Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBeverages › Lemonade

Lemonade

1 lemon 1 cup boiling water 2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 thin slice lemon Wash the lemon and cut a very thin slice from the middle. Put the sugar in a bowl, squeeze the juice in it, remove the seeds, add the boiling water; cover, and put on ice to cool. Strain, and serve in a glass. Cut half the slice of lemon into two pieces, and use as a garnish; or a few berries or slice of orange may be used.

For the Modern Kitchen

A single-glass lemonade built on hot water rather than a syrup, which is what makes it work: the sugar dissolves completely instead of settling as grit in the bottom.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to the run of American cookbooks published around the First World War, when meat conservation and vegetarian cookery briefly shared the same shelf, and its beverage chapter is written in the careful single-portion style of invalid cookery — one lemon, one cup, one glass, chilled and strained and garnished as if for a tray. Lemonade itself is old: the word comes through the French limonade, and the trade is generally traced to seventeenth-century Paris, where vendors of sweetened lemon drinks were organised into their own guild. What dates this version is not the drink but the method. Before bottled syrups and reliable refrigeration, the recipe dissolves sugar in boiling water and then sets the bowl on ice to get a clear, fully sweetened glass, and it directs the cook to cover it while it cools.

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