The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Curried Cauliflower

4 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1 cauliflower 1 sliced onion 1 dessertspoonful curry powder 1 tablespoonful lemon juice 1/4 teaspoonful salt 1 cupful stock or water Boil cauliflower in boiling salted water till tender, drain, then divide into small flowerets. Fry onion in Crisco a few minutes, then add curry powder, lemon juice and stock or water. Simmer fifteen minutes, then strain into clean saucepan. Add cauliflower and salt and simmer fifteen minutes.

Serve hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward curried vegetable side from Procter & Gamble's 1913 Crisco promotional cookbook. The one thing worth changing is the total cooking time.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a brand-new product: a solid, shelf-stable vegetable shortening made by hydrogenating cottonseed oil, introduced two years earlier. The book's job was to prove the fat could do everything butter, lard and suet did — frying, pastry, cake, and here, the base of a vegetable curry — and much of it reads as ordinary Anglo-American cookery with the fat swapped out. The curry itself is British-imperial rather than Indian: a single commercial curry powder, a sliced onion, lemon juice and stock, simmered and strained to a thin sauce. That formula reached American kitchens by way of England, where blended curry powders were being advertised by the late eighteenth century. Crisco was also promoted early on as kosher and suitable for vegetarians, though nothing connects that marketing to the inclusion of this particular recipe.

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