the richness a joint would otherwise have supplied, and a cream dressing turns a plate of raw vegetables into something substantial enough to serve as a course. The open-ended closing note, that the seasoning "may be anything desired," is characteristic of the period's salad writing, which treated dressings as formulas to be varied rather than fixed recipes.

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