The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods

Ida Bailey Allen tells the story of American corn — Plymouth breakfasts to the Great War — and hangs a day's four meals on it, for the company that made Karo and Mazola.

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Cheese Omelet

Follow the directions for Plain Omelet, spreading one-half cup of grated American cheese over when it is put in the oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A one-line variation that depends entirely on the Plain Omelet it points back to, and on a habit modern cooks have largely abandoned: finishing the omelet in the oven rather than folding it on the burner.

A Little History

Late nineteenth and early twentieth century American cookbooks routinely treated the omelet as a partly baked dish rather than a purely stovetop one, and some drew a distinction between the French folded omelet and the puffed or "soufflé" omelet whose whites were beaten separately and whose top was set in the oven. The oven finish is often said to have suited coal and wood ranges, where a steady bottom heat was harder to control than the space above it, though this is more supposition than documented explanation. The cheese called for is a marker of its own moment: "American cheese" was still an honest description of factory cheddar made in the United States, a product that had been shipped in quantity since the mid-1800s, and only later became the name for a processed blend. Slipping a half cup of it over the eggs is a way to turn a plain omelet into something substantial without a second pan.

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