Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Salad (Dozen cucumbers small onions)

2 dozen cucumbers 6 small onions 6 tablespoons salt 1 gill olive oil 1 tablespoon celery seed 1 quart vinegar Cucumber salad should be made in large quantities, as it will keep indefinitely and is good to serve in emergencies. Peel and slice thin the cucumbers and onions; spread in layers; sprinkle with salt and let stand for several hours. Then drain. Mix the oil and celery seed; add the vinegar, drop by drop, and pour over the cucumbers and onions. Mix well; put into sterilized pint jars; seal and set away in a cool, dark place.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a raw, oil-dressed cucumber pickle sealed into jars and stored for months without any heat processing or measured acidity. It cannot be recommended today, and the reasons are worth spelling out.

A Little History

Cucumbers came into most nineteenth- and early twentieth-century kitchens in a glut and left in jars. A household with a garden row faced a fortnight of fruit ripening faster than anyone could eat it, and the standard answers were salting, vinegar and a cool cellar. The instruction here to make the salad "in large quantities" so that it is "good to serve in emergencies" describes the real function of a preserved-food shelf before domestic refrigeration: not luxury, but the ability to put something green on the table when an unexpected guest arrived in February. Preserving sections of this kind generally predate the safe-canning guidance that state agricultural extension services promoted from the First World War onward. Salting cucumbers to draw out water before dressing them is sound technique and still standard; the sealed jar and the cellar are what the intervening century has ruled out.

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