Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBread, Etc. › Batter for Frying Savories

Batter for Frying Savories

1/2 pint of milk 2 ounces of flour 1/2 teaspoon of baking powder Mix the milk and flour very smoothly together, adding the milk a little at a time until it is all used; stir in the salt. The batter must always be mixed at least three hours before it is required or it will not be light. Add the baking powder just before the batter is used, and be careful to mix it very thoroughly.

For the Modern Kitchen

A thin coating batter for dipping vegetables, cheese or fritters before frying. The ingredient list omits the salt the method calls for, and the quantities are British.

A Little History

A batter of this kind turned almost anything — cauliflower, parsnip, cheese, cooked rice, leftover vegetables — into something substantial enough to head a plate where a chop would otherwise sit. "Savories" here may carry the British sense, the small hot dish at the close of a meal, or may simply stand as the counterpart to a sweet fritter, which is why the batter carries no sugar. The instruction to rest a batter for hours predates any explanation of gluten and starch hydration; the practice was established before the chemistry accounted for it.

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