The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Fried Parsley

1 bunch parsley Salt and pepper to taste Wash, pick and dry the parsley; put into frying basket and immerse in hot Crisco fifteen seconds or until crisp. Drain and sprinkle with salt and pepper. It should be a nice green color. If it turns black it has been too long in the fat.

Green Peas a la Maitre d'Hotel 4 tablespoonfuls Crisco 1 quart shelled peas Salt and pepper to taste 1 tablespoonful lemon juice ½ sprigs mint 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley 1 teaspoonful sugar Shell peas and throw into plenty boiling water containing a teaspoonful of salt, sugar, and mint; boil fast until tender, then drain. Mix lemon juice with Crisco, and parsley; stir this among peas, reheat them, and serve at once.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two short vegetable recipes share this page: a deep-fried parsley garnish and buttered peas made with shortening instead of butter. Both are quick, and both depend on one detail the text glosses over.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was published by Procter & Gamble to teach American cooks what to do with a product that had no precedent in their kitchens: a shelf-stable white vegetable shortening that could replace both butter and lard. That explains the odd shape of these two recipes. Fried parsley was an established garnish in nineteenth-century French and Anglo-American cookery, so it makes a natural demonstration of the new fat's high smoke point and clean flavor. Peas a la maitre d'hotel is likewise a borrowed classic "maitre d'hotel butter" is butter worked with lemon juice and parsley and the book simply swaps in Crisco, which is why the dressing behaves less gracefully than the original. The volume's larger argument, made repeatedly in its opening pages, was that a vegetable fat was more economical, more digestible and less prone to rancidity than animal fat; the nutritional case for hydrogenated oils has since reversed entirely, but the recipes survive as a record of how a new industrial ingredient was introduced through familiar dishes.

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