Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeMeat Substitutes › Pimento and Cheese Roast

Pimento and Cheese Roast

2 cups cooked lima beans 1/4 pound cream cheese, commercial or homemade 3 canned pimentos chopped Bread crumbs Put the first three ingredients through a nut chopper. Mix thoroughly, and add bread crumbs until it is stiff enough to form into a ball. Brown in the oven, basting occasionally with butter and water.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain vegetable loaf of the sort that filled the "meat substitute" chapters of wartime cookbooks. It works, but the original assumes a good deal of unstated knowledge about seasoning, oven heat and timing.

A Little History

Books titled Meatless Cookery appeared in the United States around the First World War, when the Food Administration urged households to observe meatless days so that beef and pork could be shipped abroad. The "meat substitute" chapter is the heart of such books, and its standard form is the loaf or roast: pulses, nuts or cheese ground together, bound with crumbs, shaped and browned so it could be carved and sauced at table like a joint. The pimento here is a marker of its moment — canned Spanish-type sweet peppers had become cheap and widely available in American groceries in the years after 1900, with Georgia growers supplying much of the crop, and cooks reached for them constantly for colour in an otherwise pale dish. The pairing of pimento with fresh cheese was common in this period, and is often linked to the origins of the enduring Southern spread of the same name, though the combination was commercially promoted in the North before it became a Southern staple.

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