Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Baked Lima Beans

Baked Lima Beans

1 quart dried lima beans 1/4 cup butter 1 1/2 tablespoons salt 3 cups milk Soak the beans over night, and cook in water until tender. Drain, put in a baking dish, and add butter, milk and salt. Bake one and one-half hours slowly.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain casserole of limas baked in milk, from the era when "meat substitute" meant protein-dense beans rather than anything engineered. Two things need attention: the salt and the amount of beans.

A Little History

Meatless cookbooks proliferated in the United States in the 1910s and 1920s, driven by wartime food conservation, Seventh-day Adventist and other vegetarian reform movements, and the newly popular idea that protein could be reckoned in grams from any source. Lima beans were an obvious candidate for meat substitution: cheap, shelf-stable, and higher in protein than most vegetables. The name is generally traced to the Peruvian capital, from which the beans were said to have been shipped in the nineteenth century, though the plant was domesticated in the Andes and in Mesoamerica millennia before that. Baking beans in milk and butter rather than the more familiar molasses and pork was a way of building richness without meat, and it points to how much of early meatless cookery leaned on dairy to do the work fat and salt pork had done before.

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