Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBeverages › Sherry or Brandy and Milk

Sherry or Brandy and Milk

1 cup fresh milk 1 tablespoon brandy or rum 3/4 teaspoon sugar Nutmeg Dash of salt Prepare as "Rum and Milk." Serve in a cold glass and add a grating of nutmeg on top.

For the Modern Kitchen

A single cold drink, essentially an unshaken milk punch. The title says sherry or brandy while the ingredient list says brandy or rum, which tells you the spirit is interchangeable at the maker's discretion.

A Little History

Spirits stirred into cold milk belonged to the sickroom as much as the bar. Nineteenth- and early twentieth-century domestic manuals routinely filed brandy and milk, rum and milk, and egg-and-wine drinks under invalid cookery or beverages, prescribing them for the convalescent, the sleepless and the exhausted on the reasoning that milk supplied nourishment while the alcohol acted as a stimulant and a way of getting the milk down. The same logic produced milk punch, which survives in New Orleans as a brunch drink and in Britain as a clarified curiosity. That such a drink appears in a book called Meatless Cookery is a reminder of what "meatless" meant in the period: not vegetarianism as a philosophy so much as a practical programme for replacing the nourishment of meat with milk, eggs, cheese, nuts and pulses, at a moment when meat was expensive and, within a few years, subject to wartime conservation campaigns.

← Rum and MilkCinnamon and Milk →