Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Lentil and Potato Loaf

Lentil and Potato Loaf

1 3/4 cups lentil puree 2 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup cream 1 teaspoon salt 1/3 teaspoon sage 2 cups riced potato 1 tablespoon butter To prepare the lentil, soak one cup of raw lentils over night. Then cook in boiling water until tender, which will usually require an hour or more. When almost done, allow the water to evaporate until the lentils are quite dry. Put them through a colander to form a puree. Then mix with the puree the butter, cream, salt and sage. To prepare the potatoes, peel and cook two or three medium sized potatoes in boiling, salted water until tender. Drain, and dry by shaking gently over the flame. Force through a ricer or colander, season with butter, and if necessary, additional salt. Place the lentil mixture in the bottom of a buttered baking dish or pan, and on top of this place a layer of the mashed potato. Brush the top with a little cream or melted butter, and bake until nicely browned.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward two-layer bake that reads like a vegetarian shepherd's pie. The original leaves out oven temperature and time, so those are the main gaps to fill.

A Little History

Meatless Cookery belongs to a wave of American cookbooks published around the First World War, when meat was scarce and expensive and "meat substitute" cookery moved from vegetarian and Seventh-day Adventist circles into mainstream household advice. The organizing idea of that period was protein arithmetic: a legume, a nut or a cheese was proposed as a direct substitute for a chop, and the dish was often shaped in a loaf pan precisely so it could be sliced and served in the position a roast would occupy on the plate. Lentils suited the argument well, being cheap, storable dry, and substantial in protein. The butter, cream and riced potato here do a second job beyond richness, since a lentil puree alone has no gluten or egg to bind it and would otherwise fall apart under the knife.

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