The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Top Layer

2 cupfuls flour ½ cupful Crisco 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder ½ teaspoonful salt

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a component, not a finished dish: the upper crust of a two-layer pastry, given as an ingredient list with the method assumed. A few of the printed fractions do not add up, and that is the first thing to settle.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written for Procter & Gamble by Marion Harris Neil, then cookery editor of the Ladies' Home Journal, to teach American cooks what to do with a fat that had no precedent in their kitchens. Crisco, introduced in 1911, was hydrogenated cottonseed oil: a solid vegetable shortening that behaved something like lard, kept without refrigeration, and was marketed heavily to households that avoided pork fat, including Jewish cooks for whom it was pareve. Pastry arguably makes the book's best case for the new fat, and entries like this one — for a top and bottom layer, with the technique taken for granted — show how much a 1913 reader was assumed to already know about rubbing fat into flour.

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