Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBeverages › Fruitade

Fruitade

1/4 cup grated pineapple Juice 1/2 lemon 1 cup boiling water Juice 1/2 orange Sugar Add the boiling water to the pineapple and fruit juices with one tablespoon sugar; let it stand until cool. Add more water and sugar if necessary. Strain, and serve cold.

For the Modern Kitchen

A single-serving fruit cordial from the era before canned juice was a pantry staple. The method is essentially a hot infusion, which matters more than it looks.

A Little History

Fruitades are often associated with the American sickroom and temperance tradition, where lemonade was the model and any tart fruit could be substituted, though nothing in this recipe itself settles the point. This one appears in a meatless cookery book, and such volumes are generally said to have treated beverages as a proper course rather than an afterthought: with no wine or beer on the table and coffee and tea often discouraged, fruit drinks carried much of the burden of refreshment.

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