Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Stuffed Potatoes No. 1

Stuffed Potatoes No. 1

6 medium sized potatoes 1/3 to 1/2 cup milk or cream 2 to 3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon salt Select well-shaped potatoes of about equal size. Bake until soft, then cut or break the potato at about the middle. Remove the contents, mash the potato, add salt, butter and sufficient cream or milk to cause the potato to beat up light. When very light, fill the skins with the seasoned potato, piling it up in irregular shapes. Set the stuffed potatoes in the oven for a few minutes to brown.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward twice-baked potato, written before oven dials were standard. The only real skill in it is getting the mash light before it goes back into the skins.

A Little History

Meatless cookbooks proliferated in the English-speaking world during the First World War, when voluntary meatless days were promoted as a way of freeing up meat for armies and allies, and the potato — cheap, filling and domestically grown — did much of the heavy lifting. Treating a stuffed baked potato as a stand-in for meat reflects the period's nutritional thinking: a dish was considered to substitute for meat largely if it was substantial and satisfying at the center of a plate, well before protein content was routinely calculated. The technique itself is older than the wartime books, appearing in nineteenth-century household manuals as a way of making a plain baked potato company-worthy, and it survives essentially unchanged as the twice-baked potato.

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