Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Peppers and Cheese

Peppers and Cheese

2 ounces of cheese 1 tablespoon chopped peppers 1 tablespoon of butter Paprika, salt and mustard Melt the cheese in a saucepan with the butter, and add the finely chopped peppers and the seasoning to taste. Cook until well blended and serve on rounds of toast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ounce rarebit for one, from the era when a chafing dish stood on the sideboard. The whole thing hinges on keeping the heat low enough that the cheese never breaks.

A Little History

Meatless cookbooks of the period leaned hard on cheese, and this is essentially a small Welsh rarebit with green pepper folded in. The genre is generally traced to two overlapping movements: vegetarian reform and the ordinary domestic-science drive to find cheap protein for days when meat was dear or when religious observance forbade it — dishes of this kind were meant to occupy the centre of a plate, not the edge. Cheese-on-toast preparations like this are often said to have been chafing-dish food, cooked at the table over a spirit lamp for late suppers, which would explain the tiny quantities and the assumption of constant attention. Green sweet peppers are thought to have been a comparatively new commercial crop in the American North at the time, and cookbooks of the period use them freely as a bright, cheap way to make a plain cheese mixture look like a composed dish.

← Cheese Fondue (Cups hot milk cups of soft)Cheese Dumpling →