Malted Milk Cocoa

A soda-fountain drink scaled to a saucepan. The only tricky part is that both powders clump the instant they hit boiling water.

• Make a paste firstStir the malted milk and cocoa with two or three tablespoons of cold or warm water until smooth, then add the rest of the water. Dumping dry powder into boiling water gives lumps that never fully disperse.
• The three-minute boilThe book gives no reason for it; the usual explanation offered for boiling cocoa is to take the raw edge off the powder. Either way, a hard boil risks scorching milk solids on the pan bottom, so a bare simmer with constant whisking for two to three minutes is safer.
• Horlick's, then and nowThe malted milk of this period was a powder of malted barley, wheat flour and dried milk with no added sugar, sold as an invalid and infant food. Current supermarket malted milk powders are often sweetened, and some malt drink powders include cocoa; use a plain malted milk powder if you can find one, and cut the added sugar if you cannot.
• SugarIt appears in the ingredient list with no quantity, i.e. to taste. For three cups, one to two tablespoons suits unsweetened cocoa; add it with the powders so it dissolves in the heat.
• CocoaFour teaspoons in three cups is a light hand by modern taste. The book says only 'cocoa'; natural (non-alkalized) cocoa is the likelier reading. Dutch-process gives a darker, mellower cup and slightly less acidity.
• No milk in itDespite the name, the liquid is all water, the dairy coming from the powder. It reads thin to anyone expecting hot chocolate. Substituting a cup of the water with milk gives a richer cup.
• YieldAbout three cups, so three small servings or two generous ones.