Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Wine Pudding

8 ounces stale cake crumbs 1 wineglass sherry 1 pint milk 1 ounce of sugar Pass the cake through a nut mill, or break into small pieces, put it into a basin, and pour the boiling milk over; let it stand for fifteen minutes, then beat well with a fork, and add the sugar and sherry. Put into a greased pie dish to bake for twenty minutes. A little lemon rind or juice may be added if liked.

For the Modern Kitchen

A frugal stale-cake pudding with no eggs and no flour, so it never sets firm — expect something between a bread pudding and a thick soaked sponge. A few of the measures need translating.

A Little History

Puddings built on stale cake or bread were a fixture of the Victorian and Edwardian kitchen, where nothing baked was allowed to go to waste and a leftover sponge had a second life as cabinet pudding, queen of puddings, or this simpler wine pudding. The sherry is doing double duty: it flavours a dish whose base ingredients are deliberately cheap, and it signals a certain respectability at table. Vegetarian and Lenten cookbooks of the early twentieth century leaned heavily on milk, eggs and cereal foods, and their dessert chapters were often close cousins of the standard general cookbooks of the day.

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