Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBeverages › Raspberry Shrub

Raspberry Shrub

4 quarts raspberries 1 pint pear vinegar Sugar Pick over the raspberries, cover one half with the vinegar and let stand twenty-four hours. Strain through cheese-cloth. Pour the liquor over the remaining raspberries, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Again strain through cheese-cloth. To each cup of juice, add one-half pound of sugar. Heat gradually until the sugar is dissolved; then boil fifteen minutes. Bottle and cork. If too strong dilute with water.

For the Modern Kitchen

A vinegar-based fruit syrup, meant to be diluted at the glass rather than drunk straight. The instructions are sound; the ambiguities are the vinegar, the sugar ratio and the keeping.

A Little History

Shrub reaches English through the Arabic sharāb, simply "a drink," and by the eighteenth century meant a sweetened fruit concentrate, sometimes spiked with rum or brandy, sometimes soured with vinegar as here. The vinegar version was the practical one for a household without ice: acid and heavy sugar together preserve the fruit's flavour through a summer, and a spoonful in water made a cooling drink for field hands and invalids alike. The call for pear vinegar is a small window on the same economy: fruit vinegars were sometimes made at home from bruised and surplus fruit, though vinegar was also widely bought.

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