Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeFrozen Desserts › Cranberry Sherbet

Cranberry Sherbet

4 cups sugar Juice of 1 lemon 3 pints water 2 quarts cranberries After looking over the berries carefully, cover them with hot water, and cook until tender; then strain through a colander or sieve sufficiently fine to exclude the seeds. Add the sugar, and cook until dissolved, then add the lemon juice, and turn into a freezer. This sherbet should not be allowed to stand in the freezer any length of time.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain water ice built on cooked cranberry pulp, written for a hand-crank freezer. Two details matter: the sugar is high because cranberries are aggressively acidic, and the finished sherbet was never meant to sit.

A Little History

Cranberry sherbet belongs to a family of water ices that filled a specific slot in turn-of-the-century American menus: a sharp, dairy-free ice served midway through a long dinner or alongside roast fowl, closer in spirit to a sauce than a dessert. It is made with nothing but berries, sugar, water and lemon. The cranberry itself is a North American native, harvested from cultivated bogs in Massachusetts and New Jersey by the late nineteenth century and cheap enough in autumn to be used by the quart. Freezing it required an ice-and-salt crank freezer and a supply of ice, and the closing warning about not letting the sherbet stand is a reminder that the freezer was a churn, not a place to keep things.

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