Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Nut and Potato Patties

Nut and Potato Patties

5 ounces of potatoes 2 ounces pine kernels 2 ounces of almonds or walnuts 1 ounce butter 1 tablespoon cream A little parsley Pepper and salt Cook, and mash the potatoes with the butter and cream, and cut into rounds about two inches thick, with a tumbler; cover with moist bread crumbs, and fry in boiling oil until the outside is quite crisp. Take them out, and drain them, and make a hole in the center. Remove all the soft potato inside, or as much as possible without breaking the case. Grind the nuts together through a nut mill, and fill up the potato case with this. Or, if preferred, a filling of grated cheese is very nice, with a little chopped parsley on top. The above quantity will make six patties.

For the Modern Kitchen

A small Edwardian savoury: fried mashed-potato cases with a raw ground-nut filling. The recipe is short but it hides one real difficulty, which is getting a mash stiff enough to survive hot oil.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to a wave of vegetarian cookery writing that came out of Britain and America around the turn of the twentieth century, much of it connected to the food-reform and temperance movements, and it leans heavily on nuts. Nuts were the period's answer to the protein question: they were understood to be concentrated and "nourishing," and nut mills, nut butters and nut "meats" were sold specifically to vegetarian households. Pine kernels were imported, which may suggest this is a genteel recipe rather than an economical one. The construction — fry a potato case, hollow it, fill it — is a general form of the period rather than one with a traceable pedigree, and the substitution of ground nuts for the usual minced meat or game is exactly the move the whole book is built on.

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