Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Poached Whites of Eggs Plain

Take four whites of eggs, and poach them in a poacher, and either serve on hot buttered toast with pepper and salt or on spinach.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-line recipe that depends entirely on equipment: egg whites cannot be free-poached in open water the way whole eggs can, which is why the original insists on a poacher.

A Little History

Sections devoted to "whites of eggs" and "yolks of eggs" were a fixture of household cookbooks a century ago for a practical reason: a kitchen that made its own custards, cakes, mayonnaise and clear soups constantly ended up with one half of the egg unused, and throwing food away was close to a moral failing. Clarifying consommé used the whites; sponge cakes and boiled icings took whites while sauces and puddings took yolks; and the surplus had to be turned back into a meal. The dish itself is essentially poached eggs on toast with the richest part removed - a frugal cook's version of a hotel breakfast, and a reminder of how much the flavour of an egg lives in the yolk.

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