Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Bean Croquettes

Bean Croquettes

3 cups stewed or baked beans 3 cups corn flakes 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons strained tomato 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Soak one cup of beans in cold water over night, then cook in three or four pints of water, and cook until tender; when quite dry, add the butter, strained tomato and salt if desired. Lastly, fold in the cornflakes--the quantity of flakes will depend upon the dryness of the beans--and form into croquettes. When shaped, place in a hot oven, and bake until nicely browned.

For the Modern Kitchen

A wartime protein dish that depends entirely on moisture control: the beans must be dry enough to hold a shape before the flakes go in. Everything else is straightforward.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to the flood of American cookbooks published around the First World War, a period when households were widely urged to keep meatless days and to lean on vegetable sources of protein — chiefly beans, lentils, peanuts and nuts — though the book's own framing is dietetic rather than that of a conservation pamphlet. Croquettes were the standard vehicle: shaping a soft savoury mash into neat cylinders let cooks serve a bean paste in the place on the plate where a cutlet would otherwise sit, with the same sauce and the same garnish. The corn flakes are the period detail. Flaked breakfast cereals are generally said to have become commercially available only in the first years of the century, out of Battle Creek, Michigan, and cookbook writers of the 1910s and 1920s appear to have seized on them as a ready-made binder and coating that saved both bread and eggs, both of which were also being conserved. Recipes calling for crushed cereal in place of crumbs are not hard to find in the substitute-cookery literature of these years.

← Baked Lima BeansItalian Beets →