Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Curried Vegetables and Macaroni

Curried Vegetables and Macaroni

1/4 pound carrots 1 large apple 1 tablespoon flour 3 teaspoons curry powder 2 ounces butter 1 teaspoon chutney 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 onion 3 potatoes 3 turnips 4 ounces macaroni 1 pint boiling water 1/4 pound mushrooms Cut the mushrooms, the vegetables, and the apple into small pieces, and fry in two ounces of butter. Mix the flour, chutney and curry powder together and sprinkle over the vegetables; add the lemon juice and stir over the fire for a few seconds, then add the boiling water and the macaroni which has been broken and boiled in salted water until tender. Mix well together and cook in a double saucepan for two hours. Serve with boiled rice.

For the Modern Kitchen

A wartime-era vegetable curry bulked out with macaroni, meant to stand in for a meat main. The method is sound but the timing belongs to an age of coal ranges and standing pots.

A Little History

Meatless cookery of this sort is often associated with the wartime kitchen, though nothing in the recipe itself fixes it to a particular moment. Curry powder was the obvious tool: it had been a fixture of the British domestic pantry since the late eighteenth century, sold ready-blended, and it could make a plate of carrots, turnips and potatoes taste like something deliberate. The apple-and-chutney sweetening is the signature of the anglicised curry that developed alongside it, a long way from any Indian regional practice and generally traced to the returning Anglo-Indian households who wanted the flavour without the technique. Macaroni doing duty as the substantial element, with rice served alongside as well, tells you how the period thought about filling a plate when the meat was gone: starch on starch, and no apology for it.

← Macaroni PuddingSpaghetti Croquettes →