Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Satisfaction Pudding

1 teacup of butter 1 teacup of milk 1 teacup of golden syrup 1 teacup of preserved ginger chips 1 teaspoon carbonate soda 1 teacup of flour Warm the butter, syrup and milk together. When well mixed, sprinkle in enough flour to make a stiff batter. Add the ginger chips and soda last, and steam for about five hours.

For the Modern Kitchen

A steamed suet pudding with the suet swapped for butter, which is why it turns up in a meatless book. The recipe is written in teacups and contradicts itself on the flour, so read the method before you measure.

A Little History

Steamed puddings were a mainstay of British winter cookery, and many were bound with shredded beef suet -- which is the sort of problem a meatless cookery book sets out to solve, though butter- and bread-based puddings were long established alongside them. Substituting butter for suet would let a household keep the pudding course on days of abstinence or during wartime meat shortages. Golden syrup and jarred preserved ginger were both familiar grocer's goods by the turn of the century, much of the ginger arriving from China and Hong Kong in stoneware jars, and they gave a meatless pudding the richness and dark colour that suet would otherwise have supplied. The cheerful, faintly boastful name is of a kind that recurs in period pudding lists, though nothing is recorded about the origin of this one.

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