The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods

Ida Bailey Allen tells the story of American corn — Plymouth breakfasts to the Great War — and hangs a day's four meals on it, for the company that made Karo and Mazola.

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Corned Beef Hash Au Gratin

2 cups chopped, corned beef 2 cups chopped, cooked potatoes Milk to moisten Mazola Coarse bread crumbs 1 small onion put through food chopper Combine the corned beef, potatoes and onion, or use one cup of potato, a second of chopped beets, carrots or cabbage that may be left over. Pour in enough milk to bind the mixture together and season to taste with salt and pepper. Thoroughly oil muffin pans with Mazola and dust with coarse bread crumbs. Pack in the hash, cover with coarse crumbs moistened with Mazola and bake in a hot oven, 375 degrees F.

For the Modern Kitchen

A leftovers dish from a corn-oil promotional cookbook, baked in muffin tins so each portion gets a crust on all sides. The quantities are loose by design; the technique is the point.

A Little History

This comes from a corn-oil cookbook, one of a large family of manufacturer-published recipe booklets that circulated in American kitchens through the first half of the twentieth century, each written to demonstrate a single branded product in as many dishes as possible. Hash itself is far older, its name from the French hacher, to chop, and corned beef hash is often said to have been a Monday dish built from the boiled dinner of the day before, the "corn" referring to the coarse grains of salt used to cure the beef. What marks this version as modern for its period is the muffin pan: turning a skillet dish into individual moulded portions was a genteel touch that also solved the eternal hash problem of getting crust on more than one side. The offhand suggestion to substitute leftover beets, carrots or cabbage tells you the recipe was understood as a method rather than a formula.

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