The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Stuffed Eggplant

3 tablespoonfuls Crisco 3 small eggplants ½ cupful breadcrumbs 1½ cupfuls stock 1/2 cupful chopped cooked chicken or veal 1 egg Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste ½ cupful white wine Criscoed crumbs 1 tablespoonful flour 1 tablespoonful sherry Cut eggplants in halves and scoop out inside, leaving shell half inch thick. Soak 1/2 cupful breadcrumbs in 1/2 cupful stock ten minutes, then add cooked chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls melted Crisco, egg, well beaten, and seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg. Divide this forcemeat into eggplants, sprinkle Criscoed crumbs on top, set them in greased pan, pour. in rest of stock and white wine and bake half hour in moderate oven. Serve on hot dish with following sauce.

Put 1 tablespoonful Crisco and 1 tablespoonful flour into saucepan saucep and blend over fire, add sherry and 1 cupful liquor from pan in which they were baked, and cook five minutes.

Sufficient for three eggplants.

For the Modern Kitchen

A French-style aubergine farcie rewritten to sell shortening. The proportions are printed carelessly, so read the method rather than the ingredient list.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, which had introduced Crisco in 1911 as a shortening made from hydrogenated cottonseed oil. The book's job was to prove the new fat could do everything lard and butter did, which is why the product name appears five times in a single stuffed-vegetable recipe, including the coined verb "Criscoed." The dish itself is much older than the product: stuffed eggplant halves bound with soaked bread, an egg and a little minced cooked meat are common in French and Italian household cookery, and the sherry-finished pan gravy places this version in the genteel Anglo-American register that P&G was courting. Eggplant was still a comparatively unfamiliar vegetable in much of the United States at the time, and turns up in period cookbooks chiefly fried in slices or stuffed like this one.

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